The AI-generated cat pictures thread
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
well it used to look like this:
Blue HU, Two Green gauges, and a Red AFR gauge.
So I coordinated. I thought about doing everything in LEDs, but it looked like a lot of effort to remove all the green from the cluster and other lights, so I said F it.
One thing, replacing the bulbs in the autometer gauges with LEDs bulb, you can actually read them at night.
Blue HU, Two Green gauges, and a Red AFR gauge.
So I coordinated. I thought about doing everything in LEDs, but it looked like a lot of effort to remove all the green from the cluster and other lights, so I said F it.
One thing, replacing the bulbs in the autometer gauges with LEDs bulb, you can actually read them at night.
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chesterfield, NJ
Posts: 6,898
Total Cats: 399
I agree on the 194 led replacement bulb for the autometer gauges, makes a big difference. I did that in my subaru as everything is LED, but the miata is still green sock over the incandescent bulbs. I'm trying to keep it looking early 90's, want to find a head unit that looks...early 90s. There's a very expensive marine one on crutchfield that looks ancient.
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
Ahh ok, how did you change the innovative gauge color?
I agree on the 194 led replacement bulb for the autometer gauges, makes a big difference. I did that in my subaru as everything is LED, but the miata is still green sock over the incandescent bulbs. I'm trying to keep it looking early 90's, want to find a head unit that looks...early 90s. There's a very expensive marine one on crutchfield that looks ancient.
I agree on the 194 led replacement bulb for the autometer gauges, makes a big difference. I did that in my subaru as everything is LED, but the miata is still green sock over the incandescent bulbs. I'm trying to keep it looking early 90's, want to find a head unit that looks...early 90s. There's a very expensive marine one on crutchfield that looks ancient.
I traded my red gauge with a blue one. I would have gone to a green DB gauge, but innovate wants WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY too much $$$ for them. It really doesn't add up. They sell that gauge for $90. I mean that's a joke. You can buy an Lc-1 kit with the gauge for $166, that suggests the LC-1 without gauge should be $76, which is $14 less than the simple *** gauge alone. But an LC-1 without gauge sells for about $150, so that also suggests the gauge is only worth $16. **** like that pisses me off.
Then I'd still have to deal with a blue HU and everything else green.
I thought about just removing the condoms on my gauge cluster and just didn't bother, as you still need to wipe off the green tint on the back of the gauges. then I didnt want to have a white cluster, green dash lights (like the dimmer and a/c and other controls) and the blue center. So at least I'm just green/blue now.
Cant win them all.
In my subaru I picked a HU that matches my interior lights perfectly:
The display matches the color of the oem display panel seen above (it looks a little blue in the pick, but in person it's a near perfect match) and the red buttons are a perfect match.
That fact that HU's in this day and age don't all have coloring matching LED displays is beyond me.
I traded my red gauge with a blue one. I would have gone to a green DB gauge, but innovate wants WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY too much $$$ for them. It really doesn't add up. They sell that gauge for $90. I mean that's a joke. You can buy an Lc-1 kit with the gauge for $166, that suggests the LC-1 without gauge should be $76, which is $14 less than the simple *** gauge alone. But an LC-1 without gauge sells for about $150, so that also suggests the gauge is only worth $16. **** like that pisses me off.
Then I'd still have to deal with a blue HU and everything else green.
I thought about just removing the condoms on my gauge cluster and just didn't bother, as you still need to wipe off the green tint on the back of the gauges. then I didnt want to have a white cluster, green dash lights (like the dimmer and a/c and other controls) and the blue center. So at least I'm just green/blue now.
Cant win them all.
In my subaru I picked a HU that matches my interior lights perfectly:
The display matches the color of the oem display panel seen above (it looks a little blue in the pick, but in person it's a near perfect match) and the red buttons are a perfect match.
That fact that HU's in this day and age don't all have coloring matching LED displays is beyond me.
Then I'd still have to deal with a blue HU and everything else green.
I thought about just removing the condoms on my gauge cluster and just didn't bother, as you still need to wipe off the green tint on the back of the gauges. then I didnt want to have a white cluster, green dash lights (like the dimmer and a/c and other controls) and the blue center. So at least I'm just green/blue now.
Cant win them all.
In my subaru I picked a HU that matches my interior lights perfectly:
The display matches the color of the oem display panel seen above (it looks a little blue in the pick, but in person it's a near perfect match) and the red buttons are a perfect match.
That fact that HU's in this day and age don't all have coloring matching LED displays is beyond me.
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
I don't have steering wheel controls, but IIRC, that HU has the ability. What I wish I could add back is the increased-volume-at-speed function. The rex has a lot of road noise that always requires me to turn the radio down at a stoplight.
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,046
Total Cats: 6,607
Some time back, SamNavy posted a few images of an X-47B taking off from the deck of a carrier for the first time, and noting that it would be a while yet before it attempted a carrier landing.
Now it's done:
Not sure if that first one was a deliberate T&G or if it boltered. Actually, looks like that was a three-wire trap just out of frame.
Since I do a lot of software reliability work, I can't help but visualize the scenario in which the drone makes a perfect landing, comes to a stop, releases the arresting cable, forgets to throttle down, and proceeds to drive itself right off the edge of the deck.
Now it's done:
Since I do a lot of software reliability work, I can't help but visualize the scenario in which the drone makes a perfect landing, comes to a stop, releases the arresting cable, forgets to throttle down, and proceeds to drive itself right off the edge of the deck.