The 18psi MS PNP-Pro questions thread (Attention DIYAutotune)
#41
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Well, yeah it does. And the jumper is enabled by default.
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
Launch control is not turned on in software by default.
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
Launch control is not turned on in software by default.
#43
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Well, yeah it does. And the jumper is enabled by default.
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
Launch control is not turned on in software by default.
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
Launch control is not turned on in software by default.
Not on this page? I can't figure out how you got to that page you linked.
#45
wait wait wait, so I still need to wire in a switch to 5w/5x to be able to use LC with the oem clutch switch?
I never wired in any switches, I just thought it would work when enabled just like rev/brain built ms3's I used before.
I think I see what Im missing now, sorry for confusion.
*Edit: and aidan, it looks like they're updating the documentation daily, cause I'm seeing new things on there every time I visit the site, and none of it is in my documentation that was provided with the MS unit.
I never wired in any switches, I just thought it would work when enabled just like rev/brain built ms3's I used before.
I think I see what Im missing now, sorry for confusion.
*Edit: and aidan, it looks like they're updating the documentation daily, cause I'm seeing new things on there every time I visit the site, and none of it is in my documentation that was provided with the MS unit.
#46
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Makes sense.
Testing your clutch switch is real easy too. Just check continuity to ground on the clutch switch pin (3l maybe?). Press the clutch and it should go to ground.
Testing your clutch switch is real easy too. Just check continuity to ground on the clutch switch pin (3l maybe?). Press the clutch and it should go to ground.
#50
According to that page Ben posted another switch needs to be wired in even when using the clutch switch.
And according to what Ben/Matt are saying the jumper should already be in the default oem clutch switch orientation.
Matt, I highly doubt my clutch switch is bad. Just like I highly doubted my oem AIT was bad (and it was fine, it was the MS settings that were way off). My car is 72k miles perfect condition CA car that was never modded before. I am 10000000% sure it's either the ms or the settings or I'm just confused.
The "evolving" documentation is really frustrating.....Is there a manual for this thing somewhere that goes into detail about ALL the options/features and not just getting the car to start on a base map and leaving the rest to figure out?
And according to what Ben/Matt are saying the jumper should already be in the default oem clutch switch orientation.
Matt, I highly doubt my clutch switch is bad. Just like I highly doubted my oem AIT was bad (and it was fine, it was the MS settings that were way off). My car is 72k miles perfect condition CA car that was never modded before. I am 10000000% sure it's either the ms or the settings or I'm just confused.
The "evolving" documentation is really frustrating.....Is there a manual for this thing somewhere that goes into detail about ALL the options/features and not just getting the car to start on a base map and leaving the rest to figure out?
#51
Bottom line: what exactly needs to be done to enable LC on my car with the OEM clutch switch?
IF the jumper is supposed to be set up for the OE clutch switch
and
If no other switch is needed if using the OE clutch switch
and
If it's literally going into TS and "enable LC", I've done it, and it doesn't work.
what do?
IF the jumper is supposed to be set up for the OE clutch switch
and
If no other switch is needed if using the OE clutch switch
and
If it's literally going into TS and "enable LC", I've done it, and it doesn't work.
what do?
#54
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If we had defective clutch switches, the car wouldn't start. It's the same switch for the starter interlock.
I've had a few units now that require extra wiring. It's something in the pinout, not the user's car.
I've had a few units now that require extra wiring. It's something in the pinout, not the user's car.
#55
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According to that page Ben posted another switch needs to be wired in even when using the clutch switch.
And according to what Ben/Matt are saying the jumper should already be in the default oem clutch switch orientation.
Matt, I highly doubt my clutch switch is bad. Just like I highly doubted my oem AIT was bad (and it was fine, it was the MS settings that were way off). My car is 72k miles perfect condition CA car that was never modded before. I am 10000000% sure it's either the ms or the settings or I'm just confused.
The "evolving" documentation is really frustrating.....Is there a manual for this thing somewhere that goes into detail about ALL the options/features and not just getting the car to start on a base map and leaving the rest to figure out?
And according to what Ben/Matt are saying the jumper should already be in the default oem clutch switch orientation.
Matt, I highly doubt my clutch switch is bad. Just like I highly doubted my oem AIT was bad (and it was fine, it was the MS settings that were way off). My car is 72k miles perfect condition CA car that was never modded before. I am 10000000% sure it's either the ms or the settings or I'm just confused.
The "evolving" documentation is really frustrating.....Is there a manual for this thing somewhere that goes into detail about ALL the options/features and not just getting the car to start on a base map and leaving the rest to figure out?
The documentation on the site did not change.
Do you see the flag at the bottom of tunerstudio called "Launch"? If launch control is turned on, it will turn green when you push the clutch pedal. Take a screen shot of your launch settings for me, please.
Note the 2 other Miatas in the parking lot at the end of the video. I tested this feature in all 3, among others.
Wrong. The starter interlock is an entirely different switch on the clutch pedal.
#58
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Yes,
Joe P posted up a good picture the other day. (Or did I just read it the other day)
From what I got, the green is the ECU switch, so its active right when you press the pedal a little bit, and the starter interlock switch is all the way at the bottom, hence the reason you have to push it all the way down to start it.
From here
Joe P posted up a good picture the other day. (Or did I just read it the other day)
From what I got, the green is the ECU switch, so its active right when you press the pedal a little bit, and the starter interlock switch is all the way at the bottom, hence the reason you have to push it all the way down to start it.
From here
#59
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So am I to understand that the MS now controls the speedometer? That's cool since it seems like Mazda put the wrong sensors with the wrong cars half the time. I'm guessing we mess with wheel diameter and # pulses per mile?
From here