The 18psi MS PNP-Pro questions thread (Attention DIYAutotune) - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 04-03-2015, 10:23 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Wooo. So the manual just didn't say that.
Well, yeah it does. And the jumper is enabled by default.
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com

Launch control is not turned on in software by default.
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Old 04-03-2015, 11:24 AM   #42
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I turned it on in the software and it doesn't work. So if it's not the jumper, then I have a defective unit?
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Old 04-03-2015, 11:30 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Well, yeah it does. And the jumper is enabled by default.
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com

Launch control is not turned on in software by default.
http://www.megasquirtpnp.com/docs/mspnp_gP_genInstall.php?isModel=2

Not on this page? I can't figure out how you got to that page you linked.
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Old 04-03-2015, 11:34 AM   #44
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I turned it on in the software and it doesn't work. So if it's not the jumper, then I have a defective unit?
More likely you have a defective clutch switch.
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Old 04-03-2015, 11:38 AM   #45
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wait wait wait, so I still need to wire in a switch to 5w/5x to be able to use LC with the oem clutch switch?
I never wired in any switches, I just thought it would work when enabled just like rev/brain built ms3's I used before.

I think I see what Im missing now, sorry for confusion.

*Edit: and aidan, it looks like they're updating the documentation daily, cause I'm seeing new things on there every time I visit the site, and none of it is in my documentation that was provided with the MS unit.
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Old 04-03-2015, 11:40 AM   #46
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Makes sense.

Testing your clutch switch is real easy too. Just check continuity to ground on the clutch switch pin (3l maybe?). Press the clutch and it should go to ground.
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Old 04-03-2015, 11:58 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
wait wait wait, so I still need to wire in a switch to 5w/5x to be able to use LC with the oem clutch switch?
I never wired in any switches, I just thought it would work when enabled just like rev/brain built ms3's I used before.
i wire "launch in" directly to the clutch switch.
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:00 PM   #48
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Nothing needs to be wired in. The jumper selects between the clutch switch or an external switch. So set the jumper and use the clutch switch.
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:06 PM   #49
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I'm just saying that on my patch harness I wire it directly--he has to make sure the jumpers are correct on his PNP-PRO unit.
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:07 PM   #50
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According to that page Ben posted another switch needs to be wired in even when using the clutch switch.
And according to what Ben/Matt are saying the jumper should already be in the default oem clutch switch orientation.

Matt, I highly doubt my clutch switch is bad. Just like I highly doubted my oem AIT was bad (and it was fine, it was the MS settings that were way off). My car is 72k miles perfect condition CA car that was never modded before. I am 10000000% sure it's either the ms or the settings or I'm just confused.

The "evolving" documentation is really frustrating.....Is there a manual for this thing somewhere that goes into detail about ALL the options/features and not just getting the car to start on a base map and leaving the rest to figure out?
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:55 PM   #51
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Bottom line: what exactly needs to be done to enable LC on my car with the OEM clutch switch?
IF the jumper is supposed to be set up for the OE clutch switch
and
If no other switch is needed if using the OE clutch switch
and
If it's literally going into TS and "enable LC", I've done it, and it doesn't work.

what do?
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Old 04-03-2015, 01:28 PM   #52
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From this to me it looks like you should just have to enable it. You could try and connect 5w and 5x. And test your clutch switch. If none of those work then I'm out.
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Old 04-03-2015, 02:00 PM   #53
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you have 5w and 5x jumpered?
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Old 04-03-2015, 05:50 PM   #54
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If we had defective clutch switches, the car wouldn't start. It's the same switch for the starter interlock.

I've had a few units now that require extra wiring. It's something in the pinout, not the user's car.
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Old 04-03-2015, 09:33 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
According to that page Ben posted another switch needs to be wired in even when using the clutch switch.
And according to what Ben/Matt are saying the jumper should already be in the default oem clutch switch orientation.

Matt, I highly doubt my clutch switch is bad. Just like I highly doubted my oem AIT was bad (and it was fine, it was the MS settings that were way off). My car is 72k miles perfect condition CA car that was never modded before. I am 10000000% sure it's either the ms or the settings or I'm just confused.

The "evolving" documentation is really frustrating.....Is there a manual for this thing somewhere that goes into detail about ALL the options/features and not just getting the car to start on a base map and leaving the rest to figure out?
No, you are mis-reading. If jumper J6 is enabled (which is default), your factory clutch switch will arm launch control. If you prefer a remote switch, remove J6 and wire per the directions.

The documentation on the site did not change.

Do you see the flag at the bottom of tunerstudio called "Launch"? If launch control is turned on, it will turn green when you push the clutch pedal. Take a screen shot of your launch settings for me, please.



Note the 2 other Miatas in the parking lot at the end of the video. I tested this feature in all 3, among others.



Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
If we had defective clutch switches, the car wouldn't start. It's the same switch for the starter interlock.

I've had a few units now that require extra wiring. It's something in the pinout, not the user's car.
Wrong. The starter interlock is an entirely different switch on the clutch pedal.
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Old 04-06-2015, 09:08 AM   #56
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Thanks Ben, will do.

I looked for that button on the bottom even before I made this thread, nothing illuminates with LC enabled and clutch pushed in, which is why I was so confused. I'll get screen shots tonight.
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Old 04-06-2015, 10:31 AM   #57
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Quote:
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Wrong. The starter interlock is an entirely different switch on the clutch pedal.
Interesting, so I'm assuming it's a simple on/off switch, easily checked for continuity?
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Old 04-06-2015, 11:49 AM   #58
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Yes,

Joe P posted up a good picture the other day. (Or did I just read it the other day)

From what I got, the green is the ECU switch, so its active right when you press the pedal a little bit, and the starter interlock switch is all the way at the bottom, hence the reason you have to push it all the way down to start it.



From here
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The 18psi MS PNP-Pro questions thread (Attention DIYAutotune)-f_clutchpedalm_ee01429.gif  
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Old 04-13-2015, 08:37 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I refuse to use the OEM o2 sensor wiring for wideband. there HAS to be a better way. every MS I've ever touched thus far has had an input for it
So my MSM project is finally up and running on the MSpro, I used an old O2 sensor plug to send the white wire from my AEM uego to the blue wire of the plug, it's an easy enough switch come emissions time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by linkless View Post
You will also want to setup the Vehicle speed to read correctly.
So am I to understand that the MS now controls the speedometer? That's cool since it seems like Mazda put the wrong sensors with the wrong cars half the time. I'm guessing we mess with wheel diameter and # pulses per mile?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Cramer View Post
As for questions 1 and 3, I will make sure the MSPNP install docs get updated to include how to do this. Just a minor oversight and we'll get it fixed now that you have brought it to our attention.
Speaking of things that can be fixed, VSS, under gear detection, it might be smart to plug in values. Default has 5 speed selected, and under the 6 speed menu, it has two over drive gears. All MSMs have the same 4.1 rear diff and 6 speed ratios. Maybe for the 01-05 mspro you could plug in the right values for 5 and 6 speeds too.

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Originally Posted by Matt Cramer View Post
VTCS is not supported as it's purely an emissions thing. If some form of masochism requires you to try this anyway, you may wire any of the unused high current or PWM outputs on the expansion connector to the VTCS solenoid.
So what is High Current Out 2? It's set to turn on at an RPM higher than 3700. Is that not VTCS now?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
2) is the OEM msm ait sensor calibration finally "finalized"[/B] and valid and values posted in the other thread are legitimate? If so, please confirm, if not please advise. I want to retain the OEM AIT2 sensor if possible.
[B]
What are these magical numbers from this magical thread? Please show link or values? Can't get mine off -21* after sending "Mazda" values.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
From here
Responding to this picture late, but oh well. I've always hooked up LC to the the red switch, which is why I said "if our switch was broken our cars wouldn't start", but am I to understand the default "LC" pin uses the upper/green/cruise control switch?
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Old 04-13-2015, 08:44 AM   #60
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Last question: I have my FIC injectors here, I'm assuming we use the 58psi/4.0bar fuel pressure setting of 831 for the returnless MSMs?
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