Making sure I got everything to MS
#1
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Making sure I got everything to MS
I finally decided to get a MS, and just want to make sure I'm getting all the extra parts I need for my setup. It's a '90 1.6L with Greddy turbo. I plan on completely replacing the PCM. I have A/C (or at least will if I can ever find the wiring harness for the new compressor) and plan to do EBC. Stock injectors and no variable TPS for now. I also have a PLX WBo2.
Here is what I THINK I need:
5x 1.0KQBK-ND (1k ohm .25W resistor) CAS
5x 620QBK-ND (620 ohm .25W resistor) Replace R19
1x ZTX688B-ND (NPN transistor) Replace Q4
1x 237F-ND (DB-37 female connector)
EBC:
1x IRLZ44ZPBF-ND (mosfet)
5x 100QBK-ND (100 ohm resistor)
5x 10KQBK-ND (10k ohm resistor)
I have wire/solder/heat shrink, is there anything I'm missing for my setup? Does the PLX need a resistor inline like some of the LC-1s?
Here is what I THINK I need:
5x 1.0KQBK-ND (1k ohm .25W resistor) CAS
5x 620QBK-ND (620 ohm .25W resistor) Replace R19
1x ZTX688B-ND (NPN transistor) Replace Q4
1x 237F-ND (DB-37 female connector)
EBC:
1x IRLZ44ZPBF-ND (mosfet)
5x 100QBK-ND (100 ohm resistor)
5x 10KQBK-ND (10k ohm resistor)
I have wire/solder/heat shrink, is there anything I'm missing for my setup? Does the PLX need a resistor inline like some of the LC-1s?
#4
Buy your parts from DIYautotune. Tell them what you want to do. They sell mod-kits with the appropriate components to do the mods you want. EBC, Spark and whatever else you might want including a 4bar MAP sensor. The rest of the things you might need you can get locally at a radioshack.
FWIW, i buy my heatshrink tubing from Lowes, they sell 5 packs of 1/8" tubing for less than $2. I also buy my bullet connectors there because they sell a 20 pack for less than $2 too. Radioshit rips you off for things like that. You can buy sockets and diodes there though, the usually have what i need.
FWIW, i buy my heatshrink tubing from Lowes, they sell 5 packs of 1/8" tubing for less than $2. I also buy my bullet connectors there because they sell a 20 pack for less than $2 too. Radioshit rips you off for things like that. You can buy sockets and diodes there though, the usually have what i need.
#5
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Buy your parts from DIYautotune. Tell them what you want to do. They sell mod-kits with the appropriate components to do the mods you want. EBC, Spark and whatever else you might want including a 4bar MAP sensor. The rest of the things you might need you can get locally at a radioshack.
FWIW, i buy my heatshrink tubing from Lowes, they sell 5 packs of 1/8" tubing for less than $2. I also buy my bullet connectors there because they sell a 20 pack for less than $2 too. Radioshit rips you off for things like that. You can buy sockets and diodes there though, the usually have what i need.
FWIW, i buy my heatshrink tubing from Lowes, they sell 5 packs of 1/8" tubing for less than $2. I also buy my bullet connectors there because they sell a 20 pack for less than $2 too. Radioshit rips you off for things like that. You can buy sockets and diodes there though, the usually have what i need.
#6
I haven't seen any of the tubing tear, works for me. Acutally i've never seen any tear.
Their MS kits come with a DB-37 connector so I don't see how it can be too expensive. The tip120 transistor requires you to solder 3 wires to an existing location on the board and you bolt the TIP to a spot on the heatsink that you leave open from the VR circuit or MSII.
You can see the TIP install here.
Their MS kits come with a DB-37 connector so I don't see how it can be too expensive. The tip120 transistor requires you to solder 3 wires to an existing location on the board and you bolt the TIP to a spot on the heatsink that you leave open from the VR circuit or MSII.
You can see the TIP install here.
#7
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Where can I get the boomslang connector for the harness? I can't seem to find just the connector anywhere. I want to make it plug n play. I went to boomslang and could only find a $100 cable, which is ridiculously overpriced.
#8
Do a search or contact Braineack, he builds PNP MS harnesses for the 1.6.
The connector itself is $20 plus shipping from Boomslang. Otherwise there is a website like webconnectors.com or something you can get them from cheaper. Try a search on the forum for pnp harness it should show up after a few tries.
The connector itself is $20 plus shipping from Boomslang. Otherwise there is a website like webconnectors.com or something you can get them from cheaper. Try a search on the forum for pnp harness it should show up after a few tries.
#9
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I bought the kit from diyautotune, so there's a female DB-37 in the box? If that's the case, then I can scratch that off the list. I just thought they gave you a DB-37 male that attaches to the board.
#10
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Do a search or contact Braineack, he builds PNP MS harnesses for the 1.6.
The connector itself is $20 plus shipping from Boomslang. Otherwise there is a website like webconnectors.com or something you can get them from cheaper. Try a search on the forum for pnp harness it should show up after a few tries.
The connector itself is $20 plus shipping from Boomslang. Otherwise there is a website like webconnectors.com or something you can get them from cheaper. Try a search on the forum for pnp harness it should show up after a few tries.
#11
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Their DB-37 connector is too expensive and they use the TIPS120 transistor. The one I'm getting is supposed to be a cleaner install. I'd rather just get the stuff I need from digikey. I already can get heatshrink from work, so that's not a big deal. Not a bad price for it at Lowes though. I'll have to keep that in mind if I run out. Is it good quality stuff that doesn't tear easily if it tightens too much?
The ZTX688B is a very clean install-- it drops right in where Q4 used to be. And it won't even burn out as long as you don't use it!
Really though, it's a decent solution, but it's not heat-sinked, and it gets VERY hot and it will burn out if you drive the idle valve hard. The TIP120 is a much better solution even though it's a bit more hassle to install.
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Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
#13
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Yes they give you a DB-37 connector to make your harness with it's part of the MS kit. I also recommend getting a GM IAT open element sensor, IAC mod kit, pullup resistor kit, EBC kit, and the 18" wire bundle because they are labeled nicely and it comes with a shielded ignition wire.
#14
The bundle i spoke of what $12, for 2' of color/label coded wire. It allows you to assemble the DB-37 without flags taped on. It's a convenience thing, not needed though of course.
When assembling your DB-37 don't skip on ground wires, use atleast 4, each to it's own seperate pins. 6 would be better.
When assembling your DB-37 don't skip on ground wires, use atleast 4, each to it's own seperate pins. 6 would be better.
#15
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The bundle i spoke of what $12, for 2' of color/label coded wire. It allows you to assemble the DB-37 without flags taped on. It's a convenience thing, not needed though of course.
When assembling your DB-37 don't skip on ground wires, use atleast 4, each to it's own seperate pins. 6 would be better.
When assembling your DB-37 don't skip on ground wires, use atleast 4, each to it's own seperate pins. 6 would be better.
#16
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OK, I have everything wired up for the most part and I have a few questions/concerns before I hook it up for the first time.
What ignition should I be using the shielded wire for? CKP or CMP? Or something entirely different?
Since I'm replacing my Miata PCM, what do I do with the fuel pump wire to make it as close to stock as possible and what's the best solution for the fan (and what extra crap do I need for it)? Is there anything else I'm going to need to do to completely remove the PCM? I have no A/C atm, so when I get that working is when I plan on getting the TPS.
I have the EBC mod installed, but don't have the solenoid yet. I want to get it working without boost first and then fix it for boost if nothing blows up. I also got the IAT sensor, but where's the best place to put it? Do I have to drill a hole in my intake for it?
Also, I need to unplug the coil pack before starting it for the first time, correct? Only after I set the ignition settings it's safe.
Any other worries I'm missing? I think I've covered everything, but I want to be completely sure.
What ignition should I be using the shielded wire for? CKP or CMP? Or something entirely different?
Since I'm replacing my Miata PCM, what do I do with the fuel pump wire to make it as close to stock as possible and what's the best solution for the fan (and what extra crap do I need for it)? Is there anything else I'm going to need to do to completely remove the PCM? I have no A/C atm, so when I get that working is when I plan on getting the TPS.
I have the EBC mod installed, but don't have the solenoid yet. I want to get it working without boost first and then fix it for boost if nothing blows up. I also got the IAT sensor, but where's the best place to put it? Do I have to drill a hole in my intake for it?
Also, I need to unplug the coil pack before starting it for the first time, correct? Only after I set the ignition settings it's safe.
Any other worries I'm missing? I think I've covered everything, but I want to be completely sure.