soloracer

iTrader: (10)

Waiting on my MS and want to order anything else I need today. Contemplating Knocksense, definitely buying the GM AIT for MAF removal and WANT to install the GM CLT as well but can't seem to find a good place / adapter to install. I really like Joe Perez' adapter but I can't exactly run out and buy one of those! Seems like most folks are using EasyTerm, I'd just prefer not to. Any good solutions?

My car is a 95, 1.8 w/ M45 S/C (hotside) - turbo to come next summer ....once I figure out all this MS stuff!

What do you guys think about tapping the dummy TB to mount the AIT until I go turbo?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

99% of the users here retain the stock CLT sensor.

soloracer

iTrader: (10)

The posts I've read on EasyTherm seem to indicate it's imprecise and a PITA. Are my impressions wrong?

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

yes

soloracer

iTrader: (10)

OK then! I'll go the tried and true route unless I discover a reason not to. Thanks!

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

the resistance value is know.

the only issue is when piggybacked, because you add bias resistors to the circuit. You can remove these, however, the stock bias is somewhat unknown. For a 90-93 I have them spot on. Since I don't have a 94-97 I cant tell you values that work the best. Seems like paul and others don't have issues.

mikeflys1

iTrader: (2)

I have mine cut into one of the heater core lines....i would have used the stock one but i already ran this one for when i was using an emanage.

soloracer

iTrader: (10)

That's just it, I AM going piggyback to keep A/C. Anybody have the values spot on for 94-95? How does one go about calibrating / figuring resistor values?

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Paul has them spot on. Do a search for his name and it will come up with a thread that has his values posted.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Even Joe Perez isn't using Joe Perez's adapter anymore. I built that thing for a dash gauge that turned out to be a POS, so I just linearized my stock gauge instead. It's still sitting there in the heater line, but it's not connected to anything.

I'm using the DIYAutotune PNP values for my standalone MS on the stock sensor. They seem to be accurate to within no more than +/- 10°F across the board (or at least down to 50°F anyway) and I'm quite happy with that. For the standalone 1.6 using the standard bias values, the numbers are:
; °F , Resistance
; -4, 16150
; 104, 1150
; 176, 330

For the 94-95, they show the following, which I'd guess is also damn near spot-on:
; °F, Resistance
; -4, 16150
; 104, 1150
; 176, 320

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

I'm been ******* with the piggy backed stock CLT for nearly a year and the bastard has never really worked right with the MS. It's spot one from 14*-55* then it get's stupid. I've tried all sorts of values and nothing seems to work. I ordered a CLT from trail tech and one of my vendors is making the M12 to M6 adapter so I can screw it into the water port next to my turbo oil feed line. Once I have it tested out I may offer these adapters to those interested in simplifying their parallel install.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Parallel Install Easier than Standalone.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

my values are spot on....CLT and MAT read within 5°F of each other in the mornings.

Keep the resistance scale as a constant, and change the bias. you dont need to reflash, just overwrite teh .inc files. open MT and see what the temps display. you shoudl be able to dial them in and have a value that others would surely appreciate. do this while the ait is hanging out in the open and have a thermometer near it to verify the temps...then adjust the CLT bias to get close to the AIT reading.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Yup, that's my gold standard. I assume that since the IAT sensor is a standard GM part whose characteristics are well known that it must be accurate. (I verified this with my lab-grade Fluke, and it is indeed spot-on.) Thus, if IAT and CLT match when the engine is at ambient temp, I assume CLT to be accurate, at least at that temperature.

Obviously it's possible for it to be accurate at on temperature and screwed up at another, but the fact that it typically reads in the range of 190°-200°F when fully warmed up jives with what I know the actual "normal" operating temperature of my engine to be, so I assume it to be accurate at that range as well.

soloracer

iTrader: (10)

Nope. If I had a semi-simple way to keep my A/C I'd PREFER standalone....

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

It wouldn't be too hard to work around the A/C problem. The issue for me is the OBD2 emissions testing.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

I've already covered A/C.
Here it is for the 1.6: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...7&postcount=13

And here it is for the NB: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...0&postcount=21

The 1.8 NA is about the same as the NB. Different pins, same concept.

soloracer

iTrader: (10)

Thanks Joe-
Can you help me out a little though? I'm not a complete electronics idiot. I've built circuits in the past and took electronic applications and theory courses in high school and early in college....but that's been a while!

I'm not sure of a couple things though...

what's the A/C Amplifier? What is meant by 'gate it'? How / why would you use transistors instead of relays?

This may be a little beyond me technically and a LOT beyond my motivation to build/sort!

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

What year is your car? (And why isn't it in your sig?)

soloracer

iTrader: (10)

My car is a 95.

I never bothered with a sig when I created my account b/c I never planned to get sucked in! Didn't figure I'd spend much time here....boy was I wrong...