duffbuster243

iTrader: (1)

Ok false alarm. It seems that my crank pulley has slipped on its rubber isolator, Time for a new one I guess.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

time for a 1.8L!

duffbuster243

iTrader: (1)

The 1.6 Is built with b6t connecting rods and 9.0:1 compression pistons. I don't plan on going 1.8 any time soon.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I'm upgrading a MS2 to MS3, decided to add the second opto just as a precaution, although this has been running fine on ms2 since 2008 with just the pull-up on js10.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I made a slight error when I built the circuit. I used the wrong hole for r49 so I was sending 5v to ground. I'll post new pics in a sec.

here's what I did:




syncs perfectly.

WestfieldMX5

Here's how I'm doing mine. FWIW

zipstrips

iTrader: (2)

thanks for putting some leg work for our Ms2's duff! cant wait to drive without that sync loss we have seen.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

It was because of you I tried doing it into a preexisting circuit, otherwise I'd have just done it on the proto.

I probably spent a good 2 minutes coming up with it and going gung-ho, I probably could have put more thought into it and made it cleaner, but i just didn't really care that much

WestfieldMX5

I probably have to much free time

duffbuster243

iTrader: (1)

I used one of these: Dual General-Purpose IC PC Board : PC Boards | RadioShack.com cut in half, and bolted it on to the bottom of the MS board using a previously unused hole in the heatsink.

JasonC SBB

Westfield, what are you trying to do with U7A? The majority of comparators' valid input range is VCC-1.5V. You are connecting its inverting input to VCC.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

mirroring the circuit above, for the ckp, using the same 4n25 as seen on u3 in the U7A spot.

WestfieldMX5

Like he said î
Same as Scott's, but in my drawing U3 goes in the lower 6 holes of the U7 location. Scott is using the upper holes.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

I know for a fact that Scott prefers the lower hole.

Zaphod

Dammit, now I spilled all the Coffee into my keyboard...

JasonC SBB

Are you using a comparator symbol to denote an opto?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

no? but I drove the car to work today.

Zhimin90

Reviving the dead. Im running into issues with cam signal disappearing while cold crank or driving at low rpm randomly. Seems like either I can do this for cheap or try a new cam sensor. The choice look pretty obvious.

The problem is I am running DIYPNP V1.53B board, so these pins don't apply to me. I couldn't find the schematic for the V1.53B board so its pretty hard to see what is going on. I read somewhere the cam signal is fed directly to the CPU with only pull a 5 volt pullup.

So, I am going to build this on the proto area completely. From what I read so far, I should be able to use this circuit and feed it into the VR2+ the cam input without the pullup to 5V attached to VR2+.

For your convenience. Here is the pin out for DIYPNP board for 95 miata which is what Im driving.
DIYPNP MegaSquirt installation for the Mazda Miata

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

youre having drop out on a DIYPNP?

post the composite log to prove it.

how did you do you pull ups?

Zhimin90

08.csv has dropout at 149/157
15.csv is at 112/153 and 58/153

I did the pull up according to the DIY PNP websites table for 94/95(VR2 to 470 resister pulled to 5v with R20 and r21 r39 open.