Ok false alarm. It seems that my crank pulley has slipped on its rubber isolator, Time for a new one I guess.

 

time for a 1.8L!

 

The 1.6 Is built with b6t connecting rods and 9.0:1 compression pistons. I don't plan on going 1.8 any time soon.

 

I'm upgrading a MS2 to MS3, decided to add the second opto just as a precaution, although this has been running fine on ms2 since 2008 with just the pull-up on js10.

 

I made a slight error when I built the circuit. I used the wrong hole for r49 so I was sending 5v to ground. I'll post new pics in a sec.

here's what I did:




syncs perfectly.

 

Here's how I'm doing mine. FWIW

 

thanks for putting some leg work for our Ms2's duff! cant wait to drive without that sync loss we have seen.

 

It was because of you I tried doing it into a preexisting circuit, otherwise I'd have just done it on the proto.

I probably spent a good 2 minutes coming up with it and going gung-ho, I probably could have put more thought into it and made it cleaner, but i just didn't really care that much

 

I probably have to much free time

 

I used one of these: Dual General-Purpose IC PC Board : PC Boards | RadioShack.com cut in half, and bolted it on to the bottom of the MS board using a previously unused hole in the heatsink.

 

Westfield, what are you trying to do with U7A? The majority of comparators' valid input range is VCC-1.5V. You are connecting its inverting input to VCC.

 

mirroring the circuit above, for the ckp, using the same 4n25 as seen on u3 in the U7A spot.

 

Like he said î
Same as Scott's, but in my drawing U3 goes in the lower 6 holes of the U7 location. Scott is using the upper holes.

 

I know for a fact that Scott prefers the lower hole.

 

Dammit, now I spilled all the Coffee into my keyboard...

 

Are you using a comparator symbol to denote an opto?

 

no? but I drove the car to work today.

 

Reviving the dead. Im running into issues with cam signal disappearing while cold crank or driving at low rpm randomly. Seems like either I can do this for cheap or try a new cam sensor. The choice look pretty obvious.

The problem is I am running DIYPNP V1.53B board, so these pins don't apply to me. I couldn't find the schematic for the V1.53B board so its pretty hard to see what is going on. I read somewhere the cam signal is fed directly to the CPU with only pull a 5 volt pullup.

So, I am going to build this on the proto area completely. From what I read so far, I should be able to use this circuit and feed it into the VR2+ the cam input without the pullup to 5V attached to VR2+.

For your convenience. Here is the pin out for DIYPNP board for 95 miata which is what Im driving.
DIYPNP MegaSquirt installation for the Mazda Miata

 

youre having drop out on a DIYPNP?

post the composite log to prove it.

how did you do you pull ups?

 

08.csv has dropout at 149/157
15.csv is at 112/153 and 58/153

I did the pull up according to the DIY PNP websites table for 94/95(VR2 to 470 resister pulled to 5v with R20 and r21 r39 open.