EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread (reposting stupid stuff without reading = warning)
#1284
So, one stud failed - well, the time-sert failed and that allowed the stud to move out. The other three are fine and were still tights.
I'm going to remove the time-sert and insert a new one, reseat the studs, drill through manifold and studs and insert dowel pins to lock them in place.
I'm going to remove the time-sert and insert a new one, reseat the studs, drill through manifold and studs and insert dowel pins to lock them in place.
Helical Thread Inserts: M10 x 1.5, 15.0mm (1.5xD) Length, Free Running, Inconel X750 (Package of 1)
Time-serts are just carbon steel, with the associated poor high temperature strength. http://www.timesert.com/html/12L14CarbonSteel.pdf
I just bought a couple of inconel inserts from the link above to fix the threads on my used Begi manifold.
#1286
I know I've seen these mentioned before but I'm going to throw them out there again. If you call an Infinity or Nissan dealership that isn't a TOTAL joke. Hopefully in tour area have a dealer that actually charges msrp and doesn't work on a pricing matrix you can ask for part #14434-V0301 and they should run about $3.50 a pop. they are inconcel bolts m8. I'm using them on my DP. You can find them cheaper online but the shipping makes them a little more.
#1287
I know I've seen these mentioned before but I'm going to throw them out there again. If you call an Infinity or Nissan dealership that isn't a TOTAL joke. Hopefully in tour area have a dealer that actually charges msrp and doesn't work on a pricing matrix you can ask for part #14434-V0301 and they should run about $3.50 a pop. they are inconcel bolts m8. I'm using them on my DP. You can find them cheaper online but the shipping makes them a little more.
Also found on the internet from dealer direct places for $2.50 each or less.
#1290
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFfn...ature=youtu.be
5k miles on standard BEGi studs.
I pray that TSE's kit works.
5k miles on standard BEGi studs.
I pray that TSE's kit works.
#1294
Wasn't sure whether to necro this thread or start a new one. Oh well, viva "EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread".
After breaking several studs on my FMII (usually at the most inopportune time), I finally replaced them with the FM inconel option, installed with Resbond. They worked well, until our local track opened up and I started running 10-12 track days a year. The studs still worked their way out through the nut and Stage 8 locker. I had them freshly refitted last summer and have had to tighten them after every event. Yesterday they loosened after two 20 minute sessions and this evening I found that two have broken (or, possibly, the thread in the manifold has stripped).
So, what are my options? I used the FM kit because they're plug 'n play. Is there room for TSE's 10 mm kit on a new-design FM manifold and a GT3071R turbo? Has anyone made it work?
After breaking several studs on my FMII (usually at the most inopportune time), I finally replaced them with the FM inconel option, installed with Resbond. They worked well, until our local track opened up and I started running 10-12 track days a year. The studs still worked their way out through the nut and Stage 8 locker. I had them freshly refitted last summer and have had to tighten them after every event. Yesterday they loosened after two 20 minute sessions and this evening I found that two have broken (or, possibly, the thread in the manifold has stripped).
So, what are my options? I used the FM kit because they're plug 'n play. Is there room for TSE's 10 mm kit on a new-design FM manifold and a GT3071R turbo? Has anyone made it work?
#1295
Lots of meat on a current FM manifold (these are 8s):
Plenty of room on the CHRA side of the manifold flange:
Not so on the downpipe side:
--Ian
#1296
Cpt. Slow
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I had to do some crazy modifications to the TSE studs to make them fit with my t25. As Andrew has said before, they were designed around large body turbos, not my t25.
I think I only used 3/4 of the locking hardware too.
I think I only used 3/4 of the locking hardware too.
#1298
I ran the TSE 10 mm studs on my FM11 manifold with the 2560 for several years before going to the 5558 Precision turbo. You just have to grind the flange on the stage 8 nuts down on a couple of them and modify the radius in the seating area slightly on the turbo flange in a couple spots where the radius is to big. Worked fine.