I used these to attach my little IHI to the manifold since there isn't room to tap to M10. I had to run a die on them because the shoulder was a little too thick but otherwise they are legit. The problem for the masses is M8 is too small for side mount turbos under race conditions.

 

Brain, its a stock image. They use the same image for the turbo to dp studs, and I know for a fact that those are different from the mani to turbo studs.

 

This seems like the place to ask this question, what's the best way to dissolve old resbond on studs? Polar/nonpolar solvent?

 

Maybe try some inconel Helicoils instead of a time-sert?

Helical Thread Inserts: M10 x 1.5, 15.0mm (1.5xD) Length, Free Running, Inconel X750 (Package of 1)

Time-serts are just carbon steel, with the associated poor high temperature strength. http://www.timesert.com/html/12L14CarbonSteel.pdf

I just bought a couple of inconel inserts from the link above to fix the threads on my used Begi manifold.

 

I used keyed inserts to fix my manifold. I have yet to put too many miles on the car since then So I don't know how the keyed insert will work with the inco studs on the track

 

I know I've seen these mentioned before but I'm going to throw them out there again. If you call an Infinity or Nissan dealership that isn't a TOTAL joke. Hopefully in tour area have a dealer that actually charges msrp and doesn't work on a pricing matrix you can ask for part #14434-V0301 and they should run about $3.50 a pop. they are inconcel bolts m8. I'm using them on my DP. You can find them cheaper online but the shipping makes them a little more.

 

Also found on the internet from dealer direct places for $2.50 each or less.

 

The only reason I can see to use M8 is if your application doesn't have the physical space to drill for M10. M10 does everything better except fit in tight places.

 

maybe so but for us non v-banders m8 is just fine for a down pipe.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFfn...ature=youtu.be

5k miles on standard BEGi studs.

I pray that TSE's kit works.

 

3 years, ~10k-15k miles (when I exactly installed them is a little fuzzy right now) and numerous autox events after I installed new studs from BelMetric with NordLok washers and everything is still tight and secure.

 

This thread doesn't apply to you.

 

iv fixed a begi manifold with inconel coils it all seems to be holding up. Its a little tricky on the begi manifold because at one of the corners there isnt much material to work with but it turned out just fine.

 

Wasn't sure whether to necro this thread or start a new one. Oh well, viva "EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread".

After breaking several studs on my FMII (usually at the most inopportune time), I finally replaced them with the FM inconel option, installed with Resbond. They worked well, until our local track opened up and I started running 10-12 track days a year. The studs still worked their way out through the nut and Stage 8 locker. I had them freshly refitted last summer and have had to tighten them after every event. Yesterday they loosened after two 20 minute sessions and this evening I found that two have broken (or, possibly, the thread in the manifold has stripped).

So, what are my options? I used the FM kit because they're plug 'n play. Is there room for TSE's 10 mm kit on a new-design FM manifold and a GT3071R turbo? Has anyone made it work?

 

I'm pretty sure the 10s would fit in the manifold. The turbo it depends on the design of your turbine housing -- there's no way they would have fit with the ATP v-band EWG housing that I have for my 2863 (the one for the FM2r), I can't even get the stage 8 nuts on two of the studs.

Lots of meat on a current FM manifold (these are 8s):


Plenty of room on the CHRA side of the manifold flange:


Not so on the downpipe side:


--Ian

 

I had to do some crazy modifications to the TSE studs to make them fit with my t25. As Andrew has said before, they were designed around large body turbos, not my t25.

I think I only used 3/4 of the locking hardware too.

 

I too am only using 3/4 of the locking hardware components on my T25.

 

I ran the TSE 10 mm studs on my FM11 manifold with the 2560 for several years before going to the 5558 Precision turbo. You just have to grind the flange on the stage 8 nuts down on a couple of them and modify the radius in the seating area slightly on the turbo flange in a couple spots where the radius is to big. Worked fine.

 

Thanks all. It turns out that I'm SOL, since TSE is out of stock on the studs and is looking for a new supplier. Unless someone has an unused (or good used) set they're willing to sell me, I'm going to have to go with another set of 8 mm FM pieces.

 

I just upgraded everything to TiAL with hope this doesn't happen again.