Laur3ns

World needs more OTS v-band kits...

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

I don't always build turbo manifolds, but when I do, I prefer dos Vbands.

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

This may or may not be the most retarded thing you guys have ever heard but is Resbond a realistic solution for this? As in the same Resbond the TSE stud crew uses?

curly

iTrader: (25)

I think after the first time they backed out he just went over kill. Resbond is easier to take apart and put back together for something like removing the turbo, but you hardly ever have a need to remove your CHRA, unless you've got an EFR turbo, so the more solid, physical locking device of the SS safety wire seems like the better choice.

Don't wanna speak for the man though.

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

It's just me being lazy. I know jack ---- about the process of safety wiring.

curly

iTrader: (25)

drill hole, twist wires. Done. Make sure to route it so if the bolt starts to loosen, it tightens the wires.

There's some special tools you can buy, but AFAIK, you don't need them. Basically pliers that clamp onto the wires, then the head spins so you can twist it without releasing the grip or twisting your hands.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Not on my car. It's not the dumbest thing I've ever heard, but close.

I put a mechanical lock on any bolt that vibrates and keeps expensive stuff working.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Get .032" Inco wire for the hot stuff, .032" SS wire for the stuff that doesn't get hot, and safety-wire pliars that spin both ways. Get it all from Skygeek.com, start watching vids on youtube.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

My vbandos gigantes bolt broke when trying to loosen the nut. I thought v-bands were supposed to be awesome.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

you probably overtorqued it. I know I broke a v-band stud from man-tightening it. v-bands don't need to be --------tight.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

^^ truth. Not really setup to take a torque.

I find it interesting that the Mitsu turbo used with the Greddy has a V-banded center section and bolted everything else.

BTW, twisting safety wire is kind of therapeutic. Like welding or drinking (but not as good as welding and drinking).

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

all the info i needed. I am forever in debt to you sir.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Check the edits, I mis-spoke on the wire thickness.

Some other recommendations are to drill each bolt more than once for whatever you're working on. I paid $100 for EDM drilling my Inco bolts, I would have paid more to get each bolt drilled more than once for ease of installation. Experiment with junk wire on the CHRA bolts so you learn the precise length. You twist the wire to prevent stretch; a neat and tidy wire job is effective while any one, single lazy mistake compromises everything.

I've safety-wired my turbo (CHRA on both sides) about 5x now and it usually takes me 2-3 attempts to get each wire-job right, it's very tight in there.

Examples:
Bad

Sloppy, but one is effective, I'd still ridicule him though

Very good

Good but wire is too thick to work right

The one wire job on the right is good, the rest are a waste of wire

I guess it will keep the WG from falling off

I need to do this

Probably the best one I've seen that's not on my car

Perfect:

You'll quickly find there is a large variance in execution in safety-wiring. One of the aircraft guys on this forum is a better source than me. It may be time to treat myself to a pair of multi-direction twisting pliars. Want my shitty single-direction twisters?

Edit:
I don't have $75 for reversible safety-wire pliers right now since I just bought safety gear. However, if you're interested, you want to pay $75 for them (rather than the $12 single-twist) because you want to do an excellent job on your safety-wiring which will garner the respect of moderators like myself, and because you will soon become obsessed with fail-safe safety-wiring and realize that it can save you tons and tons of money through prevention. "What if this bolt walked out? What about that bolt? Imagine if the drain plug fell out, or the oil filter?

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

mother of god.

this is why i love this forum.
Once I get my v-band stuff in a couple weeks this is on my long to do list.
I don't think my driving skills come anywhere close to yours, how many events were you doing before you realized this was an issue?

I was fast enough on street tires to make my downpipe completely remove itself from my turbo. But I have a feeling thats not hard to do. I also have mad boost creep which is why I'm going to v-bands/EWG, which I should have done first.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

This became an issue after 2 sessions I believe, then was fine until the middle of the next track day when it started making fire-engine noises. You need to do this now, before you drop $500 n a new CHRA.

You're going to love the "big boy parts".

hustler

iTrader: (6)

This is the best video I've seen. You don't need to go "aircraft style", but you get the point on how it works.

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

Yea, just read through all 14 pages of your CHRA bolts relaxing thread.

Hopefully my turbo already came with the inco bolts.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

If it doesn't, let me know and I'll talk to TiAL guy for you. $120 for the bolts I believe.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Do not go on track with out the chra bolts safety wired. I am a slow driver and I thought I would be OK without them. I killed my chra the second weekend I was out on track. Please do it before you even drive the setup.

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

I'm sad.

The second I get my setup I'm sending my bolts out to get drilled.