EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread (reposting stupid stuff without reading = warning) - Page 63 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 07-19-2012, 03:28 PM   #1241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
All this bolt ---- is so retarded, just buy god damned v-banding and never deal with any of this stuff again. I can R&R the turbo in ~15-minutes, less if someone helps me align the exhaust.
World needs more OTS v-band kits...
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Old 07-19-2012, 03:32 PM   #1242
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I don't always build turbo manifolds, but when I do, I prefer dos Vbands.
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Old 07-19-2012, 04:24 PM   #1243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Yes. I never jack with those, set it and forget it.
This may or may not be the most retarded thing you guys have ever heard but is Resbond a realistic solution for this? As in the same Resbond the TSE stud crew uses?
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Old 07-19-2012, 04:35 PM   #1244
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I think after the first time they backed out he just went over kill. Resbond is easier to take apart and put back together for something like removing the turbo, but you hardly ever have a need to remove your CHRA, unless you've got an EFR turbo, so the more solid, physical locking device of the SS safety wire seems like the better choice.

Don't wanna speak for the man though.
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Old 07-19-2012, 04:37 PM   #1245
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It's just me being lazy. I know jack ---- about the process of safety wiring.
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Old 07-19-2012, 04:43 PM   #1246
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drill hole, twist wires. Done. Make sure to route it so if the bolt starts to loosen, it tightens the wires.

There's some special tools you can buy, but AFAIK, you don't need them. Basically pliers that clamp onto the wires, then the head spins so you can twist it without releasing the grip or twisting your hands.
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Old 07-19-2012, 05:33 PM   #1247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinezA92 View Post
This may or may not be the most retarded thing you guys have ever heard but is Resbond a realistic solution for this? As in the same Resbond the TSE stud crew uses?
Not on my car. It's not the dumbest thing I've ever heard, but close.

I put a mechanical lock on any bolt that vibrates and keeps expensive stuff working.
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Old 07-19-2012, 05:37 PM   #1248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinezA92 View Post
It's just me being lazy. I know jack ---- about the process of safety wiring.
Get .032" Inco wire for the hot stuff, .032" SS wire for the stuff that doesn't get hot, and safety-wire pliars that spin both ways. Get it all from Skygeek.com, start watching vids on youtube.

Last edited by hustler; 07-20-2012 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 07-19-2012, 06:43 PM   #1249
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My vbandos gigantes bolt broke when trying to loosen the nut. I thought v-bands were supposed to be awesome.
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Old 07-19-2012, 06:46 PM   #1250
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you probably overtorqued it. I know I broke a v-band stud from man-tightening it. v-bands don't need to be --------tight.
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Old 07-19-2012, 06:59 PM   #1251
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^^ truth. Not really setup to take a torque.

I find it interesting that the Mitsu turbo used with the Greddy has a V-banded center section and bolted everything else.

BTW, twisting safety wire is kind of therapeutic. Like welding or drinking (but not as good as welding and drinking).
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:35 PM   #1252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Get .032" Inco wire for the hot stuff, .032" SS wire for the stuff that doesn't get hot, and safety-wire pliars that spin both ways. Get it all from Skygeek.com, start watching vids on youtube.
all the info i needed. I am forever in debt to you sir.

Last edited by hustler; 07-20-2012 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:51 PM   #1253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinezA92 View Post
all the info i needed. I am forever in debt to you sir.
Check the edits, I mis-spoke on the wire thickness.

Some other recommendations are to drill each bolt more than once for whatever you're working on. I paid $100 for EDM drilling my Inco bolts, I would have paid more to get each bolt drilled more than once for ease of installation. Experiment with junk wire on the CHRA bolts so you learn the precise length. You twist the wire to prevent stretch; a neat and tidy wire job is effective while any one, single lazy mistake compromises everything.

I've safety-wired my turbo (CHRA on both sides) about 5x now and it usually takes me 2-3 attempts to get each wire-job right, it's very tight in there.

Examples:
Bad

Sloppy, but one is effective, I'd still ridicule him though

Very good

Good but wire is too thick to work right

The one wire job on the right is good, the rest are a waste of wire

I guess it will keep the WG from falling off

I need to do this

Probably the best one I've seen that's not on my car

Perfect:

You'll quickly find there is a large variance in execution in safety-wiring. One of the aircraft guys on this forum is a better source than me. It may be time to treat myself to a pair of multi-direction twisting pliars. Want my shitty single-direction twisters?

Edit:
I don't have $75 for reversible safety-wire pliers right now since I just bought safety gear. However, if you're interested, you want to pay $75 for them (rather than the $12 single-twist) because you want to do an excellent job on your safety-wiring which will garner the respect of moderators like myself, and because you will soon become obsessed with fail-safe safety-wiring and realize that it can save you tons and tons of money through prevention. "What if this bolt walked out? What about that bolt? Imagine if the drain plug fell out, or the oil filter?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg SafetyWire2.JPG (72.8 KB, 219 views)
File Type: jpg 020_safetywire.jpg (215.7 KB, 221 views)
File Type: jpg CV_Safety_Wire.jpg (64.7 KB, 220 views)
File Type: jpg 20080206_governor2.jpg (75.9 KB, 219 views)
File Type: jpg DCP_9066.jpg (17.8 KB, 219 views)
File Type: jpg p3140200.jpg (69.2 KB, 221 views)
File Type: jpg 675-PREP-Safety-Wire-002.jpg (52.1 KB, 222 views)
File Type: jpg safetywire.jpg (78.8 KB, 218 views)
File Type: jpg 183992_952089253580_5711813_n.jpg (62.4 KB, 840 views)
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Old 07-20-2012, 01:33 PM   #1254
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mother of god.

this is why i love this forum.
Once I get my v-band stuff in a couple weeks this is on my long to do list.
I don't think my driving skills come anywhere close to yours, how many events were you doing before you realized this was an issue?

I was fast enough on street tires to make my downpipe completely remove itself from my turbo. But I have a feeling thats not hard to do. I also have mad boost creep which is why I'm going to v-bands/EWG, which I should have done first.
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:05 PM   #1255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinezA92 View Post
mother of god.

this is why i love this forum.
Once I get my v-band stuff in a couple weeks this is on my long to do list.
I don't think my driving skills come anywhere close to yours, how many events were you doing before you realized this was an issue?

I was fast enough on street tires to make my downpipe completely remove itself from my turbo. But I have a feeling thats not hard to do. I also have mad boost creep which is why I'm going to v-bands/EWG, which I should have done first.
This became an issue after 2 sessions I believe, then was fine until the middle of the next track day when it started making fire-engine noises. You need to do this now, before you drop $500 n a new CHRA.

You're going to love the "big boy parts".
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:13 PM   #1256
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This is the best video I've seen. You don't need to go "aircraft style", but you get the point on how it works.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:05 PM   #1257
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Yea, just read through all 14 pages of your CHRA bolts relaxing thread.

Hopefully my turbo already came with the inco bolts.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:09 PM   #1258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinezA92 View Post
Yea, just read through all 14 pages of your CHRA bolts relaxing thread.

Hopefully my turbo already came with the inco bolts.
If it doesn't, let me know and I'll talk to TiAL guy for you. $120 for the bolts I believe.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:13 PM   #1259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinezA92 View Post
mother of god.

this is why i love this forum.
Once I get my v-band stuff in a couple weeks this is on my long to do list.
I don't think my driving skills come anywhere close to yours, how many events were you doing before you realized this was an issue?

I was fast enough on street tires to make my downpipe completely remove itself from my turbo. But I have a feeling thats not hard to do. I also have mad boost creep which is why I'm going to v-bands/EWG, which I should have done first.
Do not go on track with out the chra bolts safety wired. I am a slow driver and I thought I would be OK without them. I killed my chra the second weekend I was out on track. Please do it before you even drive the setup.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:03 PM   #1260
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I'm sad.

The second I get my setup I'm sending my bolts out to get drilled.
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