Nicked my pickup tube - OK?
#43
I don't get the aversion to dropping the subframe to get to the pan. I've pulled/swapped a motor and have pulled the subframe. To me the latter is the way to go. Remove the lower shock bolts, calipers, unbolt the steering rack, then it's 8 bolts and you're staring at the pan.
You have two metal pieces, two rubber pieces and a whole lot of RTV to get just right. This after cleaning the entire area to get a good RTV seal. It is so much better to do it with the engine upside down at waist height.
#44
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 782
Total Cats: 4
I don't get the aversion to dropping the subframe to get to the pan. I've pulled/swapped a motor and have pulled the subframe. To me the latter is the way to go. Remove the lower shock bolts, calipers, unbolt the steering rack, then it's 8 bolts and you're staring at the pan.
Working space - It's probably only 18-20" off the ground and I can't get it higher.
Oil dripping in my face while I'm trying to work on it.
#45
I don't get the aversion to dropping the subframe to get to the pan. I've pulled/swapped a motor and have pulled the subframe. To me the latter is the way to go. Remove the lower shock bolts, calipers, unbolt the steering rack, then it's 8 bolts and you're staring at the pan.
Un bolt the engine mounts, subframe bolts and shock tower bolts. Don forget to take the brake calipers off and hang them somewhere.
Then drop the subframe and with the car on 4 jack stands, and two jack stands supporting the transmission/engine, unbolt the pan and fix you mistake.
easiest way to do it since you don't have to undo any fuel or wires.
#47
If I had to do it over again I think I'd pull the motor, though. It might take a bit longer, but it'll save time and effort on the rest of the turbo install (especially if you're going to do a coolant reroute).
If you do wind up taking the oil pan off, then take the opportunity to install the drain fitting farther back, between the accessories and the motor mount. You can't drill this with it in the car (subframe is in the way), but it gives a much straighter shot for the oil line. You will need a 45-degree NPT fitting, though. Like this:
--Ian
#49
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 782
Total Cats: 4
........
If I had to do it over again I think I'd pull the motor, though. It might take a bit longer, but it'll save time and effort on the rest of the turbo install (especially if you're going to do a coolant reroute).
If you do wind up taking the oil pan off, then take the opportunity to install the drain fitting farther back, between the accessories and the motor mount. You can't drill this with it in the car (subframe is in the way), but it gives a much straighter shot for the oil line. You will need a 45-degree NPT fitting, though.
--Ian
If I had to do it over again I think I'd pull the motor, though. It might take a bit longer, but it'll save time and effort on the rest of the turbo install (especially if you're going to do a coolant reroute).
If you do wind up taking the oil pan off, then take the opportunity to install the drain fitting farther back, between the accessories and the motor mount. You can't drill this with it in the car (subframe is in the way), but it gives a much straighter shot for the oil line. You will need a 45-degree NPT fitting, though.
--Ian
Good
-Because of all the work I'm doing at once, I have the engine nearly ready to come out anyhow. I should just be able to disconnect the PPF, speedo cable, transmission wiring, grounds and a couple electrical connectors; unbolt the engine mounts, and go.
Bad
-I already installed the coolant reroute, clutch, injectors, rear main seal, and just put the transmission back in!
-Already have a hole in the oil pan. I'd like to move the drain back but doesn't seem crucial enough to warrant buying a new pan. This and I already own the FM hard drain line.
As I've said before. The biggest thing I've learned from this is that the easiest way to install a new turbo system is to pull the engine....assuming a clutch is part of the deal.
#50
I wouldn't take the motor out JUST to put the hole further back, but if you do have it out for some reason then it's a better way to route than the line.
--Ian
#51
When the pan is off you can get hall the metal shavings out of it as well. Your experience is why you should always pull the pan, which for most, means you should always pull the engine. But that topic has been beat to death.
Now you know you have a problem so there is no reason not to pull the pan.
Now you know you have a problem so there is no reason not to pull the pan.
#52
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 782
Total Cats: 4
Bah - It would have been fine if I had paid as much attention tapping as I did drilling. I agree that pulling the engine is easier if you are doing a clutch, too. Otherwise, careful, well-greased tools yield fine results.
I'll take a pic when I'm in there to show how much metal remained. I didn't do any flushing, since I fubared it anyhow. I bet it isn't all that bad.
I'll take a pic when I'm in there to show how much metal remained. I didn't do any flushing, since I fubared it anyhow. I bet it isn't all that bad.
#53
Bah - It would have been fine if I had paid as much attention tapping as I did drilling. I agree that pulling the engine is easier if you are doing a clutch, too. Otherwise, careful, well-greased tools yield fine results.
I'll take a pic when I'm in there to show how much metal remained. I didn't do any flushing, since I fubared it anyhow. I bet it isn't all that bad.
I'll take a pic when I'm in there to show how much metal remained. I didn't do any flushing, since I fubared it anyhow. I bet it isn't all that bad.
#55
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 782
Total Cats: 4
Well, I got the pan off. It was shockingly dirty in there though and the shavings that were there just looked like little clumps covered in dark oil. They were insufficient in number for me to worry about if I ever did this on another car. I never flushed the pan or anything and there just wasn't much there. What was there would not have made it through the screen.
I've changed the oil every 5k with Penn Platinum, and the previous owner claims 3k OCIs with M1. Dunno, but somebody somewhere must have gone longer because it took a good bit of scrubbing with simple green and a power washer to make it look good in there.
I've changed the oil every 5k with Penn Platinum, and the previous owner claims 3k OCIs with M1. Dunno, but somebody somewhere must have gone longer because it took a good bit of scrubbing with simple green and a power washer to make it look good in there.
#56
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 782
Total Cats: 4
Latest update
So I pulled the engine and discovered that I could pretty likely have driven the car with the pickup tube the way it was. No hole, and seems really solid, even where the scar is.
I'm glad I pulled it anyway. I now have peace of mind, and it gave me the opportunity to really clean up the bay. Actually the fiancee cleaned it up / de-greased everything and painted the lower half of the master cylinder where some previous owner allowed fluid to drip on it. She painted the tab that I had to cut for turbo clearance, too. I think I'll hang onto this one. :-)
I'm glad I pulled it anyway. I now have peace of mind, and it gave me the opportunity to really clean up the bay. Actually the fiancee cleaned it up / de-greased everything and painted the lower half of the master cylinder where some previous owner allowed fluid to drip on it. She painted the tab that I had to cut for turbo clearance, too. I think I'll hang onto this one. :-)