OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

i took the car out for a drive around the block today. love the QR and the new closer position. much tighter then the Joes racing one i had before.

Dunning Kruger Affect

I have the NRG 3.0 with a Momo Competition. It looks ridiculous, but I have zero issues getting leverage on the bat wings to GTFO if I have to.

The one thing that is nice about moving the steering wheel closer to you is that you'll never look like a dunce hitting the turn signal/flash to pass/windshield wipers when you get sideways.

cyotani

iTrader: (8)

My issues is not having knee space to heel toe. I'm 6'2" and my knee is against the wheel in my current set up. I'm hoping the addition of a QR will space out the wheel enough.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

IMO the 2.5 wings are nice. The 3.0 just seems silly. And if you're that hard up for knee room then you're probably also at risk to turning the car off. I had an instructor drive my car last weekend, he through he broke everything because the car died, but I knew that when the power steering also cutout that he probably just kneed the key (which has no key ring on it).

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

haha, you must have been watching my videos recently...

hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

I use a Snap-Off quick release. I love it, no slop, goes on one way only, and is easy to get on and off the car.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

^ do they have a fail safe? if the spring mechanism fails, is there any way to keep control of the car?

calteg

iTrader: (18)

This.
Not sure if the answer is flat bottom wheel or spacing the wheel closer to me. Or both.
This thread needs more pics

cyotani

iTrader: (8)

It's annoying as hell. I don't want to spend money on something that might work and find out I still have an issue.

Right now I have a 350mm wheel spaced out very far to a slightly uncomfortable driving position to barely get enough clearance to heel toe.

I want to try this wheel which is 320mm flat bottom and measures 290mm top to bottom which should free about about an inch of space bellow the bottom of the wheel. I hope I can use this and move the wheel back some.

PatCleary

Yup, for shoving a bunch of leg under the dash, a flat bottom is nice. Hasn't been entirely necessary yet, but it's nice.

Another vote for the NRG setup here. Although I probably won't buy another wheel from them as they're a little flexy. If you do use an NRG wheel (or any really) Loctite your hardware in place. A buddy had a good time driving with a loose wheel.

Thanks for the heads up on removing the locking pin, I've been concerned about that being an issue in an emergency. Any reason to believe there's a need for it to be there?

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

The locking pin would be to prevent unnecessary removal of the quick disconnect. the reason i don't like NR-g is that it's made with ball bearings. once that collar is removed there is no fail safe. if the internal spring failed you could lose all control. With a standard Splined Quick release you won't have that problem.

that's why i was asking about the snap off hub. if it does have a fail safe it might be a better option.

hingstonwm

iTrader: (2)

No, there does not appear to be a fail safe other than the 2 locking pins, if 1 spring fails the other is still in place, the wheel can't be removed with 1 pin engaged. I have never given it a second thought, and won't start now. May not be the flavor that some like but I am comfortable with it.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

I only ask because if the spring of the nrg hub fails you lose all steering. literally no control. a very frighting thought at 100mph. also a terrible way to wright off a chassis, because of a $.05 spring.

I'm looking at the "snap off" and i see two tabs on the hub. if the spring fails could you still have some control with the tabs? i'm not saying it's junk, i'm genuinely curious.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

The likelihood that the spring fails in the NRG is extremely small. The possibility that it would fail in a static state (IE just sitting connected on the car, not being taken off or put on) is astronomically small. And even if it were to fail the design requires an external force to pull up on the ring for it to move off, the force of the ***** pushing out cannot push the ring off and even if it could the locking pin would keep it from coming off enough for you to loose steering.

MiataGarage

I've got a Sparco Snap Off ,Momo Hub and a Cheap Ebay deep dish Steering Wheel at the Moment
Nothing to complain about this Combi so far, except the Steering Wheel which bends easily
I like the closer Position

1cockyz

I have the snap off hub. There are 3 dowels on the face that slide into corresponding holes in the back of the "hub" much the same way a pressure plate aligns to a flywheel. The 2 pins then secure the 2 pieces together. If the 2 retaining pins fail then just keep the hub pushed forward and it will ride on the 3 dowel pins. This is the same hub used on some factory Lambo race car and also Lotus Exige Cup factory race cars. The use by OEMs of that stature kind of sold me. The only issue I have found is the use of the hub on very cold days there is a very small bit of play due to the dowels being steel and the hub being aluminum. I have the street version of it and was able to use a common horn push with the contact bent out a little and the horn works as well. I also "lubed" the retaining pins with key cylinder graphite dry lube and it works incredibly smooth.

tyhackman15

The answer for me was a 280mm MOMO wheel. I had a 350 flat bottom and that didn't help, well, because you turn the wheel and then it hits your leg lol.

With the 280mm I have plenty of leg room. No more leg / hand interference in autox or at the track. Oh and it adds some nice weight to the steering effort, which I prefer.

btabor

iTrader: (3)

There is a grant wheel on ebay that I like but it needs a 1/2" grant to momo adapter plus a momo hub to fit in my miata. It also has a 3.75" dish. Would that make it too close to me? Im 6' long arms and using a sparco sprint all the way towards to fuel tank.

Failure

Stock steering wheel is almost exactly 5" from clock spring to wheel face. No idea how deep the Momo hub is, but the NRG short hub (which uses the same bolt pattern) is 1.25". Using that and your numbers, that setup would sit about half an inch closer to you than stock. Probably a hair more than that since I'm guessing the wheel's dish is measured to the centerline and not the face.

Sounds like you're sitting really far back though, so you'll probably be fine unless your name is Phelps.

btabor

iTrader: (3)

Sounds good. I think I'll buy that grand wheel with a grant mazda adapter (about 1" long) and a 1.5 or 2" extension. I want the wheel 1 inch closer to me than stock.