Cannot get transmission spline onto clutch
#1
Cannot get transmission spline onto clutch
Hi - I recently removed the transmission from my 99 miata. I cannot seem to get the transmission back onto the clutch correctly.
I am using three floor jacks - 1 for the front of the transmission, one for the rear of the transmission, and one to rotate the engine block downwards to match the angle.
Any suggestions? Any tips?
I have the transmission in neutral, and I have tried rotating the flywheel some. I did use an alignment tool and did check it again.
When I checked it, the alignment tool was able to go back into the pilot bearing, but I could not spin the clutch. This should make sense, since the default position of the clutch is connected.
Suggestions, please.
Thanks!
I am using three floor jacks - 1 for the front of the transmission, one for the rear of the transmission, and one to rotate the engine block downwards to match the angle.
Any suggestions? Any tips?
I have the transmission in neutral, and I have tried rotating the flywheel some. I did use an alignment tool and did check it again.
When I checked it, the alignment tool was able to go back into the pilot bearing, but I could not spin the clutch. This should make sense, since the default position of the clutch is connected.
Suggestions, please.
Thanks!
#6
Thanks all - I have been screwing with this for HOURS and HOURS. Different orientations of jacks, trying to get two screws started, trying to get a c-clamp on to jack the transmission in.
I really think that the alignment is insufficient, as the transmission always seems to stop at the spline shoulder, I think.
On miata.net, one member was talking about using a 2x4 to support the transmission tail through the shifter hole, using a motorcycle ratcheting strap.
Please forward any info ion the "nice" alignment tool.
Thanks!
I really think that the alignment is insufficient, as the transmission always seems to stop at the spline shoulder, I think.
On miata.net, one member was talking about using a 2x4 to support the transmission tail through the shifter hole, using a motorcycle ratcheting strap.
Please forward any info ion the "nice" alignment tool.
Thanks!
#11
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But yes, that's what I do with the jack otherwise the trans hits the floor pan and wont line up so +1 on that.
Last edited by lordrigamus; 07-10-2010 at 08:57 PM.
#12
After you get done resetting the clutch disc alignment...
1) Get a friend to watch the bellhousing to engine interface... has to be dead square both horizontally and vertically for the gearbox to go on easily... and it's damn hard to watch it yourself while doing..
2) Put the trans in gear, stuff the driveshaft in and rotate the trans... way easier than trying to rotate the engine, plus has the advantage of telling you if the splines are engaged in the clutch or not.
1) Get a friend to watch the bellhousing to engine interface... has to be dead square both horizontally and vertically for the gearbox to go on easily... and it's damn hard to watch it yourself while doing..
2) Put the trans in gear, stuff the driveshaft in and rotate the trans... way easier than trying to rotate the engine, plus has the advantage of telling you if the splines are engaged in the clutch or not.
#13
It's just like everyone's saying, it takes a little wiggling, once you confirm the clutch's alignment.
I just did a 6sp swap (and was surprised to find a spanking new clutch) I successfully used 2 jacks under the trans that got it within 1/2" or so of on but perfectly aligned.
Then use your hands as c clamps to get it the rest of the way. Don't actually clamp it as you may damage splines if not properly lined up.
Initially I foolishly tried bench pressing it into place. I had it so close (2/3") but couldn't get it dead on, don't do this it's exhausting and futile.
I just did a 6sp swap (and was surprised to find a spanking new clutch) I successfully used 2 jacks under the trans that got it within 1/2" or so of on but perfectly aligned.
Then use your hands as c clamps to get it the rest of the way. Don't actually clamp it as you may damage splines if not properly lined up.
Initially I foolishly tried bench pressing it into place. I had it so close (2/3") but couldn't get it dead on, don't do this it's exhausting and futile.
#14
Thanks all - taking the tranny back out to realign the clutch is disheartening, because it is carefully balanced on the jacks, and is top heavy, so it likes to roll.
Since the transmission is close at the moment, I am considering starting by verifying bell housing to block alignment, putting in gear and rotating the output shaft, just to see if I can get lucky.
After inserting the alignment tool, and tightening the housing bolts, is there a way to visually confirm correct spline to pilot bearing alignment?
I definitely do not want to do this 3 times with the same result.
How do I know that I really have the alignment set correctly?
Because I can insert the tool back into the clutch now, how do I even know that I have the alignment wrong [other than I can't get the stupid transmission in]??
Thanks for the info
Since the transmission is close at the moment, I am considering starting by verifying bell housing to block alignment, putting in gear and rotating the output shaft, just to see if I can get lucky.
After inserting the alignment tool, and tightening the housing bolts, is there a way to visually confirm correct spline to pilot bearing alignment?
I definitely do not want to do this 3 times with the same result.
How do I know that I really have the alignment set correctly?
Because I can insert the tool back into the clutch now, how do I even know that I have the alignment wrong [other than I can't get the stupid transmission in]??
Thanks for the info
#15
I normally put the alignment tool in place and make sure that it moves about the same in every direction to show that it is centered.
If you have a way to rotate the output shaft, that should work as well as turning the engine.
You can use the PPF bolts in the two bottom holes of the transmission to help hold it in alignment and steady it.
If you have a way to rotate the output shaft, that should work as well as turning the engine.
You can use the PPF bolts in the two bottom holes of the transmission to help hold it in alignment and steady it.