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Old 07-10-2010, 05:42 PM   #1
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Default Cannot get transmission spline onto clutch

Hi - I recently removed the transmission from my 99 miata. I cannot seem to get the transmission back onto the clutch correctly.

I am using three floor jacks - 1 for the front of the transmission, one for the rear of the transmission, and one to rotate the engine block downwards to match the angle.

Any suggestions? Any tips?

I have the transmission in neutral, and I have tried rotating the flywheel some. I did use an alignment tool and did check it again.

When I checked it, the alignment tool was able to go back into the pilot bearing, but I could not spin the clutch. This should make sense, since the default position of the clutch is connected.

Suggestions, please.

Thanks!
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Old 07-10-2010, 06:09 PM   #2
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Make sure to tilt the engine as far forward as humanly possible. Other then that it is just keep wiggling it around tell it slides in.
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Old 07-10-2010, 06:11 PM   #3
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Put the transmission in gear and pull the spark plugs out of the engine. Have someone rotate the crank with a wrench on the crank bolt while pushing the engine in place.
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Old 07-10-2010, 06:25 PM   #4
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The clutch alignment tool has a lot of slop.

I was careful to make sure the clutch disc was near the middle of said slop when tightening the clutch cover. This may be your problem.
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Old 07-10-2010, 06:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
The clutch alignment tool has a lot of slop.

I was careful to make sure the clutch disc was near the middle of said slop when tightening the clutch cover. This may be your problem.
This.

I know it sucks, but realign the clutch. They make quality tools for this that get it right, and they're almost worth the cost.

I fought my first one for over an hour before my uncle (mechanic) came over with a real aligment tool...tranny was in 3 min later.
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:12 PM   #6
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Thanks all - I have been screwing with this for HOURS and HOURS. Different orientations of jacks, trying to get two screws started, trying to get a c-clamp on to jack the transmission in.

I really think that the alignment is insufficient, as the transmission always seems to stop at the spline shoulder, I think.

On miata.net, one member was talking about using a 2x4 to support the transmission tail through the shifter hole, using a motorcycle ratcheting strap.

Please forward any info ion the "nice" alignment tool.

Thanks!
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
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make sure to tilt the engine as far backward as humanly possible. Other then that it is just keep wiggling it around tell it slides in.
ftfy!
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:21 PM   #8
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In for info on the nice alignment tool aswell...
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
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ftfy!
I guess it matters on how your looking at the car. What I mean to say it you want to put a jack under the front of the oil pan in from of the steering rack. Then jack it as high as possible so the backend of the engine points down.
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Old 07-10-2010, 08:24 PM   #10
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i had to use a piece of wood and a floor jack on the front of my oil pan to tilt the engine back. When you remove the transmission it really tends to rock forward and you need to rock it back to get it to slide in to place. Or atleast i did.
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Old 07-10-2010, 09:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
I guess it matters on how your looking at the car. What I mean to say it you want to put a jack under the front of the oil pan in from of the steering rack. Then jack it as high as possible so the backend of the engine points down.
Not really, forward is always on the front no matter how you look at it and vice versa.

But yes, that's what I do with the jack otherwise the trans hits the floor pan and wont line up so +1 on that.

Last edited by lordrigamus; 07-10-2010 at 09:57 PM.
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Old 07-11-2010, 12:08 AM   #12
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After you get done resetting the clutch disc alignment...

1) Get a friend to watch the bellhousing to engine interface... has to be dead square both horizontally and vertically for the gearbox to go on easily... and it's damn hard to watch it yourself while doing..

2) Put the trans in gear, stuff the driveshaft in and rotate the trans... way easier than trying to rotate the engine, plus has the advantage of telling you if the splines are engaged in the clutch or not.
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Old 07-11-2010, 10:29 AM   #13
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It's just like everyone's saying, it takes a little wiggling, once you confirm the clutch's alignment.

I just did a 6sp swap (and was surprised to find a spanking new clutch) I successfully used 2 jacks under the trans that got it within 1/2" or so of on but perfectly aligned.

Then use your hands as c clamps to get it the rest of the way. Don't actually clamp it as you may damage splines if not properly lined up.

Initially I foolishly tried bench pressing it into place. I had it so close (2/3") but couldn't get it dead on, don't do this it's exhausting and futile.
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Old 07-11-2010, 11:51 AM   #14
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Thanks all - taking the tranny back out to realign the clutch is disheartening, because it is carefully balanced on the jacks, and is top heavy, so it likes to roll.

Since the transmission is close at the moment, I am considering starting by verifying bell housing to block alignment, putting in gear and rotating the output shaft, just to see if I can get lucky.

After inserting the alignment tool, and tightening the housing bolts, is there a way to visually confirm correct spline to pilot bearing alignment?

I definitely do not want to do this 3 times with the same result.

How do I know that I really have the alignment set correctly?

Because I can insert the tool back into the clutch now, how do I even know that I have the alignment wrong [other than I can't get the stupid transmission in]??

Thanks for the info
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Old 07-11-2010, 01:15 PM   #15
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I normally put the alignment tool in place and make sure that it moves about the same in every direction to show that it is centered.

If you have a way to rotate the output shaft, that should work as well as turning the engine.

You can use the PPF bolts in the two bottom holes of the transmission to help hold it in alignment and steady it.
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Old 07-11-2010, 11:33 PM   #16
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imo put a few long ones in on the bottom for alignment and then start tourqeing on the top first.
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Old 07-11-2010, 11:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
imo put a few long ones in on the bottom for alignment and then start tourqeing on the top first.
All I got out of that at first glance was "Put a few long ones in the bottom and start tounging the top"
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Old 07-12-2010, 12:37 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Other then that it is just keep wiggling it around tell it slides in.
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:36 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rider384 View Post
All I got out of that at first glance was "Put a few long ones in the bottom and start tounging the top"
do you do it any differently?
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Old 07-12-2010, 04:54 AM   #20
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Post a WTB thread for a dead 5spd input shaft. Best alignment tool evar.
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