We need to make a thread for this stuff

My buddy (Tw34k on here) is very experienced with both electronics and honda tuning, so he and I may be able to figure out if the honda ecu can accept a trigger wheel or CAS input.
We just have to figure out how what the honda dizzy reads.

Even if you could only get the honda ecu to control fuel, it would still give a lot of tune-ability.

 

I wish I wasn't so tied up in my current projects...and I had an extra miata. I would love to get one running on a DSM ecu...

 

Im pretty certain your duty cycles are in the 200's lol, altho im aware its just a quickie map for demonstration purposes.

 

Imho, If i had a miata id much prefer the honda ecu to the dsm.

 

240cc injectors on 30psi

 

**** me talk about a thread derailment!

 

guess u guys haven't been following the Specmiata thread. Spec Miatas guys have long been running ECU with adjustable fuel and timing.

Spec Miata Community: Modified ECU/Computer

 

So before you all went off on a tangent, did you take a look at my cruise datalog?

 

All you have to do is load that into mega log viewer, show the RPM, MAP, and AFR (maybe timing and air/water temps in a separate graph) and post a screen grab of the few seconds of interest and we can just analyze it here without doing all the work for you.

within minutes you'll have responses.

 

yah but theyre using the POS USDM ECU that doesnt allow for any more than mild fuel tweaks.

You can tune a honda ECU to support 30 psi of boost and 600hp...

 

What about this guy? Read a bit further into the thread when a user dynotronics1 comes in

Advancing the Timing on a '99 Miata - MX-5 Miata Forum

 

I don't really know what to look for, my AFR log is showing the narrowband is doing the right thing during cruise and idle. When the car was on the dyno we dialed it in so it had 14.7:1 in cruise and 12:1 when fully up it in boost, that was going by the Dyno Dynamics wideband built into the dyno.

 

Here is the thing with these other options though. You are paying for only the fuel and spark control with rewired ECU's. You mise well get yourself one of those Apexi piggy backs if your going that route, it would be nearly as powerful.

The power in the Adaptronic is the other features. You are not paying for just a spark and fuel map control alone. You are paying for fuel autotune, boost by gear, traction control, launch control, fully configurable auxiliary outputs, turbo timer functions, electronic blow off valve functions, electronic wastegate functions. An electronic wastegate controller alone is what 300? The honda ECU's can't do those things, an eprom on the stock ECU can't do those things.

Having gone down the road of splice here, bandaid there, it gets much more complicated much more quickly as you want to add features. Even if you did switch to one of these other systems the learning curve and MPG, all that, is still going to be dependent your ability to tune, and I would bet they don't have fuel auto tune to help you when you start out. You would literally start with a blank slate, blank fuel maps, and probably have to work something really different into the triggering mechanism of a cross ECU swap as well.

I'm obviously a supporter of an aftermarket solution to this because I sell it, but from any point of view the stock ECU EPROM or the cross brand ECU swap is going to be tough, custom, and take alot of expertise. I've been dealing with standalones for around 5 years now, and I wouldn't even want to try to do something like that. I could see Matt doing something crazy and getting it right, but it would be extremely complicated and for what gain? You spend 200 hours on figuring out how to get that thing in and even at minimum wage you could of bought an Adaptronic.

 

I've spent a bit more time on this and noticed in my logs that the O2 sensor wasn't aiming for stoich at idle. This is what I had set for my closed loop fuel control:



I hadn't paid any attention to the advanced parameters section in the past, but I knew closed loop was working OK during cruise so I read up on it:

If the "Low RPM threshold" is set to anything above 0, it will use those advanced settings up until the RPM you specify, so essentially I had closed loop disabled below 1300 RPM.

These are the changes from above as per recommendations in the manual:

Proportional Gain: 2
Integral Gain: 1
Maximum integral correction: 8%
Low RPM threshold: 0

Since the change the logs now show the car aiming for stoich at idle instead of just showing full rich all the time.

I don't think this was the main cause of my poor fuel economy, but it certainly wasn't helping.

Now you can get back to derailing this thread, *******!

 

We actually started a new thread so you could have yours back.

 

they are the same company. they can support FI.

 

I fitted an LC-1 to keep you fools quiet. I'm cruising at 15:1 AFR but my economy still sucks *****. I'm beginning to think it's the weight of my right foot.

 

Fit a boost gauge to your intake plumbing and see if you're still boosting at cruise?

 

The throttle is before the blower so it would read the same as my MAP sensor.

 

Hey Saboteur could I have a copy of your map, your fuel and your ignition tables look so much better than mine lol.