in what direction did it change the balance?

 

Added front downforce.

 

This

 

cool thanks. we need to bring crusher the the wind tunnel..

 

Have to be CFD. Sold Crusher about a year ago.

 

Saw this link posted over on the s2000 forums. Great tests and data from older magazine articles:

Technical Data :: Reverie

 

Dollars spent: $200
Hours spent: 15
How effective: TBA
Materials used: Structural Plywood, Speedway Motors Polyethelyne, Aluminium Angle, Gutter Mesh
Size/thickness of materials: 12mm Ply, 3mm Poly
Bracket location: Front crash beam and subframe mounts (behind steering rack)
Tracks tested on: TBA
Race/TT class built for: CAMS 2B Production Sports

My Crusher front - will text next weekend:



























Still have to tidy up the edges a bit.

Used OEM radiator guide and shaped up additional plastic ducting for the radiator out of the leftover Speedway plastic. Used some rubber door trim I had lying around to seal it.vim a bit concerned the gutter mesh might be a bit dense and not let enough air through for cooling, but we'll see next weekend when I test.

The fit isn't perfect but it is good enough for a good test. I learned heaps making this and could make another in a lot less time.

Dropped around 8 lbs over the old plywood and 3"x2" splitter and OEM nose / GV lip combo.

I have also cut and holed an old rear bumper I had lying around and will test that with the nose next weekend.

 

Nice job, turned out very clean.

This was my first thought when looking at it, just be sure to keep an eye on your temps.

-Ryan

 

Agreed. Too dense. There are formulas floating around the web to calc open area and approximate flow coefficient. Mcmaster sell mesh and lists open area percentage for each variant.

 

McMaster isn't really an option here in Oz... But I'll source something else before next weekend. Thankfully removing the front panel is only a 5-10 minute job.

 

That looks very sharp indeed!

 

What's the value of keeping the plastic stock air straightener? I haven't seen too many cars keeping that... Or maybe I didn't notice?

 

Looks pretty good. However, the 1/2" plywood bellypan is unecessary. Mine is made from the 6mm flavor and holds up just fine. Its plenty strong for a belly pan. would probably save you an additional 7-8 lbs which in my book is alot

 

I only kept it because it gave me something to build a radiator plenum from. There are convenient holes on the front and rear that you can fasten it to.

As for the 12mm ply, it may be a bit heavier but the survivability is also that much better. In the future, I might go with a laminated fibreglass tray but again, one decent off track plow run and I'm out of business. But you ain't gonna smash 12mm ply to easily.

 

came out looking fantastic. but rivets man, rivets! probably would have saved you $50 in hardware using rivets.
PS lighter too.

 

Meh, I have heaps of m6 hardware from my karting days and it is comparatively cheap over here, unlike some other stuff.

But yeah, might have saved a few grams.

 

big kilograms are made up up those little gram things

yes, probably nit-picking over very minor things, but I always remind myself it alllll adds up.

-Ryan

 

Here was my attempt at a radiator exit duct. This is the split configuration, as I will be running a cowl induction air inlet setup. It is tall enough to clear my mongo SPAL fan, and will exit through two diamond-ish shaped holes in the hood.

If it doesn't flow sufficient amounts of air, I'll be bummed, and will end up yanking it off and just leaving the holes in the hood. It should be in the negative pressure zone of the hood, I'm just concerned whether the volume will be enough. I can't make it any bigger than that, as it's as tight to the engine accessories as I can make it without fear of shredding a belt (engine is leaning back in that pic as transmission isn't in).

It is made from a very thin-walled 3/8" box tubing skeleton, and a 1/16" ABS skin that is riveted on. Seams are sealed with black silicone where necessary. Rivnuts hold it to welded tabs on the radiator end tanks.

 

I believe you are right about the negative pressure towards the front of the hood. Ive seen plenty of people with that design. Most of them have a lip around 3 of the 4 sides with the back flushed. I believe this aids in a more uniform flow above the duct to extract maximum heat. I really messed up when I did mine. I placed a naca duct in the front with the vents in the back.

https://www.miataturbo.net/media-53/...upplies-52825/

 

I just finished reading this entire thread and I am impressed. I've been trying to get open foam running on my Linux pc but have been having issues. What other software are you guys using besides cosmos and openfoam?