Downpipe rattling against the subframe.
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From: Chicago, IL
So i thought it was because of the engine mounts or the transmission bracket that holds the stock exhaust. Yesterday i got brand new mounts in and removed the tranny bracket. No luck, the downpipe is still rattling against the subframe. Any ideas?
This is the begi s kit with the regular non separated gasses dp.
This is the begi s kit with the regular non separated gasses dp.
sawzall? grinder? jaws of life?
can you clock the exhaust housing a few degrees somehow? mine rattled and still does sometimes but i have vband so i can rotate the pipe and clamp it in place again.
you can use exhaust wrap on the spot it rubs to stop the noise at least
can you clock the exhaust housing a few degrees somehow? mine rattled and still does sometimes but i have vband so i can rotate the pipe and clamp it in place again.
you can use exhaust wrap on the spot it rubs to stop the noise at least
Sucks, surprised to see this seeing as though you have both the begi manifold and downpipe. I would try throwing some heat wrap around it as well, might make it tolerable....
Hi there,
Sorry for the late reply, I've been out with pneumonia. First, I would make sure you have the right down pipe. Did you get it new or used? If new, you can loosen all fasteners, wedging something between the subframe and the downpipe, then re-tighten the fasteners. If that does not work, give me a call and we will figure it out. If the pipe is used, can you post some photos and details of your car? Exhaust systems details too please.
Thanks,
Stephanie
Sorry for the late reply, I've been out with pneumonia. First, I would make sure you have the right down pipe. Did you get it new or used? If new, you can loosen all fasteners, wedging something between the subframe and the downpipe, then re-tighten the fasteners. If that does not work, give me a call and we will figure it out. If the pipe is used, can you post some photos and details of your car? Exhaust systems details too please.
Thanks,
Stephanie
Try what Stephanie said first, if that doesn't give you enough clearance then see if clocking the turbo a small amount helps. One mm on top could be like 5mm on the bottom.
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Republic of Dallas
you either shim the engine mount or you sent it back to BEGi to get it fixed.
And I would keep that pipe. Could you perhaps use a couple of washers behind it to space down a bit?
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From: Chicago, IL
Well today i fixed it. I loosened the bolts on the turbo/dp. Used a C clamp to grip the flange and twist it and tightened the bolts. That gave me about half an inch or so.
Now that was done but noo i wasn't stopping there. I lifted it so i'mma beat the crap out of it at least for annoying me all winter. I took off the pipe on the bottom and had my way with it.
You can see the paint all gone from where it was rattling. The dp had a shiny spot on it too.

It has washers on each side so i took the washers from the passenger side and used them on the drivers side as well.
I also beat the **** out of the pipe, put it together and it looks quite dandy now.
Now that was done but noo i wasn't stopping there. I lifted it so i'mma beat the crap out of it at least for annoying me all winter. I took off the pipe on the bottom and had my way with it.
You can see the paint all gone from where it was rattling. The dp had a shiny spot on it too.

It has washers on each side so i took the washers from the passenger side and used them on the drivers side as well.
I also beat the **** out of the pipe, put it together and it looks quite dandy now.
If the down pipe hits that brace, the best thing to do is add some washers the brace mount or flatten the brace some. We just modify the braces here so there is adequate clearance.
Stephanie
Stephanie
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