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I'm running reverse flow with a Davies Craig EWP and I find it works extremely well. I have two 12AN feeds into the head, one at each end. Really you don't need the thermostat at all as it's easy to regulate the coolant temp via the ECU if you set it up with PWM control to control EWP speed. I think the thermostat will add a restriction point when you want full coolant speed.
I also set up a $6 ebay thermocouple sensor on the head so that you don't need coolant flow to know the head temp. This connects to the ECU via an adafruit amp and outputs 0-5v signal. I think it's a good option so that if you get a coolant leak or the EWP stops for any reason so you can throw up a warning light or go into limp mode if the sensor exceeds thresholds. The stock coolant sensor is a bit risky as it won't detect failure of the EWP.
I find even with my tiny radiator, I sit at only 85C (185F) at full tilt on the track and that's with the EWP only running at 60% duty cycle.
Just read the entire multi decade thread! JK
The car looks amazing dude!
I ran an 8000 pound truck at 10.60s...No reason you can't get a sub 2000 pound miata into the 11s!
It all comes down the the 60 foot and 330.
You are going to need to pay some serious attention to traction to get there....I'm sure it can be done!
Carbs work great in a manifold designed from the ground up to carry and distribute fuel evenly...even then fuel distribution can be a real problem. Normally that is not much of an issue...until you decided to add large quantities of nitrous that is! FI wont make any more peak power than a carb, but you will get perfect distribution, can better correct for ambient conditions, and the options are endless really.
Tuning with nitrous is so much better with fuel injection...and if you have one hot cylinder you can feed it a bit more fuel or whatever you need.
Complete A/F/Spark control means less blown motors with nitrous.
It occurred to me that you might want to run carbs for the old school aesthetic?
No reason you couldn't run the carbs as butterflies for the cool look and snappy throttle response! All you need is a TPS and you are in business.
Have your cake and eat it too so to speak.
Just an idea!
I did not see a mention of what fuel type you are considering?
I'm running reverse flow with a Davies Craig EWP and I find it works extremely well. I have two 12AN feeds into the head, one at each end. Really you don't need the thermostat at all as it's easy to regulate the coolant temp via the ECU if you set it up with PWM control to control EWP speed. I think the thermostat will add a restriction point when you want full coolant speed.
I find even with my tiny radiator, I sit at only 85C (185F) at full tilt on the track and that's with the EWP only running at 60% duty cycle.
My setup currently uses a gutted thermostat. I want to keep the thermostat housing to keep my options open. There is much debate on what's the best method. Some (but not all) water pump experts say you need the restriction. I guess it depends on the application and weather conditions.
I have a feeling I will I will try different size restrictors, or perhaps go with a working thermostat until I get the temperature just right. I have been in the same boat as everyone else using an electric pump. It seems the water temp is too cold which scares me.
Currently my set up has no ECU. That will eventually change, but that will not stop me from using an electric pump. I learned I need to be careful and really pay attention. The upgrades and sophistication will come with time. I have been paying attention to your setup, and have made changes to my setup because of it.
I call BS on the whole thermostat pressure gain theory. I've never run one in my track car but then I don't cruise in it and I don't drive it till its warm.
If you aren't controlling it by an ecu you could use a standalone controller.
Just read the entire multi decade thread! JK
The car looks amazing dude!
I ran an 8000 pound truck at 10.60s...No reason you can't get a sub 2000 pound miata into the 11s!
It all comes down the the 60 foot and 330.
You are going to need to pay some serious attention to traction to get there....I'm sure it can be done!
Carbs work great in a manifold designed from the ground up to carry and distribute fuel evenly...even then fuel distribution can be a real problem. Normally that is not much of an issue...until you decided to add large quantities of nitrous that is! FI wont make any more peak power than a carb, but you will get perfect distribution, can better correct for ambient conditions, and the options are endless really.
Tuning with nitrous is so much better with fuel injection...and if you have one hot cylinder you can feed it a bit more fuel or whatever you need.
Complete A/F/Spark control means less blown motors with nitrous.
It occurred to me that you might want to run carbs for the old school aesthetic?
No reason you couldn't run the carbs as butterflies for the cool look and snappy throttle response! All you need is a TPS and you are in business.
Have your cake and eat it too so to speak.
Just an idea!
I did not see a mention of what fuel type you are considering?
Enjoying your build!
Keep up the good work!
Jamie
I have owned the car since new in 1995. When I got real serious about modifying it, the hot setup in E-Production was side draft carburetors and TEC ignition. Since I had lots of experience with nitrous, I knew that was the way I wanted to go. However, like so many times in my life, I had to put the car aside to take care of more important things.
I put the car together before ever joining forums, but after ECUs became more affordable and widespread. I was already so deep into the project, I went with it. Because my sidedraft setup worked worked so well and made good power, I just continued development in other areas. I also already had all the low fuel pressure components for a really high powered nitrous system from my American Muscle drag racing days.
Last edited by miata2fast; 03-25-2018 at 04:53 PM.
I had an extra water pump laying around, so I thought I would start from scratch with it. Moving the exit (formally entrance) from the stock location to the nose housing the impeller shaft and bearings.
To stylize things a bit and to maximize weight reduction, I removed the flange. Should look prett trick when I'm done.
Does anyone see the problem with this waterpump? Thank God I didn't weld up all the fittings before I noticed it. I just so happen to have another water pump laying around and had to start over.
I will be welding two bungs for water temperature sensors so I am ready when I switch over to an ECU.
In other news, my clutch is done. Once the water pump project is complete, the motor is going in the car so I can sort out how everything will be plumbed and wired.
It seems like you could figure out a way to get a belt to the alternator without the water pump pulley. I would think even the stock alternator tensioner would give you a little adjustment. It would at least be worth playing with before changing the plans.
Don't listen to these guys, you need to be able to get it to the track and back. It needs an alternator and a radiator.
Carburetors are fine too, I used to run twin sides on my old corolla. People don't realize how crisp and snappy they are throughout the entire rpm range unless they have actually used them. When they are properly jetted anyway.
01-31-2017, 09:55 PM
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