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It would be easier to use the coolant lines that go from the thermostat housing to the mixing manifold for the coolant source and then go from turbo to mixing manifold...Can you show a better picture of your "mixing manifold"
The destination of the coolant hose I intend to use as a supply, is now the -6an male fitting. I feel like the turbo has to be in that line for coolant, its just the method to connect them that I'm a bit stuck on. The bit of thermostat hose you're able to seer in this picture is going to have that port capped.
In the pic below, the yellow lines are the 5/16" hoses that fit to the banjo bolts on the turbo and the red bits are the connectors Im trying to work out.
Last edited by KevinK121; 03-20-2020 at 04:52 PM.
Reason: Visual context
Is your front water neck gone (the one that used to go to the thermostat)? If not, that is the nipple to pull your water line from, not tie it into the heater circuit.
There was a hose that went from the above pipe to the mixing manifold. Classic (and effective) turbo coolant took that hose out and spliced the turbo lines in its place.
Read through the thread that you bought your water pump adapter thingy. I believe there are a handful of people that tapped it with a 1/8npt. Same with the thermostat housing...Tap it with a 1/8npt, then use that for the coolant source.
I appreciate you guys. Im a bit more lost now though.
I took a few more pictures and drew up my current understanding of what I have available. I also took a picture of the old component to illustrate the differences of my options vs stock.
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My initial plan was to connect 1 to 2, then 3 to 4 and just cap off 5.
Another option might be 1 to 4 with a T-off into 2 and then run 3 to 5 but I'd be a little worried it wouldnt be putting any/enough coolant through the turbo.
I have something similar. Going off your numbers I went 1 -> 3 then 2 -> 4. I have eliminated 5 in my setup.
The best photo from my thread, some others may give you additional clues: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...2/#post1538939
I did make a custom adapter to go 1 -> 3. I welded a hose barb to AN fitting so the rubber line was away from heat as much as possible.
I did not retap 4, I just found the right AN fitting for the new water pump inlet adapter to convert it to AN 6.
You definitely made me feel better about my initial plan. Ill plan on doing the same. You also brought up another question that I didnt even think to consider...
Is this the correct flow direction or do I have this backwards? The way I have the turbo config'd is in the second post on this page as well.
Bummer though being I had previously read that the CHRA "should be as close to straight up and down as possible". A least all the hardware is capable of coming loose again.
5-3 2-4 is normal. If you don't want to use 5, I would put a Tee in the OTHER heater line. This would be the equivalent of adding a barb to the rear of the head.
I will note again that you should run a re-route.
What I actually did: That post and a couple past that show the lines) Reroute. Before the T-stat (spacer on back of head) route 1 hose to heater core and a separate hose to the turbo. Then from the turbo to 4.
The problem with what you are proposing... no reroute and cap 5, is that you get no flow across the T-Stat to let it know when it is time to open.
Water in or out of CHRA is not a big deal which one. Yes, they should be horizontal. The main job of the water cooling is at shut-down. Thermal siphoning will dictate the flow direction, which could actually be in the opposite direction from what the water pump does. Again, if in and out are horizontal, which goes to which place is not important.
If I'm interpreting this correctly, wouldnt the thermostat be getting plenty of flow from the oil cooler? The route to/from the TB was deleted when going to the square top.
I'm actually a bit confused, the path goes from the oil cooler to the thermostat. The heater core return path also goes from the mixing valve to the same barb on the thermostat. So both are going in before going back to the rad.
Given the hose diameter of the rad return to the mixing valve, is the issue that the thermostat would be seeing higher temperatures too quickly?
Unfortunately a reroute isnt in the cards at the moment. Work also just furloughed us for a week without pay and hinted there may be more of it in the future.
***actually, being the thermostat barb is an exit, to both the mixing valve and the oil cooler, would it really matter if one of those two coming out of the same barb were capped?
Apologies if this is simple and I'm coming off ignorant.
On the OEM setup the line that drops from the neck to the water pump inlet ensures that the thermostat is always seeing a fresh supply of water, possibly more equal to the temp of the entire cooling system. Since one is high pressure and the other low, coolant constantly cycles and temperature is theoretically more equal. If you remove that line you depend on convection to warm the water in the neck to the point the thermostat opens. At that point the water in the block and head could be much hotter.
People ran remote thermostat reroutes for a time on miata and did alright, possibly by enlarging the bleed hole on the thermostat to promote flow. I do know if you do it that way and you drive in the winter you won't have a heater on the highway, plus warmup takes for ******* ever.
Trying to turbo without a reroute is a really stupid idea. Worrying about temperature differentials of coolant near the thermostat when you don't have a reroute seems silly. There are larger issues to deal with first...
This will be my last post on this subject. Although Emilio did not show an arrow for the flow direction of the oil heater / throttle body water, it is from the rear of the head, into the little Tee, and then to the mixing manifold.
It will not help water flow from the front of the head past the back of the TStat. What you are suggesting will likely also stop flow through the oil cooler.
So, instead of doing one of the 2 things everyone else does, you wish to:
Screw up the flow to the back of the TStat (which supplies its signal to open)
On visual alone, my perspective makes perfect sense. I even apologized for potentially coming off thick. The superiority complex of folks here will never cease to surpise me.
Is this how you guys treat folks in your places of work?
"Trying to turbo without a reroute is a really stupid idea."
Ive read more than one post where Sav goes on about running a turbod car for 20+k miles, on and off track, without a reroute. Please communicate your opinions of his stupidity to him as well. I didnt say Id never go to effort but as far as getting this off the ground, its not in the cards. Potentially being out of work soon and already having every necessity to get running and all...
Again, based on that visual alone, it doesnt look like the thermostat performance would be effected much if at all.
But whatever I'll take your guy's word for it and tap the hawley mixing valve to keep the return from the neck.
If someone asks me for advise and tells me they are going to do something that I know from experience won't work well I'd consider it an ******* move to not tell the guy, but that's just me...
I've had my bone stock NB2 out to the track without a reroute in our summer heat. I lifted the head in a single 15 minute session. No healthy miata does track without a reroute. If Savington really did say that, which I doubt, he's a ******* moron. I also lifted the head on my turbo 1.6 ******* with the coolant system on the street. It cost more than a reroute to put them back together.
If your intent is to be a decent guy and help out maybe try it without the blatant disrespect.
Idk why forum culture(here specifically) dictates that advice and just plain conversation needs to be carried out with as much hostility and volatility as possible.
Heres that quote for you.
If your intent is to help I can certainly appreciate it but Im never not going to stand up for myself when I'm called stupid or otherwise condecended to or talked down to. Its unnecessary. If you cant type a response without intentionally being a ******** maybe some self evaluation needs to happen. Folks shouldnt be punished for trying to pursue their interests and learning through discussion.
If this post begins the end of my short and unpleasant tenure with this site, so be it.
Sorry you thought you yourself and the idea of turboing a car without a reroute are synonymous. From further postings, It's clear we are actually dealing with some pretty advanced retardation here. I am positive some deep self evaluation needs to occur. I'm also sure that info from 12 years ago still stands, good luck with your build.
On the topic of having a week off of work while under a shelter-in-place order... should give me no excuse not to get a lot done.
- Clutch install
- Detail engine as much as possible while the trans is out
- Fuel pump
- Drill/tap oil return
- Drill/tap mixing valve
- Injectors
- Rebuild the intake setup
Might even get a wild hair and remove the dash for the gauge install.
The washer bottle shipped today. Thats pretty neat. Only took ~2.5 weeks. Was expecting 1-2 months based on others experience from this JP vendor.
All fittings and their respective taps have been purchased as well. Other than coolant, an oil filter and the aluminum for the additional heat shielding, Im about set.
03-20-2020, 03:21 PM
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