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That being said, I have been wondering if a wider but shorter IC is preferable, as it will move the end tanks out of the flow towards the radiator. Probably marginal though.
I like more space between them because the intercooler doesn't allow as much airflow through it as the radiator does. I like air to be able to get around the intercooler on all sides to get through the radiator. But be sure not to plug the bumper mouth with the intercooler, either. I've seen that as a restriction sometimes also.
See now I read a few different folks saying "as close as possible without touching to make sure the air doesnt pass through the IC and escape elsewhere". I also saw a lot of talk about HD foam for baffling etc.
I see what you mean but for the moment, Im going to consider it within the range of acceptable tolerance lol. I do intend to do some ducting in there further down the road.
If I need an immediate bandaid, Ill try to get my AC fan hooked up and running. Id like to add a coolant senor eventually as well... someday someday someday
Originally Posted by HarryB
That being said, I have been wondering if a wider but shorter IC is preferable, as it will move the end tanks out of the flow towards the radiator. Probably marginal though.
Id say that stands to reason. Same capacity, eh? As long as hose routing is still tidy, Id say it makes sense.
Speaking of hose routing, I dont see a way to do this without this soft FM silicone charpiping rubbing the sway bar. I dont think itll be in any real danger of wearing through so Im going to choose not to worry about it for the moment but, I guess Ill check on it periodically.
As far as using my previous tune for a base map... kosher? I know Im likely over-thinking this a bit.
Pretty much all reassembled. Need to put the bumper and hood back on.
Started it a couple times after trying to set the injector info. I was able to get it to run and idle alright at ~1100 & 14.3afr for now. Need to play with it more. I hope to start learning about the VE and spark map stuff. Maybe just source some numbers to try. gotta learn more here O_o
So far so good though.
The boost gauge says Im pulling 20 in/Hg at idle, which at 866′ in MPLS, is supposedly a good thing. I was barely able to get the boost gauge to show boost under ~4k rpm blips/revs. Didnt wanna push it much being the whole tune is still an unknown.
The one big thing that struck me as odd so far... the BoV, which is VtA currently, is just dumping air at idle. Is that normal? Probably. I need to read more about everything O_o
Set you Overboost Limit to just above where you are tuning, just in case.
Then as you have good tune, move it up, but never above what your rods can take.
DNM
I went through the Car Passion youtube vids and did set the over boost protection as well as updating the injector info.
In addition to those, Im only really worried about the VE table and the spark map. I dont really know where to dig in. Im sure theres plenty of material on the subject Im just overwhelmed trying to get into it.
Watched some youtube info tonight. Its starting to be a little less of a foreign language. Im starting to appreciate how all-encompassing MS really is.
Basically drove it around the block on the old N/A tune with boost control on and the injector information updated.
Time to dig in I spose.
The only advice I can give for tuning is if you are just starting out, zero out/turn off anything you don't absolutely need until you get start up, idle, and the fuel map more or less dialed in. Then bring in each extra feature (EGO, AE, MAT correction) online one at a time and tune it.
The learning curve on one of these is like running face first into a brick wall.
Tuning a spark map beyond guessing and then making sure it doesn't knock requires a dyno, or somewhere you can make very consistant pulls without getting bugged.
These two videos from the sloppy mechanics guys really thoroughly explains a ton of the megasquirt menu's that I either wasn't aware of or was using improperly. It's a long watch but you can skip through to things you are curious about. The learning to tune process is insanity really because you end up doing everything a thousand times over as you learn how different tables affect each other and so on. But regardless the feeling when you figure out how to eliminate the tip in stumble or weird idle quirks over time is the greatest joy known to man. Logs are you friend and be organized with all of your tune files and log files.
So starting from the NA base map I updated the injector info, added the additional area to the VE table and autotuned over what was already there. I smoothed out as much as I could and re auto tuned, smoothed, tuned etc.
It now drives and makes boost pretty smoothly. It gets up to 10 pounds which is what I was hoping for on the 6-8# spring. I know its not perfect and the higher the RPM, the slower it pulls which is kinda strange.
I know its nowhere near optimized but for the moment it really puts a smile on my face to drive it and her all the fun boosty noises. Good enough to start taking logs and learning.
Basically, I was toly that because Im not running the OEM fuel pump, my 650cc injectors are actually closer to 750cc injectors. I've never seen this thought process written out in the forums. I had thought a bigger fuel pump would only ensure the larger injectors wouldnt run out of fuel to spray, not increase the fuel it sprays... given it has its cc rating.
Idk, Im more lost than I started and this wasnt even my initial question lol...
The reason I came to this at all was a surging idle and thinking my dead time was incorrect.
Yeah I eventually figured out what the guy was trying to communicate. Being overwhelmed and him trying to communicate as little as possible in a Mr. Myagi sort of way only served to frustrate and cofuse the **** out of me in the moment. I dont intend to post there any further -_-
Still idles like crap but it doesnt hunt anymore once its warmed up. I had to take a weird middle ground between the flat line I had and the intended settings.
The plan is to open one instance of TS with my current tune and then open another with the 01-05 base map and figure out what my tuner did to make it idle at that flat line pulsewidth ...
Just a strange thing to figure out for someone just getting the fingers into this.
From there Ill try to use that MS idle tuning guide. I forget who did it or where it is off the top of my head but I know it exists.
Its been raining for days anyways. That and it looks like theyre cancelling all the big usual events for the first half of the season.
Which isnt all bad but I would like to get some use out of these fresh RS4's -_-
Plenty of time to learn tuning... after figuring out the laptop thing that is
I guess the move these days is to ebay a business class laptop rather than buy a new consumer class laptop. Ill have to give that a go.
Maybe a Thinkpad if I can find something recent enough.
I'm a big Thinkpad fan (currently on a P1 gen 1), in large part because you can pick up ~1 gen old laptops with really nice specs for a great price used, and the warranty is completely transferable (big win if they're coming from a business liquidation, usually have a 3-4 yr warranty). If not, so long as they are new enough (most on eBay are in my experience), you can just pay to extend the warranty once you purchase it through the lenovo site and the serial number (I think it was an extra $200 to go from 1yr basic --> 3 yr, accidental damage, on-site repair warranty on my laptop). I would definitely check out an X1 Yoga Gen 3 to tune with in the car, super light, you can get em with a quad core and 16 gb of ram, and if you want to just use as gauges you can fold the base all the way around and just use it as a big tablet+stand. A colleague picked up this same laptop 2 months ago for $650, just gotta keep perusing (and generally can ask the seller for the serial number to look up warranty status): https://www.ebay.com/itm/LENOVO-THINKPAD-X1-YOGA-INTEL-CORE-I7-8650U-1-90GHZ-256GB-16GB-RAM-NO-OS/193466980555
04-24-2020, 11:23 AM
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