No don't do that, just multiple steps up to torque.
Don't loosen them unless you plan to change the head gasket.

loosening is a procedure on some cars, but definitely not a BP iirc

I got a few questions I hope you guys can answer:

1. Any real reason to get the Gates water pump with the cast impeller ? I got a regular one.
2. Do I need anything more then the stock replacement for the trigger wheel to go with the ATI damper ?

Thanks

Do you know why people do that? You answer will be pretty straight forward when you find the why instead of asking others to tell it to you. I have asked some people the question, but with those power goals you need to be clear on your failure modes on the car...you need to figure out what fail safes need to be put into place with respect to your ECU as well.

READ THIS. Also buying cheap EBAY stuff for 300+hp is not smart. It wont last. Like it says above...

A very long write in order not to answer anything.

Thanks.

My point is that you should know if this is your plan. Just encouraging you to look on mt.net. too much spoon feeding

The cast impeller is better. That's a decent reason.

Do you want to run a trigger pattern that is other than oem? If so, you need something other than a stock replacement trigger wheel. If not, then no.

The reason for non-stock trigger wheels is that they provide greater accuracy when the engine is accelerating quickly. The ECU only *knows* crank position when a tooth pulse comes through, and for spark/fuel events between tooth pulses it is estimating that position based upon what happened in the past. The more teeth there are, the more data the ECU has, the better the estimate it can make, and the less time it has estimate be syncing back onto a tooth. A stock wheel has 4 teeth, aftermarket wheels often have between 12 and 60 teeth.

In my experience with an MS3, while the NB's 4-tooth stock wheel is less than ideal, the benefits to a 12-1 or more wheel are relatively small. This is much less significant than the error inherent to a belt-driven cam angle sensor like an NA has. I run a stock 4-tooth wheel in order to make it simpler to swap back and forth between stock computer and MS3, and it hasn't proved to be a big deal.

--Ian

Guys which one should I get?
The better one.
Oh ok I got the worse one.
....
...

is -275 a negcat record? (that is still an active account)

How do you guys do it? I very much respect your willingness to help people on here especially answer the same questions. +1 cats from me!

Thanks man.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1e47f633a9.png

I noticed that I did not see the thing I circled when I disassembled the the head and it is not there when I reassemble it - critical ?

That is a locating dowel, and yes, it's critical. Bolts provide clamping force to hold the head and the block together, but the locating dowels make sure that they are aligned correctly.

--Ian

You want those so badly. Buy two. P/N: B630-10-306

Ordered - thanks.

I have put 2 or 3 motors together without those without any issues. You just have to make sure you line up the head perfectly when putting it on. ARP head studs make it much easier.

Thanks shuiend !

They were not 300+whp monster builds just so you are aware. One was a bone stock 1.6 with 303k miles on it. Other 2 were 1.8's, with one having low boost.