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All 4 injectors are firing, and in the correct order. All 4 coils are firing, and in the correct order. The timing is correct.
Maybe a clogged injector? I pulled the fuel rail, and there's nothing obvious. Still thinking about how to test injector flow without sending them out.
I guess the other thing I should do is pull plug wires one by one to determine which cylinder isn't firing if that's actually what I'm hearing.
While the motor is running, are there any changes if you slowly remove a spark plug wire from a cylinder? Also does the same thing happen if you unplug each injector one at a time?
I can't really unplug injectors while the motor is running, or coils 3&4. But I can unplug the coils one at a time and see if it still starts. I don't think it will start on 2 cylinders.
No real updates except that I'm 47 days into a sinus infection and starting another 3 weeks of antibiotics. Usually Car-No-Start would be living hell for me, but I haven't even touched it in 2 weeks. I'm gonna try to get out and tinker with it over the weekend. here's my list of things to try:
1) load new tune. Maybe idle VE was total ****?
2) check high speed log. Maybe crank sensor isn't picking up a good signal?
3) check compression. Maybe something mechanical is wrong?
4) get injectors cleaned. Maybe I have a clogged injector?
Running, but a little clatter. Had to advance trigger wizard by 8* to get it to idle at static 10*. That seems like a lot, seeing as this is a VVT setup without an adjustable cas.
Edit- retard by 8.
Last edited by wackbards; May 28, 2018 at 11:10 PM.
Car is running! I did a few miles of auto tuning, but I can't seem to get VVT working. Both the oil control valve and the vvt cam gear are off my old motor, so I know that they should be working mechanically. VVT just isn't responding under normal operation, or in test mode. I'm open to diagnostic recommendations.
When making butt splices, always do a pull test. Aka...pull it. A couple tugs. If it comes out, it was eventually going fail and you saved yourself the head ache later. Also, always use heat shrink connectors. Which looks like to you did, but didn’t shrink them. That’ll save some of your weaker crimps. Make sure you’re using a proper ratchet style crimped too, not just some flat pliers.
Yes to correct crimper, no I didn't heat shrink. Looks like my wire routing was just putting too much tension on that connection. Added some slack & buttoned it back up.
Well, the car is up & running. So far, the engine break in issues have been relatively minimal:
1) VVT OCV wiring came apart
2) IC hose coupler was lose
3) my 3 yr old PC680 finally died due to massive abuse. Tough battery. I replaced it with a PC625, which on paper appears to be cheaper and slightly better CCA.
This weekend I put the undertray back on, and gave the car a bath. It's gonna take me a loooong time to break this motor in just because I don't get to drive it very often right now. I think I have 14 miles on it right now.
I may as well post up the first and last pic of the new motor while it looks clean. What was I thinking painting it white??? I guess I just wanted to brighten up the bay and make any leaks visible. No question oil shows up. Shoot, even fingerprints show up.
On the last week of wrenching on the engine swap, I discovered a massive mouse nest in the passenger footwell. The carpet was completely destroyed. Luckily, I nabbed a carpet from a local member. Unfortunately for me, it was out of a RHD JDM car. Since the 1.6's have the ECU under a kick plate in the passenger footwell, the carpet is 6" shorter on the passenger side. Of course, the JDM carpet is short on the wrong side... A little bit of creativity with scissors and Velcro fixed it up real nice.
As an aside, alternating treatment of the interior metal surfaces with baking soda & vinegar completely eliminated the stank. I also treated the bare metal with cedar oil spray to discourage them from visiting again.
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