I did not. I used the OE NA8 pump that came on the 94 block. I've read a number of threads where people use them in conjunction with a VVT head. Oil pressure is apparently visibly lower when VVT is engaged, but seems to be at least street reliable. I can't personally advocate it, cuz I have exactly 0 miles on this config.

 

Spark checks out OK:

A-1
B-3
C-4
D-2

 

Fuel did NOT check out! I had cyl 1&3 backwards. Now it's injecting:
A-1
B-3
C-4
D-2

Still no start. Battery needs a charge bad though. Crank RPM was ~150RPM.

 

The timing wheel is facing the right way. You can see the TDC marker detent facing convex side aft towards the motor.


​​​​I still need to check my timing to see if it's crazy.

 

right trigger wheel settings?

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...8/#post1411135

You tell me

 

The cam input is set to CMP, I have never seen that before. Generally it has been JS10 on way older MS's, and MS3X cam in on braineack MS3x's.

 

Ok. I'll fiddle with it tonight & see if something sticks

 

​​​​​​​You have a MS3PNPPro right? I believe if so it is set to the correct input.

 

Yep. PNP pro. I think that the TS input is ok because I'm getting a signal from the cam and crank in the high speed composite logger. I'm not confident that I wired the cam or crank sensors correctly. Is there a way to discern that from the composite log? Is it possible to wire it wrong such that you get a signal but it's... inverted or something?

 

I'm using a MSPNP Pro as well to run the 2003 VVT engine in my 1990 NA. I can check my spark settings today after work to see what mine look like. Maybe it'll help.

 

Aw snap. Classic n00b maneuver

 

That was it! We have combustion. It was an ugly first start, but it runs.

Cooling fan kicked on maybe during, but definitely after the engine died even though coolant temp was 60*. Something funky there. Need to get on the IAC & timing. I got my weekend cut out!

Thanks everyone for the support.

 

I would say about 50% of the time I can't get an engine to start in a NA after doing a swap it is because I got fuel lines backwards.

 

OK, no tach signal on the dash gauge. I spliced blue/yel to black/white at the OE igniter per the instructions in the VVT swap sticky, so I expected to get dash signal. This is what DIY has to say about tach out on the pnppro in the manual:

"J5: Tach Out on Connector J3, Pin 4I (1995.5+ Miata Only)
When this jumper is installed, the signal TACHOUT will be transmitted on pin 4I on the main ECU connector (J3). This should only be used on 95.5 1.8L Miatas."

I didn't install this jumper. Should I? Does this circuit want a pullup resistor?

*EDIT* what DIY labels as pin 4I on the ECU is pin 2I on the OE ECU, which is the black/white sig out to the igniter. Guess that answers that question.

 

The fan control was set to kick on if AC is on. There's no AC, and gawd knows what wiring is left from it. The ECU must think AC is on. I've turned the fan AC assist and the AC idle up function off, and we'll see what that does.

 

Because I adapted a crank sensor to a '94 oil pump that wasn't designed for a crank sensor, I had to use trigger wizard to correct my base timing. It was retarded by 5.5*. Things are getting better. Baby steps! Baby steps...

 

I guess that's important...

 

Well, it's running right. I had a bunch of stuff I had to fix today. First, I had the fuel lines backwards. Then I had the AC fan settings all jacked up. Then I had forgot the tach out jumper. Then I had forgot the fpr vacuum line. Then I had a problem with cyl 4 injector not firing. I ended up having to toggle the sequential settings in TS.

Also, I think the pinout documentation DIY has in the 9093 pnppro manual for sequential injection might be backwards. That was a fun game.

 

Back in the land of the living.