Did you miss the part where I said I didn't think the Miata is the right platform for such a business?

Oh I'm crazy but believe me I wouldn't even attempt to open a business. Fun to think about, but I'll stick to making bread for a living and cars for my hobby.

It has worked out well so far.

NOW BACK TO WORK! :giggle:

Who wants to help me put my car in Jeff's garage in the middle of the night? The ol' switch-a-roo.

This was a really good thread to stumble upon especially for a first post. The MLV and dynamat job really made me giddy.

Absolutely can't wait to compulsively check this daily. :beer:

So my powdercoaters are finishing up the parts tomorrow and I had a question

The plastic piece on the outside of the butterfly valves....will this melt in the fiery inferno of powdercoating it?

How do you remove the butterfly valves to ensure no damage? Or how do you remove the plastic piece?

Butterfly valves? Do you have a VICs head?

And yes, it'll melt. Anything plastic or rubber will. Bondo too, if that matters.

’99 miata intake manifold with active VICs controlled by the megasquirt computer.

So yes. I read the screws are stamped at the end so you cant remove it...

Insane restoration. I'm blown away.

Bad photos but I decided to paint my rotor hubs to avoid the nasty looking rust you get from unfinished rotors. Doesn't look perfect, but taping a circle is hard when you don't have the right tape. It's only rotors though so who cares!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390521705

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390521705

Fun little tip: Next time just buy Centric premium rotors. They come with the hat painted already, and they're still cheap. ;)

These were like $15 a rotor shipped from Amazon so I'll take the savings! ;)

Powder coating is all done


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390530639


Oh
My
Flying
Spaghetti
Monster

They turned out so damn good. Thank you, dear bastards, for making me spend more money.

Dashboard Brace, gonna have to dremmel off the 2 ground locations.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390530554

Misc covers for fuel filter etc etc

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390530554

Alternator housing/brackets/pulley, these turned out really really good

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390530554

Rear Subframe Brace Dashboard part and the removed butterfly valves(obviously not powder coated)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390530554

Hard/soft top brackets. I had an extra set done if someone wants to buy them.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390530554

Upper intake manifold Decided to clear coat it to keep the raw look, which was the right choice, it looks most....choice!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390530554

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390530554

Lower Intake Manifold

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390530554

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390530554

Rear Subframe turned out just as hot as the front.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390530554

I have every part for the car now so all it is going to take is getting the wiring harness finished, dashboard put back in, full interior put back in, and then I'll assemble the subframe and engine and put it all together.
.
.
.
sounds so simple when you condense it down to a paragraph! :jerkit: :bowrofl::nono:

Looks great. I am neck deep into a bushing install & suspension resto right now. I decided not to powder coat my subframe because I can't fit it in the oven at work, but seeing yours makes me think twice! I only sanded & POR 15'ed it. I just did my lower and upper rear control arms & the hubs. They came out pretty decent with the eastwood kit. I love powder coat !!!

POR15 is probably just as good as powder coating from what I have heard.

I probably could have powder coated it all myself in my bread oven at my bakery(huge ass oven), but I wouldn't want OSHA/health inspectors all over my ass for that one!

This is so sick and twisted. I love it.

Woops! Forgot a picture.

Door sill plates. Need to track down a sticker to put in there. I know Revlimiter is contemplating making some in the future so maybe I will just wait for him to start producing some.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390534176

Measure the opening, post the size. You'll be flooded with all sorts of stickers in the mail.

Wow, you rock if you are offering to do so, if not for those that are interested...

7 and 3/8 inches long
1 and 3/8 inches wide

Another small update

Bill from Miataroadster had these Moss Low-pro headlights for sale that he had originally planned to put on his car, but last minute decided to go another route.

Normal Moss headlights but Bill added:

(2) Moss upper buckets powder coated wrinkle black
(2) stock lower brackets (that the motors mount to) shaved of tabs for the stock hood prop and powder coated wrinkle black
(2) new NA01-51-SA5 retractor rods
(4) new KA01-51-SD7 hinge bolts for bucket pivots

and still it was cheaper than buying the kit new! I love the look of them especially after talking to Revlimiter about them.

Before I installed them though I decided to clean up the motors a little. Wire brushed the aluminum, steam cleaned it, and laid down some fresh paint on the motor housing to give it a nice fresh look.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390568913

Pretty easy install, just need to figure out the wiring for it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390568913

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390568913

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390568913

Also worked on getting the brackets for the wiring all installed

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390568913

I'll see what I have. Plenty of stuff lying around, just have to find something that's appropriate. BTW, PM me your mailing address.

You're going to love those headlights. Definitely one of my favorite modifications when I had an NA.

I don't know why I keep coming into this thread, and keep having my mind blown.

I should be prepared for it by now you would think.

Also, thank you for the painting of the rotors. The slight imperfections in the tape job prove that you are actually human, I was beginning to worry.


Dude, serious props, this is so nice. This motivates me to get my arms and suspension bits powder coated

How are your emmissions laws un Utah? We don't have inspections in AL, so I threw away all of the solenoids and crapola on the passenger apron, and it made a huge difference in engine bay cleanliness.

Good lord, that powdercoated stuff looks tasty.

DEFINITELY attend to the grounding on your dash frame. After I POR-15'd mine, I didn't even think of the grounding. I went in a year later and built a grounding network for it.

There's grounds at both ends of the frame, both sides of the instrument cluster (I just mentioned one ground twice because it's both at the end of the frame and on the left of the instrument cluster), and grounds in the center for the radio and HVAC. At least, those were the grounds for my 95 harness when plugged into my NA6 dash frame.

And as for stickers on the door guard, I could probably produce some as soon as now...

Really, really nice Jeff. Seems silly to just keep giving compliments without otherwise contributing to the thread, but I can't help myself.

Now that you have all the bits . . . you'll be driving Sunday evening I presume?

Why would he not drive it as soon as he finished? Why wait?

Lol. So tonight, right?

Wish I could contribute, but I'm too feeble. Amazing, amazing work. Every time I think I have a vision about how awesome your car is going to be, you take that vision and make it more awesome. Which is awesome.

By the way, it looks like you bought everything more or less separately, but now you're putting it all together? Did you built the engine first or did it come all together or separately?

I hate this thread.

BRB: I'm going to go burn my car to the ground.

I think your participation in brian07's thread has caused some problems. :giggle:

:makeout: :giggle:

Glad to hear another good review, I love the look it gives the front of the car, much more aggressive.

I ran a razor blade over the small imperfections to hide my human error!;) Do it! After spending the time grinding a couple of the control arms and painting them myself the time vs. money spent to powder coat them is well worth it to just hand them off to the pros.

Cedar City is the AL of UT. Or the ID of UT I should say. There are none. Which is good because my VW would never pass emissions in SLC, UT. What solenoids can be removed? I wasn't too sure which ones were ok to clip and which I needed to keep. I already deleted the charcoal canister.

Stickers are appreciated but not required!;) Do you happen to have any pictures of the ground location by the headlight cluster?

Also does anyone know where the factory ground locations in the engine bay are?

Keep complimenting even if you have nothing constructive to add! I know it seems silly but the compliments and well wishes really help me keep a positive energy going into the car. It is nice when you put a lot of hard work and effort into something, and sometimes, you have doubts about your work. Those doubts/qualms are dissipated by people who are much more experienced with Miatas than I saying atta' boy. :bigtu:

Awesome.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390598310

The engine was fully built when I bought the car with:
Built ’95 1.8L with forged internals.
Bored block with 84 mm 9.0:1 forged supertech pistons
M-tuned connecting rods with ARP2000 hardware
ARP Head studs
ACL race bearings
Balanced rotating assembly
Billet oil pump gear
’99 miata head, ported, polished, 3 angle valve job, backcut valves
’99 miata intake manifold with active VICs controlled by the megasquirt computer
750cc RC injectors

Please don't, you'll regret it!


Thanks again for the compliments guys, you think I inspire you but you guys have really helped the momentum keep going by pushing the positive energy back into me when sometimes I just want to curl into my bed and turn the master breaker switch off for 3-4 days.
:bowdown:

LOL sorry Jeff, I do remember that the car was built before you bought it. Was making a reference to this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...3/#post1095327

Oh god that is some bad English. I hadn't been following it too closely so it went way over my head.

There is a link to a 1992 Mazda Miata FSM in a sticky. You should download that (the 90-93 are all pretty much the same). The wiring diagrams in that FSM are much more detailed than what you find in the parts store manuals. They indicate grounding points, connector locations, connector pinouts, etc., etc.

EDIT: It looks like those manuals were removed from the site. Bummer. PM Brain or one of the other mods to see if they still have a link. Worst case, I can put the copy I have on a file exchange place for you.

Try this for wiring (and more) diagrams. Pretty colours too.

Mellens is OK, but not quite the Mazda FSM

I just put the 90-93 Mazda FSM (~90MB) in a shared Dropbox folder. If any of you want it, you'll need to join Dropbox (www.dropbox.com) and then PM me your Dropbox ID so I can link you to it.

Spent most of today tracking wiring paths down, I think I almost have where the cut wires belong figured out.

Also polished some of the yellow out of the dash lights

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390623384

I suck with a soldering iron...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390623384

Couldn't get the yellow out of the coolant overflow tank, so I decided to paint it instead.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390623384

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390623384

The front portion of the dash was dented, so I'm switching it from the CO car's dash. I would just use the CO dash but its cracked really bad on the top.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390623384

OK, my brain is fried. Wiring diagrams are just a blur to me now.

So these are the last issues I have yet to be able to track down. None of them are related to the stock Miata harness; it is all MS3 related and ground wire related.

I'll try to explain clearly with each picture the problem at hand.

This is the MS3 connector. The Blue/White coming out of the connector has a Black(lets call it a ground) wire poking through the butt connector; connected to it and then it ends. Can't find the MS3 diagram to find out where it should terminate. Also all the thin gauge wires were not connected at any point so I don't believe they are an issue.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390643390

Travelling farther down the previous connector comes to a junction with a black "ground" wire coming out of the cable. The only issue is, is that it is connected to one of the thin gauge wires that were not connected(GREY). So I'm unsure if it was ever connected or not. Again, all the thin gauge wires were wrapped in electrical tape and unused.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390643390

Connected to the thin gauge PINK and RED wires are a thicker gauge black and red wire that are unconnected.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390643390

I believe this is the wideband LC-1? Unsure what this even is(I'd look it up but again, my brain is fried).
Black ground wire exiting it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390643390

Shiny spangly cable with two connectors coming out of it. I believe it plugs into the main MS3 Board.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390643390

Any help with those who know MS3 would be greatly greatly appreciated.

Did a little work that wasn't wiring since I needed a distraction. Mostly spent most the day walking into the garage and spacing out watching netflix...

Alternator all put together. Put a new sealed bearing in since the old one was making some bad gritty noise.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390737386

Little spritz of paint on the engine block after degreasing it and steam cleaning it. Paint is still wet if you are wondering why so shiny.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390737386

Tomorrows project...cleaning all the plastic bits.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390737386

Can't wait to see this all come together on the car!

Wow crap gets dirty sitting in the garage.

All disinfected. Also clean out your HVAC pipes...20 years of nasty in those things.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390771944

Pretty sure most old Miatas smell funky because of the 20+ years of gunk in the HVAC. + old carpet padding.

I'll bet your car has that new-car smell again.

NICE! I did the same with my dash. It was so therapeutic cleaning 24 years of crap out of the 89-vintage ductwork.

I did the same thing to my coolant overflow tank, but the gunk accumulated again and I just got tired of the plastic. Ever thought about one of these?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390838576

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ct...FZDm7AodYkAAhg

I have but I'm not quite willing to spend 130 on a coolant tank quite yet. Especially when I may have to buy a partial wiring harness for my ms3. My friend is a welder so I may just have him make one for me to fit in the fender well when he makes a heat shield box for the brake and clutch masters.

Completely understandable. I wasn't willing either but I got mine when it came up in the classifieds, $50 or so I think, was a little easier to stomach. They do get posted FS from time to time. Anyway, enough of me trying to spend your money. :)

Vlad actually has a clean overflow tank. I've seen pictures. It's wierd.

With the amount of parts that guy has access to I wouldn't be surprised.

I've read CLR or LimeAway works pretty good at cleaning those things.

Unfortunately the problem isn't staining for most old plastic. The problem is age and heat. It chemically changes/corrodes the plastic so it turns yellow. So nothing, after a while, will affect the coloration.

Saying that, a guy on the M3 boards had really good results using folgers coffee grounds, shaking them in the tank for a long time seemed to pull a lot of the crud off. I just didn't have any on me.

lol I just sold a set of perfect NB tanks, you shoulda bought em

Must have missed that.

On a side note I found a hard top much closer in Las Vegas for $850 off a 2003 in perfect condition.

Think I may pick it up due to the fact that I'm in such a remote place in regards to people selling them, and I have found nothing close to a better price vs. the condition they are in.

For convenience I have no problem spending an extra $100 + time saved + Diesel saved.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390893782

Sounds like a solid deal. As long as its OEM you're set

Yup, the challenge noe is getting these damn craigslist ad posters to respond to your texts. I have called and texted so many of them and never a response. Infuriating. I thought you were trying to sell your stuff!

People tend to get really paranoyd about out of state texts/calls.

I guess in this day and age I don't think about area codes. I think every one of my employees has a different prefix and I get calls all day long from out of state so it never worries me. Sad thing is with an 801 code on my phone it always looks like a 1-800 #.

Damn telemarketers trying to buy my stuff off Craigslist. :rofl: