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Originally Posted by Godless Commie
(Post 1099596)
Individual gauges are so 20th century...
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Originally Posted by BTMiata
(Post 1099599)
That screen looks so 90's though lol... I like the concept it would just be nicer if the screen was more modern imo.
I installed a Pioneer CD player instead, and moved my "gauges" to the top spot while I did that. |
Originally Posted by Godless Commie
(Post 1099601)
That whole flip up doodad is long gone. I thought it would be OK at the time, and removed it after about a month.
I installed a Pioneer CD player instead, and moved my "gauges" to the top spot while I did that. But yeah those flip-up screen things never did it for me either. They always flopped around and seemed really cheap. My friend had one once and I swore it was going to fall off whenever he hit a bump in the road lol |
Never mind.
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Originally Posted by Godless Commie
(Post 1099596)
Individual gauges are so 20th century...
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I'm going to embark on a frantic and crazed neg prop frenzy on every build thread that isn't on the same level as yours.
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Question on the boost gauge. Does the gauge itself need to be sealed in order for it to display the correct boost? I.E does the faceplate need to be sealed at all?
If not I think I could order another of the AEM gauge rings and then cut both at an angle on the left side so that it angles towards the driver. Then mount it at the top of the blank plate. Cheap and would look good no? |
Originally Posted by bikersam717
(Post 1099626)
I'm going to embark on a frantic and crazed neg prop frenzy on every build thread that isn't on the same level as yours.
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The gauge does not have to be sealed. It's just a display.
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Highly informative post. Very nice pics on the lock work.
BTW, Radioshack sells dielectric crease last I looked. |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1098988)
I am undecided if I want to paint the line in the slider buttons white again, looks great gloss black, but we'll see.
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1099505)
The gauges were actually really really easy to put together, added more so due to the insane attention to detail Adam has. Let just say this, I hope he factors in the cost of his shipping materials & packaging into his prices but a small bomb could hit the packaging and it would remain unscathed. My packaging: I once had a gauge package sit in a puddle for 3 days in front of a customer's house. The package started to disintegrate. The contents were completely untouched. :) Thanks for the great gauge pix Jeff! And BTW, I can make faces for those spendy AEM analog gauges. I've done it many times. |
Originally Posted by Godless Commie
(Post 1099596)
Individual gauges are so 20th century...
For quick glances on track with multiple sun angles, nothing beats a single-function analog gauge with black face and orange pointer positioned high. Only a HUD would be better -- although there are some sun angles where a HUD isn't usable. |
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1099757)
Maybe so, but I just bought some more.
For quick glances on track with multiple sun angles, nothing beats a single-function analog gauge with black face and orange pointer positioned high. Only a HUD would be better -- although there are some sun angles where a HUD isn't usable. |
I was planning a Nexus 7 indash to replace the double din. Then use shadowdash to display all the megasquirt stuff as gauges. I like what this guy did as far as using it to get actual radio. I was trying to tether it to my phone for the Google music stuff. Personally a little terrified to root my phone to tether though Nexus 7 in dash install - ClubRoadster.net
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Fauk the glare 1st off 2nd off a tablet is not exactly track friendly. I bet that thing would overheat if you left the screen on too long. As efficient as tablets are made out to be they really are not that efficient. Also everytime you turn the car off and on you have to reconnect the bluetooth according to that vid in soviets build thread. Aint got time fo that.
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Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1099757)
Only a HUD would be better -- although there are some sun angles where a HUD isn't usable. |
Monitor/alarm system is sweet.
I've just begun using an iPod for lap timing and video -- have it positioned front and center, just below the rear view mirror. Wonder if I can get the MS to talk to it and have it do that monitor/alarm stuff. Hey wait . . . isn't this Jeff's thread? Are we moving to "Race Prep"? |
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I think it is funny that gauges spawn this much debate, of all the things in this thread, the gauges man!:giggle:
Well my Discover card's amazon cash-back sure was nice. I like technically free things! The plastic cleaner gives a perfect matte finish and smells like citrus, I love it! The little tube is for trim and rubber restoration. Supposedly it is awesome stuff although I've never used it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391747483 |
Holy shisa those analog AEM gauges are expensive, what do they do fill it with gold???
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1099877)
Holy shit those analog AEM gauges are expensive, what do they do fill it with gold???
^Cheap, easy to read, oem-style and bulletproof. Can't recommend enough ;) |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1099877)
Holy shit those analog AEM gauges are expensive, what do they do fill it with gold???
They are also color adjustable meaning I can color match my interior lighting, thus satisfying my OCD. -Zach |
Thanks for clarifying the cost and making my OCD want them more!
I guess if I really wanted to satiate my OCD I'd just replace the boost gauge and then get a black face plate for the AFR gauge. As to mounting them? I'm not sure. Maybe mounting them both on the left edge and cutting the trim ring at an angle to have them face me more? Yet I still don't think it'd look too pretty. I like the idea of a tablet but know the inherent weakness it has especially with the Bluetooth manual connection you have to make with MS3 each time(source Soviet),, I just don't want to replace the 2 dashboard vents. I'm a skinny bastard with no body fat. When it gets cold...I like my heat. Revlimiter gave me a link to the Zoom Tombstone which has three 3 gauge holes above the vents but A) It is pricy B) I don't like the lines of it much. Saying that a thought dawned on me that when it gets cold enough I'll probably be driving the Jetta instead of the Miata....hmmm I'm talking I'm circles here aren't I... |
Or I could just live with it for now and actually get my car running! Yeah that would be the smarter move...
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I love my Maxigauge, one of the best mods I've done to my car!
Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 1099793)
Actually the Maxigagues are better than analog for one reason. User-settable upper and lower limits for each parameter monitored. If it goes outside of those limits it sounds a very loud alarm that is easily heard on track. I never even look at them until it goes off and then see what is causing it. And before someone says "yeah but by then it is too late" you can set it wherever you want. Want it 20* below a self-imposed threshold? Set it. You can also change it anytime with the buttons on the front so different settings for track or DD is no problem.
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Jeff, since you have torn into the wiper controls, I'd suggest you do not button it up before doing the "intermittent control" mod.
Takes about 5 minutes with the board exposed like that, and you will thank me later. I did that, and it IS one of the best mods you can do to a Miata. Here's the link for instructions: Miata Intermittent Wiper Control I used a rotary pot, like this one, and mounted it on the switch blank next to the cluster light dimmer: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391847606 |
Originally Posted by Godless Commie
(Post 1100196)
Jeff, since you have torn into the wiper controls, I'd suggest you do not button it up before doing the "intermittent control" mod.
Takes about 5 minutes with the board exposed like that, and you will thank me later. I did that, and it IS one of the best mods you can do to a Miata. Here's the link for instructions: Miata Intermittent Wiper Control I used a rotary pot, like this one, and mounted it on the switch blank next to the cluster light dimmer: |
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Title: How to break an OCD persons spirit.
Give them a Miata Diff and tell them to clean it. I never...ever...ever want to do that again. It ain't perfect but...I simply just don't care anymore. I'm going to go buy some clear coat tomorrow and make sure I don't have to think about that again. Also, wear a carbon filter air-mask. Aluminum oxide is no bueno. Also, can you install zerk fittings for the diff bushings? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391863960 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391863960 Question though. Torque gave me a spare diff spacer he had, the problem though is that the replacement spacer only has one bolt hole, while the old one has 2. I don't foresee this as an issue but I thought I'd pass that along to you gurus. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391863960 |
You mean the two holes that bolt it onto the diff housing? Mine torsen only has one too. It's really only a spacer, so the two big holes in the middle are really all that's necessary, the 1-2 tabs on the side are really only to hold it on during installation.
Don't grease the diff bushings though, they're not pivoting bushings, and if they're aftermarket polyurethane bushings, they won't be moving much at all. |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1100214)
It ain't perfect but... it's still better than factory new.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1100232)
.
Don't grease the diff bushings though, they're not pivoting bushings, and if they're aftermarket polyurethane bushings, they won't be moving much at all. Rleete...prove it! /maniacally laughing. |
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1100250)
Rleete...prove it! /maniacally laughing.
BTW, I am often the same way. Start some simple task, and end up spending way too much time and effort cleaning parts, tweaking things, etc. It's gotten so I don't start projects, because I make so much work out of everything. I am a hobby machinist. I make "steam" engines (run on air) but tend to not get them ever to the finished stage, because I insist on polishing/painting the parts to perfection. Which is silly, because my machining skills aren't all that great, and I should concentrate more on making more complicated parts, and less on making things pretty. Anyway, I really admire the attention to detail and sheer magnitude of the project you have undertaken. You're going to have one fine car at the end. |
Ah so the truth comes out! I think to be a machinist you have to be on a different level of ocd. I don't have the patience for that. Sounds awesome though, I'd love to have that skill.
I keep thinking that if I didn't get distracted by some inane detail of the car I'd be done by now. It doesn't other me too much though since this is a "project car" and not my daily driver. I think that is the reason I have gone so far with it, it has no rush to be done so I can really dig into the nitty gritty of it. |
You'll be done soon enough, stuff starts to fly together once your parts pile of cleaned and painted bits starts growing big enough.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1100288)
You'll be done soon enough, stuff starts to fly together once your parts pile of cleaned and painted bits starts growing big enough.
There is one thing I can recommend everyone does when painting. Tape off your rubber trim perfectly or remove it. Not worth the headache and damage it causes trying to carefully scrape the paint off. Working on the rain rail, I think that is what it is at least. The rubber U shaped trim connected to metal that bolts down in 10 spots. It is covered in white paint. Using chemicals to strip it off damages the rubber too much so you have to be super meticulous. Currently deciding if it is worth clear coating the aluminum on the diff. What do you guys think? |
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OK talk was cheap and decided to do.
Bought some clear engine enamel, which is good for about 500 degrees F. Since there are so many nooks and crannies and it would be impossible to get the surface nice and clean for paint I decided to spritz a little on the aluminum and the blast that off with the steam cleaner, to ensure no aluminum powder was left on the surface. Unfortunately I started painting late so I had to make a little contraption to block the wind and get some heat on the diff so it would cure properly. It is warm in Southern Utah but it drops 30 degrees the instant the sun goes down. Yes that is tinfoil, I was in a rush!:giggle: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 Obviously hard to see but it is nice and clear coated, I put about 4 layers on to ensure it would survive being under the car. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 and mounted in the subframe and torqued to spec(~69 for the 17mm and ~19 for the 4 smaller 14mm) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 Also got the frame rail cleaned up and slotted in. Lots of overspray, so it took a TON of rubber restore to get it back to being nice and healthy again. It is still curing in this picture hence the splotches. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 Installed. Thanks to whoever pointed out that it needs to be tightened in a certain order. I wouldn't have even thought to look without that! I cleaned out the old sealant and put a nice thick bead of clear waterproof sealant inside the gap before I pressed it on. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 Also put the accessory trays on as well. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391921956 Now onto buttoning up the rest of it! |
In for first start by Monday morning.
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Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1100384)
In for first start by Monday morning.
I wish Let the fun begin.... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391937137 |
Such clean
So detail Very suspension |
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Originally Posted by Godless Commie
(Post 1100388)
Such clean
So detail Very suspension This is how I feel when assembling this stuff. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391938322 and then when it finally fits all together https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391938322 If I don't organize it like that my brain explodes. |
I bet you drive your car before I drive mine.
Course I'll be sitting inside sipping hot cocoa while I wait for mine. You'll be building the best BP-powered Miata... Ever. |
I get the feeling that the skin is getting thin on my fingers through thisprops giving stuff all the time...
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1100066)
I just don't want to replace the 2 dashboard vents. I'm a skinny bastard with no body fat. When it gets cold...I like my heat. Revlimiter gave me a link to the Zoom Tombstone which has three 3 gauge holes above the vents but A) It is pricy B) I don't like the lines of it much.
Saying that a thought dawned on me that when it gets cold enough I'll probably be driving the Jetta instead of the Miata....hmmm I am up in Cedar City with my miata w/ hardtop also with no body fat, and tbh to get heat the fastest I find to just use the defrost and floor setting, even with the snow and stuff we got last week the eyeball vents just get my eyes dried out too fast. Ive just been using recirculate when water temps are below 160 to get heat asap, and then it gets to be just a furnace. I have had to set it halfway and then switch to outside air and its still baking in there. |
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Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1100391)
I bet you drive your car before I drive mine.
Course I'll be sitting inside sipping hot cocoa while I wait for mine. You'll be building the best BP-powered Miata... Ever. Hope it warms up for yah man.
Originally Posted by Zaphod
(Post 1100392)
I get the feeling that the skin is getting thin on my fingers through thisprops giving stuff all the time...
Originally Posted by Dlaitini
(Post 1100394)
I am up in Cedar City with my miata w/ hardtop also with no body fat, and tbh to get heat the fastest I find to just use the defrost and floor setting, even with the snow and stuff we got last week the eyeball vents just get my eyes dried out too fast.
Ive just been using recirculate when water temps are below 160 to get heat asap, and then it gets to be just a furnace. I have had to set it halfway and then switch to outside air and its still baking in there. I've come to the conclusion there is no way to do your bushings without covering everything in grease. I put all new zerk fittings in and redrilled the holes for the grease path. It was much easier this second time around mostly due to me actually organizing the bushings really well before I started. [IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391946389[/IMG] Glad the hard/messy part is out of the way. |
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Slowly but surely, in the words of Gune, "making progress!"
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391955259 Taking my sweet time so that I torque everything down properly and use all the right bolts/nuts/washers. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391955259 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391955259 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391955259 Just need the lowers put on and the brake assembly and I can bolt this sucker onto the car. |
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Bilstein's need some TLC before I put them on but it is a tidy little box if I must say so myself.
The gold bolts with red poly bushings is a perfect mix. Had to use a little metal polish to pull all the corrosion off the stainless lines. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391962686 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391962686 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391962686 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1391962686 Now it is time to grab some donuts and coffee and recharge the ol' battery a bit. |
Holy cow, Jeff! I have never seen anyone go to your level of restoring a car - it's absolutely beautiful, 100x better than new! This thread is the definite benchmark! :bowrofl:
And if you're ever thinking about selling this car, I'm already in line! |
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Hmm why haven't I seen your Miata around. Is yours the white or blue Miata I've seen on occasion? Ive seen a blue w/ stripes and a yellow one in town, not yet seen a white one personally. Tried to acknowledge them, its not like I was doing this: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...g_tube_man-gif But they kinda just give dirty looks, it was like a nod in their direction. I don't think they care, they were using it as a point A to B car |
Originally Posted by Legendary
(Post 1100447)
Holy cow, Jeff! I have never seen anyone go to your level of restoring a car - it's absolutely beautiful, 100x better than new! This thread is the definite benchmark! :bowrofl:
And if you're ever thinking about selling this car, I'm already in line! I think the line has started a while a go. I've had a few PM's about that exact thing. |
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My body crashed hard core, so not much done today. Just restored a little life into the Bilsteins and going to work on the brake assemblies. I'll repaint the strut bodies at some other point.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1392002206 |
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Also while I'm waiting on a little paint to dry.
It says the version of this Track Dog Racing ANGLED gauge panel is only for 99+ but it doesn't have one available for the NA's. Does anyone know if it will fit? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1392003873 |
You might need this?
ClubRoadster.net |
They do NOT fit the NA. It's been years since I attempted to install it, but it was not plug and play. On my NB, it pops right in. I ended up just making my own flat panel out of a piece of aluminum.
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Joy of joys that is all done. That thing is a beast to align properly so all the holes slot in right. I had a jack stand under the diff and a jack under each control arm and would slowly left each side until I could get the strut hat bolts connected. Then again with the back and forth until I could get both subframe-chassis nuts/bolts on.
So many things to connect to the subframe! Everything is torqued to its proper spec and can be ignored for a while now. Going to start on the front subframe in a little bit and get that hooked up as well. Found the proper grommet and bracket for the emergency brake cable. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1392037939 Lines hooked up the the brakes and adjusted for 5-7 clicks; which is what the manual calls for. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1392037939 The sway bar oddly gave me a lot of trouble. I could find no information on the proper way to install it so I winged it and it didn't turn out great. the left side is only 1 mm off the body of the subframe and I know for sure it will rub. Ignore the grease, I had just gotten done. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1392037939 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1392037939 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1392037939 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1392037939 lookin' pretty https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1392037939 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1392037939 |
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Swaybar endlink should be as close to vertical as possible?
It looks like you should flip the endlink so that it is installed outboard of the swaybar tabs?? |
that sway bar/endlinks definitely don't look right
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