The purely analog ones. I won't give the actual link but a site has 1 boost and 1 afr gauge for 60% off.

AEM Wideband Air/Fuel UEGO Gauges w/Analog Face - Wideband O2 UEGO, Water/Methanol, Stand Alone Engine Management, Piggyback F/IC, Tru Boost Controller, Gauges, Automotive Performance Electronics

AEM Boost Gauges with Analog Face - Wideband O2 UEGO, Water/Methanol, Stand Alone Engine Management, Piggyback F/IC, Tru Boost Controller, Gauges, Automotive Performance Electronics

Does VDO offer a stepper-motor wideband? I can't comment on the quality of any VDO products but having used both AEM Digital and Analog style stepper-motor widebands on the dyno, I STRONGLY prefer the analog needle.

While tuning you can visually see which direction your AFR is heading instead of trying to pay attention to jumps in the digits. Granted both offer completely the same data while logging for more accurate changes but gauges are supposed to be a VISUAL reference and (to me) needle movement is a stronger visual reference than digital numbers refreshing on a screen.

Others may feel differently but some of the better tuners I know turned me on to this concept and now I couldn't agree more.

I used those on a MSPNP car I tuned, and could never get the gauge to match up with TS completely accurately. Meanwhile, I've used a bunch of all digital ones and never had issues. So I dunno, that's just my experience with them.

Are you talking about the AEM or VDO?

With AEM people commonly run into accuracy issues when the grounding is not run directly to the same ECU ground location.

I've had the same issue with a digital gauge on an Adaptronic setup. Numbers weren't quite right - changed the ground location and they were dead on.

AEM
maybe that's what my problem was, but since I only got to tune the 1 car with it I don't know if it was a grounding issue like you say.

I went through the gauge buying thing a little while back. AEM is the only vendor which sells a complete series of analog gauges, including AFR.

Stack has stepper motor analogs, however, they only offer an LED AFR gauge. Same goes for VDO. There might be some obscure manufacturer out there which also offers an analog wideband, however, I didn't find it.

::EDIT::

Apparently Autometer sells analog wideband gauges in their phantom and sport-comp series (probably others as well). Innovate doesn't sell their analog gauge anymore, not that it matters since they didn't offer a matching boost/vac.

I like my gauges analog, and I like them to match.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1393959043


-Zach

Jeff... Just a little sneak preview of what your black intercooler will look like :drool:

(This is the Stage 2)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394057918

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394057918

I wasn't able to get today's batch wrapped up in time for shipping so you'll see tracking tomorrow morning.

Zach, do you remember exactly how you wired your boost gauge? Or is it documented in your thread somewhere?

*tucks in waistline*

Haven't wired it yet. A 10 degree garage means if it can't be done off of the car, it won't be done until spring.

I plan on t'ing my vac line at the MSPNP. Rest of the wiring is pretty straight forward stuff. I'll daisy-chain the power to an interior source and run the grounds to where ever is convenient (except for the wideband, which will go to the OEM ECU ground).

-Zach

Ah ok. :)

Was just wondering because we have the boost gauge in our 95, and whomever installed it clearly didn't wire it correctly. It's cutting power during cranking, which means that it re-calibrates to zero once the car is running. Which... isn't useful.

Probably straight forward, the AEM diagram is easy enough to follow, i'm just not familiar with Miata wiring or where to pull the power for the pink wire on the AEM pigtail. Won't get to it for a week or two, was just looking for spoon feeding if it was available. :giggle:

Oh lord that looks good. So happy I decided on black. Thanks for the deal on the gauges too!

OK not much done today. I decided to align my doors properly so that they would open and close solidly. Got them as close as I could make them(or at least stand spending more time adjusting them).

So while I was in there....I ordered some Garagestar fender braces since they had a coupon on their site a little while back. Install of these is dead simple. You can do it easily in 30 minutes. Probably more for you people who actually have their fenders ON their car.:giggle:

They really make a quality product though. Nothing to adjust at all, just pops right in. I reused my zinc plated bolts just for uniformity sake and added another washer under them.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394066095

Also, since I am putting the Aerocatch hood pins on my car, rather than the heavy hood latch, I picked up a Garagestar uncut radiator plate as well. Looks rather clean if I must say so myself! The only thing I want to change is the finishing screws to black.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394066095

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...c/IMG_2027.jpg

Jeff, this is simply stunning. Props as usual.

"Paint" them with a sharpie.

I'm considering getting those fender braces too. Very nicee

Hmm. Let me know what you think, but I'm a big fan of not adding weight without proven benefits. I'm even against frame rails, and those are proven to reduce chassis flex on jack stands by something like 30%. FM did a test. Is there any more info on these and frog arms beyond "reduces cowl shake"?

Pro-tip, that's a perfect place to drill and install a riv-nut. And another tool to buy if you don't have a riv-nut tool :) That's if Garage Star's panel uses a nut/bolt like my ancient Moss Motors piece.

Get out.

:vash:

Weight of one bracket is 2.8 lbs. A lot of people have report a noticeable difference in stability mid-corner and at high speeds. Supposedly helps with giving the front end a much more solid feel, less rattling, cowl shake, and on bumpy sections of the road it soaks up the bumps much more fluidly than normal.

Who knows how much of that is true. I did read several forums/threads that corroborated the same information. I'm not sure how much of a difference I'll be able to feel since this car will be almost 100% different than it was before.

I've changed so many things chassis/body related that who knows exactly what part has added to making the car feel stiffer.

I have a rivnut tool from my chassis brace in my VW. The garagestar panel though, mounts to the three screw locations on the chassis. Would there be any reason to rivnut it rather than the screws? I tried shaking it and it seemed pretty darn solid.

Little more work done.

Mounted the clutch master cylinder. Couldn't find the gasket and had some sticky "craft" felt laying around so I just made a new one for it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394081091

The clutch slave line I put in is rubber, but is it actually a braided stainless under the rubber?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394081091

I have this random braided line laying around, but the male/female ends don't exactly match the clutch hard line and slave cylinder port.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394081091

Decided to make a pressure bleeder cap for the slave cylinder So I drilled a hole in my spare cap. And slid the plastic piece into the hole for a rubber line to slip over.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394081091

Put some epoxy on both sides of the grommet to insure the pressure bleeder holds strong. Also put some epoxy in the breather port.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394081091

Forgot I got a Miata specific brake master cap(My pressure bleeder cap is a VW fitment)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394081091

All finished up.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394081091

I agree - No weight unless it outweighs itself in gains.

We just recently picked up the BossFrog product line and I had to get a set for my personal car. I first asked him about the rails thinking that would probably net the most noticeable gains and this was the response I got:

"You should try the Frog Arms - will make you a believer".

His response surprised me, but he is after all in the business of stopping chassis flex.

Speedhut makes some as well.
/threadjack



Keep on doing the good work OP. :bowrofl:

Perfect recipe for easy brake bleeding.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394089841

I went RR/RL/RF/LF and went around the car about 5 time to ensure all the bubbles stopped coming out. Bleeding a dry brake line system sucks.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394089841

Can anyone tell me what vacuum line gets T'd off here above the brake master cylinder?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394089841

Cruise control?

Didn't Nial have a glowing review for his Boss Frog pieces?

I hope that T is before the 1-way valve or you're gonna be in for some serious anus puckering the 1st time you drive your car

Hahaha i was just thinking that. I remember the time i referenced my AFPR off of something similar. That was fun. It was like a permanent peak/hold fuel pressure system.

Boost once, rich FOREVER.

Fuck T ing off of your BB. That shit scares the fuck outta me.

The one way valve is inside the rubber line on the correct side of that T. But double check - you should feel a lump inside the rubber line.

Just in case not obvious from everyone's responses, that T is not OEM.

That looks like the oil feed for your turbo?

Yeah, that vac T is not stock. I'd use it for a boost gauge or MS source provided the above about the check valve.

I've got the Boss Frog fender braces. Its disturbing how much difference they make. The ONLY thing that I've experienced that was better than the fender braces was Gesso's seam welded NB1. That thing is scary rigid, makes my NB1 feel loose and floppy.

You know, perfect time to mention seam welding now that you have already done all the bodywork and have moved to reassembly :giggle:

If that's for the MS, get rid of it, replace it with a new oem hose, and T off the FPR line.

Oh yeah, listen to Curly. I have an NB so no FPR vac line :crx:

I used a line like that for my boost gauge. Too much "noise" in the signal to use it for anything else.

I finally got the smoothest MAP signal for my MS by doing exactly this. T it of the FPR line, and I ran a little "fuel filter" inline as a buffer to smooth out the signal, like this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394128261

Thanks guys. Anyone have a picture of it T'd off the FPR line? Sorry, my brain works like that.

I'll search for one once done with work. I'm sure curly/someone else had it documented.

Finished off all the fluids except the radiator.

Pressure bled the Master cylinder for the clutch. Just in case anyone wants to know, the pressure bleeder cap for my 2010 VW Jetta TDI was a PERFECT FIT for the clutch master resevoir. I was really happy since the cap I made didn't work very well. So if you are looking for a cap for the clutch, look at VW!

I forgot how much harder the clutch is to engage on this car! I'm too used to my light VW clutch.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394184322

Filled the transmission up with some good Amsoil and replaced the crush washers for both the bolts. Transmission took almost the full 2 quarts, was getting scared I didn't buy enough but it started to drip out at the end. Pretty dang easy. Getting the torque wrench around the downpipe was a bit of a pain but nothing a wobble extension couldn't solve.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394184322

And some fresh oil and a new filter for the engine too. Is there any way to bleed the turbo oil lines before first run?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394184322

What manner of pump is that? I like it.

Ironically it looks like a shampoo bottle pump.

Ohhh this thing is so close to starting I can feel it!!!

Disconnect the spark plugs and fuel injectors and crank it until you see the oil pressure gauge move.

I usually remove oil feed from turbo, crank until it spews oil into a cup.

Re-install. Crank a few more times to prime.

Then put fuses back in. Fire.

I usually just start the car.

It takes the same amount of engine rotations to make oil pressure regardless. just start it and it will be fine. Unless you have a backflow valve on your turbo line it likely drains back to somewhere else in the oil system every time you turn off the car.

It is a cheap $5 marine oil pump I bought at Ace Hardware. Works perfectly albeit you have to pump it a lot.

I wish! I'm putting the electrical stuff off in the back of my head by doing these small tasks.:giggle:

Hrmmm... i have a HF fluid transfer pump.

Long hoses, which i like. Moves lots fast, which i like.

Try to pump just barely too fast, and it blows the hoses out and covers everything within a 200 foot radius with whatever it is you're pumping.... i don't like so much.

I've only use mine about 3-4 times but I think I'll take a slower pump for no explosion of fluid. The only thing that is worse is an exploding pressure bleeder full of brake fluid.

On priming, I usually disconnect the CAS (which provides the signal to fire plugs and injectors) and crank until there is oil pressure.

Does this not have the same effect as just starting it though? Would it not theoretically take the same number of revolutions to build oil pressure?

yeah, but it wont start and run if you don't build pressure.

In addition, the speed of rotation is limited to what the starter can generate. For instance, you're not going to catch and zoom up to 1500-2000RPM.

Fuel line cover panel slotted in place. Original car didn't have this but luckily the CO car did. Win!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394224802

Battery assembly put together. I think I put the battery in backwards so I'll fix that later.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394224802

Decided to start attacking the wiring and getting it squared away.

Cleaning up the Drivers side wiring. Not really a wire tuck/delete but through the crafty use of zip-ties I got them pull under the fender cowl snugly. I still need to mount the diagnostic port and I can't figure out what the white connector goes to.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394224802

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394224802

This is the airbag connector right? Can I just snip this puppy off?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394224802

OK, I got this wiring harness with the headlights, but the instructions/pictures for the Moss headlights referred to a much more simple wiring harness.

Anyone want to help me out in regards to where all these connect to? Can't find the 4 matching connectors on the cars harness.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394224802

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394224802

Grounds
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394224802

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394224802

Two blues with differing hue/saturation? ... get f_ckin' REAL ;)

-Zach

As for the airbag connectors, yes you can toss that stuff. Just be aware that if you should also pull the blue module under the dash (if you haven't already).

-Zach

It's called sloppy fast editing!;)

I CANNOT wait to see this car in September. Wow.

Just take it easy when it rains :giggle:

:cry:

Yeah definitely hope to avoid the random rainstorm I get caught in with this. Although I've gotten very fast at detailing cars over the past 5 years. Luckily it will stay garaged when not driving it.

My guess is that "Turbo Ed" is talking about bush pruning. LOL.

^ ding ding ding

There are better ways to remove bushes than to replace them with your car.

I live in the desert, xeriscaping means we don't worry about bushes...we just have to worry about giant sandstone boulders if we go off the road!

STAY ON THE DAMNED ROAD.

Yeah Utah's rockscaping or, erm, xeriscaping? intense.

Anyway... back on track here.

In for first start.

I thought I had deleted the interior airbag sensor but is this another one I forgot to delete?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394228209

That's a bit different than the ones I've seen, but that's where Mazda mounts the airbag brain. You definitely want to remove it.

Nope, you have 4 sensors. One in each fender, one right by the hood release, and the
one pictured above, below the impossible to tighten dash screw.