Personally, when I "prime" a turbo, I physically hold the impeller and have someone start the car. Sounds scary but the exhaust pressure at idle is nearly nothing and you can barely feel it attempting to spin. I give it about 15-20 seconds before I let go.

If you're truly paranoid, you can do this, but have the drain disconnected into a bucket to visually verify flow.

Well this next project should be a good intro into becoming good at soldering....

I pulled apart the power unit to the COP harness since I wanted to double check the connections were solid. I'd hate to do all this rewiring and then have a dead COP harness and not know why.

Glad I did, the very left wire had broken the pin in half and the other pins were on the verge. Who knows what was my fault for breaking loose the wires from their bonds of sealant...jesus that was a lesson in irritation.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394276110

So after I found out the pin had broke I was temporarily of the mindset "I'm screwed" until I can order a new one. Luckily the P.O. had a couple extras in the boxes of goodies I got with the car.

So after very very carefully separating the metal backing off the plastic housing, I was like, "sweet! Lets start soldering!" Wrong! Holy unrighteous spooge of stickiness. Whatever the electrical adhesive or grease they used is the stickiest crap I've ever come into contact with. After going at it with some tweezers I finally broke out the electrical cleaner...nada, brake cleaner...nada...goo off...jackpot. Nice clean metal to solder to.

Instead of cutting off the back of the plastic, I'm going to drill an individual hole for each wire to go through. Then add a little sealant around the holes. Then I'm going to pry off the electrical part of the metal and reattach it to have a nice sealed unit without spooging 6oz's of sealant all over the wires, making it hell to work on if I ever need to tear it apart again.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394276110

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394276110

evidence of the slime of which would bring the apocalypse

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394276110

Is it worth replacing this diode?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394276110


The mess of the COP harness I'm dealing with. I'm not going to replace the female connectors, rather, cut off the butt connectors and use the NASA style of soldering for a just-as-strong-as-crimping connection. If it works on the space shuttle, it should work on a miata. (ref. http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/doctree/87394.pdf "19.6")


http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...c/IMG_2079.jpg



I know how you folks here hate soldering, so don't judge me. I am just trying to save some money here, I still need to budget to:

Paint the hard top
Get an alignment
Register the car
Pay sales tax on the purchase of the CO car
Insure it
and keep money in reserve for some other unforeseen problem I may or may not have after the alignment. Who knows if there actually is damage to any subframe/suspension part after the car caught the embankment and rolled over.

One correct size phillips bit and a ratcheting wrench takes care of that "impossible to tighten dash screw".

Wait are we talking about the 10mm bolt on top of the dash? If so that thing is easy. Deep offset 10mm wrench makes it no issue.

http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/ima...sm=0.9,0.5,0,0

^ I've used a slim profile 1/4" ratchet and 10mm socket with great success. You have to get the bolt going with just the socket on the head at first, but yeah... no problems tightening that guy.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394295941

I use a Craftsman slim 1/4" ratchet.

I have no issues using a 10mm angled box wrench either, however my dash doesn't sit all the way back, so I need to push the dash forward as I try to tighten it. I thought everyone struggled with it. Apparently not. My main point was that there is an airbag sensor back there...

That is a capacitor and if it doesnt leak you are fine...

I had to join just to say this build and your work is amazing.

Ever consider ceramic coating and or wrapping the downpipe and turbo housing?

He'll probably polish them to a mirror shine.

Thanks! I did consider it, but at the time I couldn't justify the price, now I would, but I think I'd rather save that money for when I upgrade to and EFR V-band setup.:party:

:rofl:

Not much progress done, I needed a mental break from the car. I did get 1/2 the COP harness done though.

After reading up and doing some practice on some scrap wire I think my solder penetration isn't too shabby. Nice and strong. I know you guys who are actually good at this are laughing at me right now, but it'll do for me. Better than a shitload of butt connectors.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394368714

Heatshrinked

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394368714

Ready to put in some 1/2" heatshrink

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394368714

Struggled with pulling it through that long of a length of heatshrink until I taped the wires to a 4' length of bicycle brake cable and pulled it through.

It isn't very pretty but I plan on buying some nice looking wrap to give it a good professional look. Once the ground wires are all done I'm going to wrap all 4 wire bundles together for one nice thick rope.

Using Thasac's Harness for a little inspiration on this one.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394368714

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394368714

criticism is welcome, I fully accept my flaws at this whole "wiring" thing. I don't think my brain is wired(:giggle:) for it.

Oh, are you running sequential? Very nice...

Consider this stuff:

X-Treme® Tape Silicone Rubber Self Fusing Tape

Good to 600psi, dielectric to 400 volts per mil, and good for up to 500*f. Little bit goes a long way, and it's like really thick electrical tape that fuses to itself.

Although I like the webbed look better myself:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394380613

Jeff, awesome work as always! About the soldering, do you have a flux pen?

The plan is to keep it sequential like the original car was. He only has 2&4 running sequentially though. Not sure if that is proper or not when it comes to wiring it FULL sequential.

I'm having a really hard time finding wiring information on sequential setups. Some say run all 4 sequential and others state only 2&4 are necessary.

The car does have MS3X. Does anyone have a link as to the proper way to do sequential?

I love the webbing look. Can you buy that local or do you need to order that online?


No flux pen. I think some of my soldering flaws are from being impatient and not allowing the soldering iron to heat up the wires to the point that the wires melt the solder rather then the iron itself.

No idea and no idea. I'd probably buy the webbing online, and I'd probably ask someone who has experience past an MS1 about the sequential stuff.

Worth a try, you seem to know almost everything so...;)

Got the other 2 wires done, just need to solder them into the power source, the capacitor, and the MS3 connector for the sequential firing of 2&4.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394419410

Full sequential is each injector is individually controlled, rather than paired with other injectors, (known as batch injection). 1.6 owners add 2 extra wires as normally the injectors are paired up. the extra two wires allows each injector to be controlled individually. These are used in conjunction with the 2 wires already connected up to the injectors.

Firing order is 1342, and the injectors are paired 1&2 and 3&4, so the OEM wiring would be cut from 1&3 or 2&4 and then wired into the additional injector drivers on your ECU.

Hope that makes sense.

You can't have 2 & 4 running sequentially and 1 & 3 not**.

** well you could, but it'd be a fucking weird setup to do.

The next info is assuming pin 1 starts on the left on the COP.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394442819

See that is why I'm confused. COP 2&4 are wired for sequential. Both go to a separate pin on a connector. Then COP #3/pin-3 is wired to OC1 on the power unit. COP #1/Pin-3 is wired to IB2 on the power unit.
(This connector for 2&4)
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...310_031730.jpg


The other pins all go to these locations on the power unit.

COP 1-4/Pin-1 goes to VB
COP 1-4/pin-2 goes to TAC and IGT
COP 1-4/pin-4 goes to GND

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394442347

Sorry missed you were talking about COPS not injectors.

Principal is identical though, just the pairings are different. 1&4 and 2&3 are paired as stock.

Sounds like the wiring just retains the OEM run for 2 of the coils, then adds 2 extra. It's only the signal lines that have to be added, the rest can all be paired up (12v etc). Tach you only want 2 of the 4 to reach the cluster, or the tacho will read 2x too fast.

Thanks Richy. I'll take a look at it after I've gotten a little rest. My brain had turned to pudding working out the wiring paths/soldering.

Good news is I've gotten better at soldering, not bad if I say so myself...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394448470

And the power unit wiring(this may be wrong but I copied the original wiring exactly(and the car ran perfect with said wiring)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394448470

OK, glad most of the work is done. Only things left are to wire 2/4 to the MS3 connector and some superficial pretty wrap.

Capacitor makes it look bulky but everything is nice and tidy. Ground was a butt connector with a plastic insulator on it; but I didn't like how secure it was so I cut off the plastic, crushed the butt connector, soldered the wires to the ground, and put some heat shrink around it. Much better.

I'm happy with how it turned out for my first time doing some slightly "real" wiring.:facepalm:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394457832


Rough mock up of it on the VC.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394457832

The thick part of the cable hides nicely under the fender.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394457832

I'm guessing this is the adjustable fuel regulator? Has a bolt on the back of it that a ton of grounds bolt on to.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394457832

Some how massively screwed up when I order the air filter, way too big for the hood to close.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394457832

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394457832

Looks great man! Why go through the effort of making the cops PnP? I just hacked that plug off and wired them straight in. At this point if i EVER sell my car (no plans to) it's going to have to go with the MS installed at least anyways.

Can't see an AFPR in the pic? Only the stock FPR in the top of the pic.

The one in the middle of the picture with the Mitsubishi symbol on the top of the knob.

No clue man. Stick to the status quo I guess. I suck at wiring, so I figured it best to follow how it was down originally rather than get myself in trouble. In the words of Garth, "we fear change".:rofl:

lmfao, awesome man. Well, it's well done just like everything else, so props. Did you start this thing yet? :P

That's your PRC valve for hot restarts or you VICS solenoid. You can remove it or not.
You don't have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

EDIT: Yeah that's the VICS in your case

FPR has no wires to it only a vacuum line.

No clue on first start time dude. I still need to:
-Fix all the wiring issues with the MS3
-Wire in the new analog AEM AFR/Boost gauge
-Hook the intercooler up
-Probably need to order new silicone pipes since the intercooler is so much wider and the intake manifold piping has a lot of pin holes in the metal(soft steel).
-put the dash in once I finish the wiring.
-Actually put some gas in the tank.
-Pray to god that my battery isn't flat after sitting there for 5 months(probably need to put it on a battery tender)

So.. sometime this afternoon then?

JK, but I'm stoked to see this thing run soon. I can taste it.

Don't remove it :)
That's the VICS solenoid and you need it if you want to operate the flaps in the IM.

That same solenoid is used as a PRC depending on the engine...

Man, the engine shots took me a minute to figure exactly what was going on there... BP4W with CAS, M-Tuned fuel rail and stock FPR? Is that right? Not enough coffee yet this morning.

If the above is the case, is that a FM adapter to 1.6 TB with the On/Off TPS?

You FPR is the cylindrical object with the silver and blue sticker bolted to the fuel rail. It's got a vacuum line coming out of it. I'm actually wondering what FPR that is, because the 4W does not have a return with a regulator under the hood. As stated before, the thing with the Mitsubishi symbol on it is the VICS solenoid, but that's not a knob AFAIK. ;)

It's probably the stock NA regulator.

Our NA8 has the same exact setup. BP4W, CAS, M-Tuned rail, stock FPR.

Andd..... COPs, for that matter. Jeff, i suppose this means that if you run into issues, i might be able to help since it looks like our setups are identical.

Yup BP4W with CAS, M-tuned rail and as Concealer said, stock regulator.

And yes, a VICS 99 intake manifold with the Flyin' Miata adapter. Not sure about the on/off TPS

The knob turns so in my head it is a knob!

Concealer, that makes me happier to know another COP setup is like mine. Takes some of the nervousness out of the equation.

Playing around with the intake manifold piping it seems like there is no way in hell I'm going to be able to squeeze the radiator piping/throttle body piping etc etc between the roll bar/radiator fans.

How many have used a thick piece of steel and clocked the radiator a little bit more vertical? Doesn't seem like it would be too difficult to even modify the OEM radiator side rails. If I had an inch or two more space I could do a lot cleaner of a setup, or at least not worry about things being jammed up against each other.

I mean just look at that jumble of pipes in the original car...gotta be a better way!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394470759

Does any vendor make a one piece silicone hose with a 90 degree bend, then 2 foot straight, then another 90 degree bend? Or should I just get a straight aluminum pipe and 2 90 degree elbows. The aluminum seems to make the most sense in my head due to the need for the BOV bung.

Since you ditched the AC, you don't need the passenger-side radiator fan anymore -- unless you are rewiring for a dual-fan setup. That might buy you some room. Check out the pics on some of Emilio's cars (Crusher and the 95R). You'll see that he only uses the driver-side main cooling fan -- which is how Mazda delivered non-AC cars.

Hmm interesting. That would give me tons of space.

I was going to rewire for dual fans but if one is really only necessary...hmmm. Need to think about that one.

I'm not 100% sure if the COP setup is the same as ours. Just that the setup in general is. :bowrofl:

Toyota Denso cops on ours, running full sequential.

Don't know what that FM adapter is doing, though? We don't have that.

VICS also isn't hooked up yet, need to do something about that. You know... because i need to spool a GT2554R even faster.

Who knows....especially since it is a 99 I.M., seems like it shouldn't be necessary anymore now that I think about it.

Spool faster! Always better!

Jesus, I keep looking at the original cars engine bay....looks like someone just vomited parts into the bay(no offense intended Dave:giggle:). It's only when I look at the original car, when I realize just how far it has come. The car has probably lost over 50+ lbs in just dirt build up.

I remember when I was pressure washing the shell in the driveway dirt just kept pouring off of it for a couple hours. Took me another hour just to clean off the garage doors, the driveway, and the street. I regret nothing!

Ben, I think they are running wasted spark, not sequential.

Also, you do not need any more tire spinning spool. It is stupid enough...

Hrmm.... i need to jack into this thing this week and figure it all out.

And yes. There's VICS. It must be hooked up. More power.

That's a 1.6 throttle body, adapted to the '99 intake. That engine never came with pop up headlights ;)

You could get a '99 throttle body to free up an inch or so.

LOL same setup here, but OEM bp4w fuel rail.

Is the cost worth the benefit of an AFPR? I haven't read up on them...at all. Or is it one of those, "minor things" that add to the refinement of your tuning.

So do you suggest removing the fan or keeping it? In my minds eye I see more cooling as never a bad thing. Though, if Emilio doesn't run one, logic would suggest otherwise.

I need to do more research on these small things...

...

Not necessary unless you find yourself needing more fuel pressure for whatever reason.

Don't see any reason in your setup for it, so... save the money. :)

What size injectors do you have again?

The only real reason you would need a AFPR is if you run out of fuel in boost (injector DC) so if the injectors are anything other than stock, you should be fine with the OEM 1:1 regulator. I doubt Dave would have cheaped out on injectors. Fuggedaboudit and get back to obsessively cleaning things ;)

except of course when your pump overwhelms your stocker.

That's just bonus fuel.

Dave definitely didn't do things half-ass when it came to assembling the right components.

Car has 750cc RC injectors

LOL
RC is junk

I stand corrected!:rofl:

With that information some ID1000's are on the way!;)


Nah...maybe another time.

Nice edit ;)

The car's forward motion provides ample airflow for the radiator (assuming good sealing). The fans are there for idling in traffic. And they don't do a very good job at that.

I'm not saying you need to change em out asap, but yeah they are pretty much on the lowest/crappy end of the injector hierarchy.

And don't you dare get anything but ev14's. If you get DW I'll fly down there to choke you.

DW's for the Miata are now EV14's. (1000's anyways). They were out of stock for 3 months. When I called my rep he said the replacements are the EV series.

So how are the EV14's better than ID1k and about $1-200 cheaper? Made with less unicorn shit?

They are all EV. Except all their plug and play versions are EV6.
I did see that they sell "universal" EV14 injectors, so I'm guessing you're talking about those. If they are as perfectly matched as ID and FIC I would probably try em, but until then, I stick to ID and FIC and tell everyone else to do the same.

I can buy bosch EV14 injectors for like 50 bux a pop if I wanted to. But they are not the same. They might "work", but I've tuned enough of these different injectors to know that its not even close to the same.

In Dave's defense (not that I even know the guy :giggle:) the RC's were probably the "known quantity" drop-in fitment injectors on the market at the time. Remember when you guys kept telling people to buy RX7 Reds?

EVxx is the footprint. The RCs you have now are 1970's tech era EV1 "squirtgun" injectors, same hardware as the RX7 460s that everyone was running 3-4 years ago. EV14 is the new hotness: super low latency, high flow, better atomization, you name it and the EV14 does better in every way compared to the EV1 (Except for maybe price, if you are Braineack.) The older DW injectors were Denso style or EV6, I can't keep it straight. Better than EV1 but not as good as EV14.

Brand Names: ID = Injector Dynamics, FIC = Fuel Injector Clinic, DW = DeatschWerks.

The ID and FIC Miata injectors are custom flow matched EV14 style injectors. ID1000 is pretty much "internet slang" in Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors. If I'm reading the above correctly, the new DWs are EV14, and that's a good thing.

The extra $$$ in the ID product is for the super low latency dynamic matching or whatever they call it. Check out ID's website, they can explain it far better than I can. This is one of the things that can let you have "better than factory" idle with such a massive injector on a relatively tiny displacement engine. I don't NEED 1000cc of fuel on tap because I don't have access to E85 and won't in the foreseeable future. The FIC650s I'll be running on CA91 pump gas will have plenty of headroom with my tiny 2560.

TL;DR: If you are going to spend money on injectors you will buy ID or FIC or we will find you and hurt you.

:bowdown:

Props. That summed up things perfectly.

I want to say it is ridiculous how much you know about these things, but if we were talking about the baking of bread the conversation would be similar.

No seriously, the amount of information on this forum is simply staggering. I spend most of my workday chained to a desk waiting around for things, so I do A LOT of reading. When I find something I don't understand, I look it up and learn about that. This is one of the reason we give noobs so much hell for not using the search feature. IT'S ALL HERE SOMEWHERE they just have to make the effort to look.

Bread is made from flour, right? Flour is what you get when your rollers are too tight on the mill and then you end up with a stuck sparge when mashing, and that's no good for anyone.

Am I close? :rofl:

Too true on the massive amount of information on this forum. I have never read another car forum with the amount of quality well read contributors...ever.

Saying that, there is so much information, and my lack thereof, makes it hard to sift through it/understand. Even though I've torn apart 2 Miata and rebuilt this one to the level I have, I haven't had time to get a good baseline on the info. Sink or swim should be the alternate title to this.

I have no idea how I have even gotten as far as I have. Probably because or said treasure trove this site has. That and because you objective assholes are too nice to me. Seriously, no way in hell, overlooking my work ethic and insanity, I could have assembled this car correctly.

:cjerk:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394498096

Your sparge simile is close but if your granite rollers are too close together you are going to get some minerals in your flour that may chip a tooth...and also denature the protein in the flour due to overheating it causing your yeast to not be able to eat those tasty sugars and further causing your bread to turn out as dense and flat as a brick...

*cough*

Anyways...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394498096

Here, here.

I've never really done anything but I can pretend like I know what I'm doing because of hours and hours of reading. :giggle:

Fake it til you make it. I'll actually DO something soon! :party:

Can't wait to see this going Jeff. You're almost there!!