Coincidentally I called you today to inquire about downpipe and turbo manifold options. Motor is in pieces in my basement.

You did? We don't have any turbo bits though. But if you want to get it off the bilsteins and onto Xidas, we're your guys :)

Good luck with the project, man. Was bummed I couldn't reach Jeff while I was living in st george, he stopped responding to my messages. Hope he's doing OK.

I bought the car from him In March and my dad and I did a fun road trip towing it out to Michigan where I live. I’m sorry he didn’t get back to you that’s frustrating. I’m reverse engineering this jigsaw puzzle with no support and no info beside the build thread. The car sits as last you saw minus an engine. I like vdubs and porsches. My background is air cooled 911’s and bugs and busses. . I hope Jeff gets to a place where he can communicate again. In the mean time I’m just now picking up a 1.8 crank from a 94 with 150k miles in preparation to take the block and parts to the machine shop. It will live again. Going for a quick 400hp street/track build.
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Nice to see pics of it! Sounds like a fun build, and cool garage with the westy and bus.

Good vibes to Jeff.

Thanks man. I’ve saved every photo from this build thread and have a notes page going. I’m starting to read other turbo build threads as well. Definitely drinking from the firehose. Machine shop will be building the short block for me. #goodvibestojeff

Ha, old VW's and Miatas seem to go well with each other. I own a 1984 Westy Wolfsburg Edition and a 1973 Superbeetle too....

Progress
 

Hey dudes. Quick update. Dropped off the block, head, and used 1.8 crank I got locally at the machine shop in Ann Arbor 4 weeks ago. Everyone is 4-6 weeks out or more during this busy summer season. They called yesterday with an update. Crank is within spec just a quick polish. Wiseco forged pistons were out of round and scored so I have a set of 84.5mm being shipped to the shop and they can finish that. Deck both head and block and hot tank. Rebuild head and lifters should be good to go in a week or two. I ordered some rather important bits. Fab9 top mount manifold, down pipe and EFR 6758 all V-band. Much excite. Any recommendations on head gasket choice? I do have a factory Mazda HG on the shelf. Planning on the coolant reroute. Thoughts?
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Cancel Fab9 order, go with Kraken.

Well shit….it seemed like a nice bit of kit and what Jeff had run. I saw the kraken kit and maybe the log manifold would be more robust? There’s a kraken top-side and low mount which one and from which vendor?

What happened to the previous Fab9 kit that was on the car? Did it get sold?

A nice cast manifold will always be more durable than a fabricated bundle of snakes. :)

I'm not sure which Kraken thing fits the EFR, might check his site for which kit to order, he should have ways to order listed there.

Yeah Jeff sold all of it. Still have the TSE radiator and fans and the intercooler. So just trying to go with a good option 5 years later.

Got it.

If you're starting over, I would also go to Kraken.

Thank you sir. I should have consulted the wise ones before purchasing.

Kraken looks like they just got a ton of manifolds shipped. This is a link to their FB page where they posted about the shipment they just recieved. They have EFR specific fitments with downpipes here for the side mount and here for the bottom mount. Technically the bottom mount is better for heat management/exhaust routing but is a bit more fiddly getting things like heater hoses and PS pumps to fit. The side mount is essentially the easy button.

A quick edit: At one point Fab9 was a dealer for Kraken in the US. You may be able to get the Kraken stuff from Bryan if you already have an order through him.

At this point, from what I've seen around here at least, I think you're a lot better off ordering directly from Kraken.

Fab9 haven't shipped you anything, should certainly still be able to cancel things.

I took the advice and ordered the kraken manifold and downpipe. Ordered an EFR 6758 and they sent me a 6258.....details matter I guess bleh. Ordered all new OEM Mazda seals and a cometic 40mm head gasket to make up for the 10thou they took off. I got the block and head back from the machine shop....said the seats were out of round so 3 angle grind and resurfaced the head. Pistons were scored along the side as well as out of round due to Jeff's turbo implosion....with the cylinders so bumped up to 84.5mm wisecos. Taped off and painted with VHT satin black caliper paint this afternoon in 90° heat and 60% humidity. Box fan for the win. Going to measure Piston ring Gap tomorrow....it's happening!
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Progress. All alone. Whahhhhhh....

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Horrible work environment.

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Arp studs cleaned and regreased, cometic mls HG, head on and torqued 20-40-60. Valve cover really ties the room together.

It appears you are doing some very nice work there sir, well done. :likecat:

He
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hey all. Seeking advice on the assembly of this CNC sandwich plate for the coolant reroute. I've looked everywhere for the right combination of sealant/o-rings/factory gaskets all of which I have to seal this back section on the head up. All of the above? Sealant alone? Factory gaskets between each surface? Factory diagram just shows a gasket.
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Does the green built in "o-ring" fit into the grooves in the block? Does the thermostat sit into the sandwich plate dry? Lol so many variables. I r not smart.

I would upgrade to supermiata’a q-max, I’ve installed a dozen or more of those spacer reroutes, and some of those more than once. It’s a much better design for installation and much easier to install without leaks. You need the gaskets for the spacer, or you won’t be able to get the hose on.

Indian Head gasket shellac. Best stuff for water pumps and fittings.

That does look like a great design and some video comparisons say it's the best option. Ordered. Thanks dude!

Seems like a lot of great builds have been sold and shipped to people in SE Michigan. Glad to see this one made it here and hope it will be on Woodward soon!

Also, sweet Westy Vanagon! I love the post '86 ones with the square headlights, is it a full camper or weekender? I inherited an '85 full camper a decade ago, I just need the time and space to start restoring it and getting it back on the road.

Thanks man! Yeah I plan on going to Woodward when it's done. Yeah the westy is a full camper. Just redid everything below the water line this spring. Powdercoated all the arms, new bearings, hand formed all new hardlines, 2 inch lift, all new poly bushings, big brake kit front disc conversion rear, and 15" Ko2s. New fuel tank and lines, vacuum lines, Subaru conversion, shortened oil pan, LSD incoming this winter and she'll be unstoppable for a 2wd van. haha. If you need any advice when the time comes to fix yours up let me know.

A thing of beauty!
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Smart man. There’s nothing wrong with the spacer setup, it’s the best reroute kit after the SM(og)/FM reroute, thermostat actually reacts quickly vs. remote setups. But if you can afford it, the bleeder screw, npt sensor location, and front cover options are great features.

With the built in bypass hole, it does run a little cold, but with global warming, we all shouldn’t have to worry about that for long.

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Not to worry indeed. Thanks for the recommendation!I installed the ATI damper and set timing and torqued down all the components tonight. Feels so rewarding to get the rest of the long block completed. As far as these torx 40 + bolts on the front of the damper. Anyone have a torque value for them? I know blue lock Tite but I need to buy the driver and I can't nail down a torque figure for those three random torx bolts on the front.

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Behold. It is done. Goin on the hoist tonight. Stage two FM clutch and six speed are goin on tonight.

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Ready to insert. Took a lot longer doing all the fiddly bits like finding bolts for engine mounts and the starter. Clutch was slightly not centered so had to redo that and attempt the trans again. Much cursing was had. Putting away all the tools and bags and tornado of parts, getting the bus off the lift and reorganizing and pushing all the cars around took way too long. Imma call it and install tomorrow. Phew!
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Whoah, what a trip to see that car again! Great work.

Is it…is it in?
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Nice progress! Must be stressful working on such a clean car, lol.

+1:p

I'm also impressed with the clean garage & the room to work:cool:

Rich.

All I’m waiting for now is kraken manifold and downpipe to finish. Everything else is done. Drained gas today wow it was smelly, bought brake fluid ate 200, coolant (mazda), and some motor craft trans oil.
after flushing all the fluids and installing manifold and turbo it’s start time.
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Can't wait :likecat:

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New fuel filter and lines installed. Short shift and center console installed trans fluid flushed with the special sauce. New slave cylinder and fluid flushed and bled. Manifold comes tomorrow. Turbowwwwwwww powahhhhhhhwwwwwhttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...68e26b4e0.jpeg
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New fuel filter and lines
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Kraken manifold came! And so did I! Giggity.
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Slave cylinder fluid should not look like this…
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Downpipe is beautiful!
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Everything finally installed except some vacuum lines and coolant lines.
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6 lb lithium ion battery. I thought delivery guy was punking me when he handed me the box.
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Hood back on and finally ready….not in keeping with Jeff fashion car is in a fine state of shop filth after a few months of being on the lift. I’m soweee
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Finally everything done ready for first start. Nervous as fuck…

Great choice with the Kraken setup. I love mine, it's beefy as fuck, and has held up to a lot of track abuse.

Stoked for updates and to see this thing running. It's going to be a ripper for sure.

Dude and the downpipe. It fit so perfectly I literally heard the vband just go *click* mated to the midpipe and stayed without a clamp. So good.

Video proof I’m not dreaming. I feel so proud at the moment. Dayumn it all came together.

First start:

First drive:

Goddamn it feels good to see Jeff's car moving again. That underside shot is ridiculous, I forgot how clean that thing is.

Congrats man, great work. :likecat:

Thanks dude. Definitely feeling good about the whole process. Learned a LOT. Tuning next.

Awesomely done! Reminder that lots of engine braking is required for a good ring seat, and don't be afraid to get some RPMs in there and a little bit of boost (part throttle). Break in happens quickly and you don't want to limp it too much. This is of course IMO, so do your own research, everyone has different ideas on this.

That’s what I have read as well. I’m running the old tune from Jeff’s previous iteration. Only thing different is that it’s a 6758 instead of a 6258 and different manifold and downpipe. I feel like it’s reasonably safe to drive it and break it in as you’ve suggested. Tuner is 6-8 weeks out and by that time it’s winter :( sigh….Michigan. Fab 9 tuning is only an hour away and a week out but I have to rent a trailer and two hour round trip to get there. Decisions…

First drive while not…ya know pouring rain at night. Going easy barely into boost AFRs look good. Full tune incoming next week. The noises and torque. Omg….

Initial tune on 93 at conservative 18 PSI. Quite pleased at that torque curve already max at 3500 with a 7800 redline. So much room for activities. I told him to prioritize torque at low RPMs and to keep power below 300 for reliability and drivetrain. I get home in a few days for first drive on a proper tune vid incoming.

I don't remember, what's done to the head? 7800rpm sounds like a lot for a street car, and you can see from the Dyno sheet it's not making power up there. If it were mine I'd drop it to 7200 or maybe 7400 rpm.

Peak HP numbers seem a lil light for 18 psi on a 6258 but it is super meaty down low!

Supertech double titanium valve springs otherwise stock head.

It's the EFR 6758...I told him to keep it below 300 hp and just tune for as much early grunt as possible. You're saying all things being equal with proper fuel at 18 psi most are seeing higher than that?

Oh. Yeah, I mean unless he's tapering boost off deliberately to keep it under 300 like you requested that thing should be making well over 300 with that turbo at that boost pressure, pretty much without even trying. Although this is a BP5A head right? Still don't think that would be enough to hold it back that much. If he's just retarding timing to hold back power then you're gonna melt some exhaust valves to retard it enough to keep it under 300 at that PSI.

But it also depends on dyno settings. Is this a notoriously low-reading dyno? stuff like that.

Agreed on 7800 being high for normal use if it's got a stock valve train.

JEM sport appears to be a Mustang dyno, which vary a lot from unit to unit. There's no good way to compare the hard numbers without running the same car with the same tune in the same conditions on a dynojet. Overall shape of the curve looks about right, peak hp is 6% higher than peak torque which tells you the torque is holding reasonably well into the high revs.

--Ian

It's an AWD dyno and a friend of mine was pretty disappointed with his power output on his STI from the same dyno. The head is a BP4W. I'll have to ask him what is going on when I go to pick up the car. I'll ask him for the logs of the dyno and see if I can post them here.

At this point I'm expecting he was tapering boost down to keep it under 300.

Or it's just reading different like Ian said.

Either way, bet it drives beastly with that much torque in the midrange.

Assuming stock cams, the torque curve looks like flat boost to me. I think it's just dyno calibration.

--Ian

You think? It just tapers so much after 5k, I wouldn't expect a 6758 on a BP4W to do that so much.

Part of that perception is because you're looking at the 7800 RPM cutoff whereas most people stop their dynos at 7000 or 7200. Stock cams drop a lot above 7000. Peak torque at 5100 or so is around 260 (it's higher at 3600 but that looks like a boost spike). Torque at 7000 RPM looks to be around 210, that's a 16% drop.

Comparing that to Aidan's 6758 dyno (https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-tim...58-dyno-93877/) he's got peak torque also around 5100 RPM (that's the stock cams) and visually smoothing out the spark breakup in the dyno there it looks to be around 320 ft-lbs, vs 260 at 7000. 60 ft-lb drop is 19%, which is actually more than this one.

My car (not an EFR) has a 13% drop between those two values at 20-ish psi, but I've got a P&P head, and oversize valves. I think 16% for a stock head is fine.

--Ian