93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
#141
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 6,609
Total Cats: 567
but the fact of the matter is, that is a $600 hardtop with a $300 miata attached. Go look at it nao.
#142
Waiting on a reply from the seller. No number was given with the ad so it is a waiting game of emails. I left my phone number just in case. 10 hours away but if I fix the cooling issue and the battery ground it should drive home ok.
Pretty sure it would just need new coolant for an issue like that correct?
Pretty sure it would just need new coolant for an issue like that correct?
#143
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 6,609
Total Cats: 567
Waiting on a reply from the seller. No number was given with the ad so it is a waiting game of emails. I left my phone number just in case. 10 hours away but if I fix the cooling issue and the battery ground it should drive home ok.
Pretty sure it would just need new coolant for an issue like that correct?
Pretty sure it would just need new coolant for an issue like that correct?
Honestly though, you could probably fix it and drive it home. Just really depends on what exactly is wrong, the condition of the car, etc. That's a long way, so make sure you get a ton of detailed pics of the shell so that you don't get there and find a POS.
#144
"The cooling system needs work. It was in working order only two days ago, but just yesterday had a problem and steam came out from behind the engine. Note it was steam, not smoke. It has not been run since, so the engine will not have been affected."
I'm guessing the coolant pipe popped off the engine block. So probably just need to replace the rear temperature sensor and put a new hose/clamp on the block.
The battery ground corrosion is an easy fix.
I'm guessing the coolant pipe popped off the engine block. So probably just need to replace the rear temperature sensor and put a new hose/clamp on the block.
The battery ground corrosion is an easy fix.
#145
IDK what you would have to pay to get it shipped to you, but like Fireindc said, it's a $600 hardtop on a $300 Miata. And even if the engine is overheated and warped to ****, you can get $150 for the 5-speed and $150 for the (presumably open) 1.8 diff. So that's your $900 before you even start a serious part out.
#147
"The cooling system needs work. It was in working order only two days ago, but just yesterday had a problem and steam came out from behind the engine. Note it was steam, not smoke. It has not been run since, so the engine will not have been affected."
I'm guessing the coolant pipe popped off the engine block. So probably just need to replace the rear temperature sensor and put a new hose/clamp on the block.
The battery ground corrosion is an easy fix.
I'm guessing the coolant pipe popped off the engine block. So probably just need to replace the rear temperature sensor and put a new hose/clamp on the block.
The battery ground corrosion is an easy fix.
#150
I'm guessing if I get the Inconol manifold stud kit from TSE I'll have to drill the holes wider for the M10 bolts to work with the ARTech manifold correct?
If so I'm going to wait to send the manifold and turbo to the machine shop to get them milled flat until I get the stud kit from them. Or can I just tell them the bolt size and hope for the best...
If so I'm going to wait to send the manifold and turbo to the machine shop to get them milled flat until I get the stud kit from them. Or can I just tell them the bolt size and hope for the best...
#151
I'm guessing if I get the Inconol manifold stud kit from TSE I'll have to drill the holes wider for the M10 bolts to work with the ARTech manifold correct?
If so I'm going to wait to send the manifold and turbo to the machine shop to get them milled flat until I get the stud kit from them. Or can I just tell them the bolt size and hope for the best...
If so I'm going to wait to send the manifold and turbo to the machine shop to get them milled flat until I get the stud kit from them. Or can I just tell them the bolt size and hope for the best...
#155
I put those receipts in the mail yesterday.
I must say, it's a bit nerve racking to have every inch of your build inspected by the world. I hope no one is thinking "Holy sh*t, who did you buy that from?" Lol
What's that little hole near the oil feed next to the x 3/4?
No doubt, your build is going to be badass!
I must say, it's a bit nerve racking to have every inch of your build inspected by the world. I hope no one is thinking "Holy sh*t, who did you buy that from?" Lol
What's that little hole near the oil feed next to the x 3/4?
No doubt, your build is going to be badass!
#156
I put those receipts in the mail yesterday.
I must say, it's a bit nerve racking to have every inch of your build inspected by the world. I hope no one is thinking "Holy sh*t, who did you buy that from?" Lol
What's that little hole near the oil feed next to the x 3/4?
No doubt, your build is going to be badass!
I must say, it's a bit nerve racking to have every inch of your build inspected by the world. I hope no one is thinking "Holy sh*t, who did you buy that from?" Lol
What's that little hole near the oil feed next to the x 3/4?
No doubt, your build is going to be badass!
The hole is just the bolt hole for the oil drain bung connection.
There was a lot of build up on the banjo bolt and banjo housing for the oil feed line. Cleaned it up with a pipe brush. Think I may pull the compressor wheel off and inspect the inside to see if there is a build up in the turbo as well.
#159
Sent the turbo and the downpipe to the machine shop today.
Plan of attack is this:
-Mill flanges flat
-mill exhaust manifold flat
-Drill out exhaust manifold turbo flange to M10x1.5 to accept TSE Inconel studs
-chase threads on the rest of the bolt holes to clean out oxidation
-drill out broken bolt.
Question on the turbo though. On the bottom of the ring covering the bearings where you see the grit. It sounds like there is quite a bit of sand or dirt in it when I spin the spacer.
Should I get the Garret repair kit to disassemble and clean it to ensure there is nothing nasty in it? Is this something I myself am capable of doing or should I send the turbo to a shop to rebuild it?
Or am I just being too nervous? Just want to make sure I don't have to worry about this stuff in 6 months or so.
Plan of attack is this:
-Mill flanges flat
-mill exhaust manifold flat
-Drill out exhaust manifold turbo flange to M10x1.5 to accept TSE Inconel studs
-chase threads on the rest of the bolt holes to clean out oxidation
-drill out broken bolt.
Question on the turbo though. On the bottom of the ring covering the bearings where you see the grit. It sounds like there is quite a bit of sand or dirt in it when I spin the spacer.
Should I get the Garret repair kit to disassemble and clean it to ensure there is nothing nasty in it? Is this something I myself am capable of doing or should I send the turbo to a shop to rebuild it?
Or am I just being too nervous? Just want to make sure I don't have to worry about this stuff in 6 months or so.
#160
Also a question to those who are much smarter than me. Why is there a 1.5" block on the downpipe separating the wastegate dump from the turbine? Better flow for the down-pipe? It is a divorced downpipe so that is what makes sense in my head but seeing as the flow convergence shouldn't affect it that much I still can't see why the extra effort is needed to separate the two.