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Old 10-28-2013, 02:39 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
If it is bad I have the trunk latch/trunk lid/bumper from this one that are in perfect condition...well albeit some scratches.
As long as the rear 1/4 itself is straight and the cause of the mal-alignment is the trunk lid itself.

but the fact of the matter is, that is a $600 hardtop with a $300 miata attached. Go look at it nao.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:35 PM   #142
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Waiting on a reply from the seller. No number was given with the ad so it is a waiting game of emails. I left my phone number just in case. 10 hours away but if I fix the cooling issue and the battery ground it should drive home ok.

Pretty sure it would just need new coolant for an issue like that correct?
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:46 PM   #143
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Waiting on a reply from the seller. No number was given with the ad so it is a waiting game of emails. I left my phone number just in case. 10 hours away but if I fix the cooling issue and the battery ground it should drive home ok.

Pretty sure it would just need new coolant for an issue like that correct?
Sounds like it could work, as long as you have AAA coverage on it. Then if you blow up 100 miles into the drive back you could just get towed the rest of the way

Honestly though, you could probably fix it and drive it home. Just really depends on what exactly is wrong, the condition of the car, etc. That's a long way, so make sure you get a ton of detailed pics of the shell so that you don't get there and find a POS.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:58 PM   #144
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"The cooling system needs work. It was in working order only two days ago, but just yesterday had a problem and steam came out from behind the engine. Note it was steam, not smoke. It has not been run since, so the engine will not have been affected."

I'm guessing the coolant pipe popped off the engine block. So probably just need to replace the rear temperature sensor and put a new hose/clamp on the block.

The battery ground corrosion is an easy fix.
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:02 PM   #145
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IDK what you would have to pay to get it shipped to you, but like Fireindc said, it's a $600 hardtop on a $300 Miata. And even if the engine is overheated and warped to ****, you can get $150 for the 5-speed and $150 for the (presumably open) 1.8 diff. So that's your $900 before you even start a serious part out.
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:48 PM   #146
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If the seller does contact me I got a quote for around $4-500, which is about what gas/ticket/parts would cost. So I think especially for peace of mind(and I have no time) I'll just ship it to my house and commence the stripping.
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:11 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
"The cooling system needs work. It was in working order only two days ago, but just yesterday had a problem and steam came out from behind the engine. Note it was steam, not smoke. It has not been run since, so the engine will not have been affected."

I'm guessing the coolant pipe popped off the engine block. So probably just need to replace the rear temperature sensor and put a new hose/clamp on the block.

The battery ground corrosion is an easy fix.
Rear heater hose going out is pretty common, the CAS o-ring leaks oil onto the hose, and that's the one that usually leaks first. Happened to me right after I got mine.
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:05 AM   #148
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I felt it was pretty close to sacrilege to put filthy parts on a new shell so I broke out the power washer and purple power and went to town. Couple rust spots I need to put some POR15 on to kill it before it gets worse.

Turned out better than I thought it would.











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93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_0397.jpg  
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:58 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slider View Post
Rear heater hose going out is pretty common, the CAS o-ring leaks oil onto the hose, and that's the one that usually leaks first. Happened to me right after I got mine.
On a 1.6 . . . cursed water plug! Look it up. Happens all the time.
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Old 10-29-2013, 03:17 PM   #150
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I'm guessing if I get the Inconol manifold stud kit from TSE I'll have to drill the holes wider for the M10 bolts to work with the ARTech manifold correct?

If so I'm going to wait to send the manifold and turbo to the machine shop to get them milled flat until I get the stud kit from them. Or can I just tell them the bolt size and hope for the best...
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:12 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
I'm guessing if I get the Inconol manifold stud kit from TSE I'll have to drill the holes wider for the M10 bolts to work with the ARTech manifold correct?

If so I'm going to wait to send the manifold and turbo to the machine shop to get them milled flat until I get the stud kit from them. Or can I just tell them the bolt size and hope for the best...
They should be able to drill and tap without having the studs. I think the stud kit is 10x1.5, just tell them to drill and tap for that and you're good.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:05 PM   #152
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I could strip the goodies off mine and sell it for ~$2K with HT...
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:56 PM   #153
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I'm hoping it wasn't one of those craigslist ads that the person forgets about. Still no response.
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Old 10-29-2013, 06:24 PM   #154
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Just inspecting the turbo before I decide to do work on it.

oil feed looks a little gummed up


Small amount of oil on the face




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93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_0409_0153.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_0401_0145.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_0408_0152.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_0404_0148_edited-1.jpg  
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:34 PM   #155
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I put those receipts in the mail yesterday.

I must say, it's a bit nerve racking to have every inch of your build inspected by the world. I hope no one is thinking "Holy sh*t, who did you buy that from?" Lol

What's that little hole near the oil feed next to the x 3/4?

No doubt, your build is going to be badass!
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:45 PM   #156
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I put those receipts in the mail yesterday.

I must say, it's a bit nerve racking to have every inch of your build inspected by the world. I hope no one is thinking "Holy sh*t, who did you buy that from?" Lol

What's that little hole near the oil feed next to the x 3/4?

No doubt, your build is going to be badass!
David I don't want to imply that you are to blame for anything either. Any problems I find or have found I don't blame you for. **** happens.

The hole is just the bolt hole for the oil drain bung connection.

There was a lot of build up on the banjo bolt and banjo housing for the oil feed line. Cleaned it up with a pipe brush. Think I may pull the compressor wheel off and inspect the inside to see if there is a build up in the turbo as well.
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Old 10-30-2013, 05:53 AM   #157
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wow. this thread was a roller coaster.
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:03 AM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
I must say, it's a bit nerve racking to have every inch of your build inspected by the world. I hope no one is thinking "Holy sh*t, who did you buy that from?" Lol
I was mostly thinking "clean car . . . well done." Plus, the mythical SD coilovers!!
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:25 PM   #159
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Sent the turbo and the downpipe to the machine shop today.

Plan of attack is this:
-Mill flanges flat
-mill exhaust manifold flat
-Drill out exhaust manifold turbo flange to M10x1.5 to accept TSE Inconel studs
-chase threads on the rest of the bolt holes to clean out oxidation
-drill out broken bolt.

Question on the turbo though. On the bottom of the ring covering the bearings where you see the grit. It sounds like there is quite a bit of sand or dirt in it when I spin the spacer.

Should I get the Garret repair kit to disassemble and clean it to ensure there is nothing nasty in it? Is this something I myself am capable of doing or should I send the turbo to a shop to rebuild it?

Or am I just being too nervous? Just want to make sure I don't have to worry about this stuff in 6 months or so.



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Old 10-30-2013, 06:56 PM   #160
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Also a question to those who are much smarter than me. Why is there a 1.5" block on the downpipe separating the wastegate dump from the turbine? Better flow for the down-pipe? It is a divorced downpipe so that is what makes sense in my head but seeing as the flow convergence shouldn't affect it that much I still can't see why the extra effort is needed to separate the two.
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