I've gotten used to my door bars. It's only hard to get in and out if the parking is tight...

Why not use your welder to make a flange solution?
My bars attach with 7 bolts and can be taken out in a minute or two.

 

doublepostdoubletrouble

 

I don't think there's an easy or safe way to give you a number for what's typical. It's going to depend on what you hit, or what hits you, and how fast you're going/it's going, and how much your car weighs/it weighs, how much energy your car absorbs before and during loading on the side bars.

 

I want real door bars. Like NASCAR style door bars.

Bolts are an option too. But a quick disconnect would be awesome. I still try and keep track prep to a minimum. If its drop in 4 pins, instead of 10 bolts a side or something that would be awesome.

 

I guess I should have asked max force. Or what forces are are top level cages designed to withstand?

 

I don't know chassis/cage design, I can't help you there. If you're serious about it, I'd say pay someone who knows how to do it. If you gotta be cheap, buy a couple books on cage design and then build your own.

For my 99, my goal for it one day is to pay someone to put a cage in it that's street friendly. I can weld and fab stuff, but for a cage I'll probably have a pro do it.

 

From this thread Some interesting brake information (tech!) - MX-5 Miata Forum

Looks like I can take my booster from the 01 car. And add a 929 master to get a 1 inch master cylinder.

And its only $25!!! Way cheaper than the miata one.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...nid=618&jpid=0

Can anyone confirm this before I pull the trigger.

@bbundy?

 

I have been using a 1" 929 master on an NB booster for a long time now.

 

Exactly what I wanted to hear. Does the one that look like the right one? Its from an 88 3.0v6. All the other models were out of stock.

I like $25 masters.

 

I am sending you a master from a 99 as well.

 

 

How come they all say 7/8ths? Which 929 is it from?

Figured it out. 1992 was the first 1" master according to rockauto. Damn. $73

Can anyone tell the difference between the w/ABS and w/o ABS?

$25 price difference but looks like the same amount of outlets and same size bore.

 

A set of poly bushings are only like $130 and last basically forever compared to the like once a year or two replacement schedule of delrin. I also dont want delrin in either LCA inners because of binding in caster/toe. Poly for me is really a hold over till I drop the $1000 it costs to build an all spherical setup.

Most of the friction is on the pivot. If you are worried about friction on the face you could do some more fanagaling and get some bronze thrust washers in there too. But there should be a slight clearance fit between the faces of the bushings and the pockets they go into after you clamp onto the steel spacer.

 

My cheap $130 poly bushings might need some cleanup. I remember having to fight to get the front lowers in.

They still rotate free enough though, I know because I just did lower balljoints a few weeks ago. The lower arm will stay where it is against gravity, but it doesn't take much force to move it.

Maybe I'll take apart the rears and look at them closer, I think that's where most the squeak comes from.

 

With the inserts won't delrin last forever? Because the wear is on the bronze sleeve?

Also greased the delrin should last a while.

Headlight project = success. Much much success.

Wired it up to the battery to test. Much sight distance. This is with halogens. I will be running HIDs.



Slides right into the hole. Needs trimming





Light output vs HID in Hella housing (**** me right)





Now drill holes



Drill from the front to fit a screw driver in.



Put some screws and springs in for adjustment





Pull apart turn signal. (hope the tint doesnt screw up the light output too bad. If it does ill get clears)



Lights off:



BAM

 

I wonder, would the light output be better if you mount them outside the bumper support? Are they too long?

Looks good!

 

I don't think they would fit. I might try that. I like how I didn't have to build a top bracket.

I still get the cutoff and a surprising amount of light in front of the car.

I can't move the car right now or else I would test them outside.

 

nice light write up. that's something I always wanted to do but never got around to.

 

When I finish the wiring and turn signal I'll post a full writeup.

 

If you just need it a quick drop in for the occasional track day then I would do bolts since you van have 1-2 bolts per connection that will be way stronger. I would only do the clevis with quick release pin if you need to remove the bar to get in and out of the car or something like that.


If you make the bolted joints like the ones in the Yamaha Rhino link and you make them beefy enough to fit your 1.5 or 1.75" DOM bar they should be plenty strong enough, I would even make the bolted joint part larger than the tubing OD. If you design the joints to be rotated so that the side impact load is not transmitted as a shear load on the bolts, but loads the 2 halves of the mechanical joint, you will have a much stronger joint. The bolts should only be there to keep the bars and joints in place.


If you had to, you can design a similar joint that would still work with a quick release pin, but I would feel much safer with some high grade bolts holding things in place. After all 2-4 bolts per door bar cant take you more than 5 minutes to install and remove before and after a track day.


A few years ago when I was looking at adding door bars and halo to my 4 point I was looking at connections similar to these
http://www.watsonracing.com/wp-conte...troit-area.jpg


NHRA stops me from racing my Cobra - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum


They make for pretty strong joints.