If I mount my potato cannon to a turbo car, would that count? I still have the 12ft one I made back in high school.

No M45 yet, sadly. I will be retaining the stock airbox though. Turns out I will need to do a bit more work than expected, so I have unburried the mill. Pics of that later.

2.5" PVC has an OD of 2.875. A good compromise between 3" and the ID of the stock crossover tube (~2.7ish).

 

Isn't it just the cutest little thing?



Lalala~ Makin' chips~



Painted the PVC. Only have gloss in a formula for plastic, so a few coats of that, then hit it with a mat coat should look decent.



It will go something like this.

 

PVC intake? I thought this was the thread where you occasionally did stuff right.

 

Is a PVC intake not wrong?

Happened to be the right size and just runs from the airbox to the crossover tube. We will see if the exhaust melts it or not.

 

The plastic will either meld, bend, become brittle/weak from the heat exposure inside the engine bay alone. Aluminum would of been a better first choice

 

Spiffy! I am curious how long it will last. I will order up some aluminum at some point.

If this were pressurized I would have used something different (PVC will handle lots of pressure if you keep it cool, have to derate it to 20% by 145* though!).

Speaking of pressures and heats. I need to start researching intercoolers. The M45 makes a crap ton of heat from what I have heard, so I am thinking an e-bay roulette one isn't a great idea. I know the ones with the turbulators are fine, but finding one when the product descriptions are so horrid is unlikely. Also worried about too much pressure drop, though at sub 10PSI probably not flowing enough for it to be a problem. I hear good things about the vibrant one on amazon?

Would like to keep it under $100, but if there are none that will do the job well for that I can push out to $200 for the intercooler. It isn't like they go bad over time.

 

Don't worry about pressure drop at 10psi. There is nothing better than the ebay intercooler below $100. I think the seller we all bought from is still selling the intercoolers. It's stickied somewhere.

 

Hmm, I just wish there were some way to verify it is the one with the turbulators like my friend has and not the one that just had boxes strait through. I will have to see if anyone has bought one recently from them.

Any reason not to bump up from the 5.5" tall one to the 7.5" tall one?

 

Or something like that.

 

I've decided I don't like the whole "push the wires into the AFM connector" thing. So I ordered some 8 way connectors and will be cutting into the stock harness. I also orderd some 3 way one for when I do the variable TPS.

 

Went ahead and ordered this one. Looks like it is the same one you guys are all running. I will be curious to see if it can keep up with the supercharger.

Universal Full Aluminum Turbo 27x5 5x2 5" Bar Plate Front Mount Intercooler | eBay

 

Track night #2 was a success, other than almost overheating my motor. Caught the gauge going up at the end of the first session, popped the heat and fans on coming into the pits since it was still going up even after slowing down. It got up to 241f according too the logs and had been running about 235 for the last lap or two of the session when I checked the logs.

Turns out my car reaaaaaly does not like having a front license plate. Temps dropped down to 215 or so next session out, max of 219. Not great, but a lot better. Need to get around to doing the rerout.

Otherwise everything went well. If I really pushed it I could grease out the RE-71Rs in three laps, to the surprise of noone.

The PVC pipe didn't melt either. And, much to my surprise, my car uses no oil at track days. About 2800 miles on this change and the two track nights (about 2 hours total on track) and it is only down about 1/4 qt. Which is where it normally is at this point.

 

Running that hot unboosted on track in a DE1/2 setting isn't right for a stock motor, even if it is the stock rad. I'd do a once over on your system. Is your undertray on?

 

It's an aftermarket rad. Metal end tanks, duno what brand though (it came with the car). I did a cooling system refresh over the winter, new hoses, flushed everything out, new thermostat and seals.

I put the under tray on for this event since I finnaly got one.

220f is definetly hotter than I would like. Could it be because I have an AC system installed.(though off). May just have bugs and tar clogging up the condencer, I might try cleaning it out and stratening the fins.

 

It's worth inspecting the AC condenser. Sounds like it could be the culprit.

 

Sounds like a plan. What kind of sustained temps should I be lookig for on a stock motor with a mostly stock cooling system?

 

200-210F at most from what I've seen.

 

That's closer to what I was expecting. I will try cleaning the condencer out. I may just slap an ebay aluminum in there and push my rerout further up the to do list. That should fix it.

 

I'm not saying you shouldn't do a reroute, especially with boost in your future, but you should find the real cause of the issue before doing something out of the ordinary to fix it.

 

Looking at the logs again, it looks like the second session was mostly between 200 and 215. With one peak up to 219 at the end of the long straight after I slowed down. Third session stayed sub 212. I know my AC condencer is banged up, so I would place money on it being that. Next track day likely won't be until august or september though so I won't know until then.