Bond's Yata v2.0
07-07-2011, 12:15 AM
#41
Reply
0
0
07-07-2011, 01:08 AM
#42
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southlake,Texas
Posts: 3,219
Total Cats: 15
lol! He is on the *******! roflcopter
Got the car to idle, going to sync the timing and try to set up a good map so I can drive the car this weekend.
Got the car to idle, going to sync the timing and try to set up a good map so I can drive the car this weekend.
Last edited by Bond; 07-07-2011 at 10:20 AM.
Reply
0
0
07-18-2011, 08:54 PM
#43
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southlake,Texas
Posts: 3,219
Total Cats: 15
Car runs ok. I know it could use more tuning but it is getting the job done for now. Trey helped me get a decent road tune on the car, but he hates my WBo2. It sees a lot of noise in the signal, very jumpy. I have it grounded off the DB37 connector or whatever the hell it is that plugs in to the front of the MS.
Attached is my .msq and a datalog, any input is appreciated. This is N/A with stock injectors. 1.6l.
Attached is my .msq and a datalog, any input is appreciated. This is N/A with stock injectors. 1.6l.
Reply
0
0
08-01-2011, 02:34 PM
#45
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southlake,Texas
Posts: 3,219
Total Cats: 15
Problems have arisen. I drove the car for about 3 weeks with out any problems. Then on my way out East, it started acting weird. I would hit bumps in the road and it would miss, tach was also cutting out. I parked it and came back from work and it didn't start. It would turn over, but there was no power to the WB02. Towed it 50 miles back home.
So I was convinced my WB02 was at fault, picked up treys extra lc1 wired it in to the DB37 connector on the front of my MS, and it got power. Calibrated it as directed, so I guess it worked? not really sure, LED never blinked so I just did it by manually connecting the wires with my hand.
Same problem as before though. It will crank, it has spark, TS shows fuel pulses while cranking. I found the 20A fuse for the fan in the main fuse box was blown and keeps blowing, so I'm guessing there is a short somewhere in that system. I'm pretty lost at this point, when I bought this car it had some pretty weird electrical glitches it seemed, and the ignition switch is kinda finicky.
Anyone have an idea on what is at fault here?
PS my dad was messing about with the car when I was gone and put ST_SIG fuse back in. It didn't do any damage I don't think as MS still connects and the car still cranks, just doesn't catch.
halp
So I was convinced my WB02 was at fault, picked up treys extra lc1 wired it in to the DB37 connector on the front of my MS, and it got power. Calibrated it as directed, so I guess it worked? not really sure, LED never blinked so I just did it by manually connecting the wires with my hand.
Same problem as before though. It will crank, it has spark, TS shows fuel pulses while cranking. I found the 20A fuse for the fan in the main fuse box was blown and keeps blowing, so I'm guessing there is a short somewhere in that system. I'm pretty lost at this point, when I bought this car it had some pretty weird electrical glitches it seemed, and the ignition switch is kinda finicky.
Anyone have an idea on what is at fault here?
PS my dad was messing about with the car when I was gone and put ST_SIG fuse back in. It didn't do any damage I don't think as MS still connects and the car still cranks, just doesn't catch.
halp
Reply
0
0
08-01-2011, 03:16 PM
#47
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southlake,Texas
Posts: 3,219
Total Cats: 15
Yes the LC1 is working, or atleast it has power, haven't got the car to start so I don't know if it is reading correctly or not.
I checked out my fuel pump and the connector has power, but I don't hear the pump turn on when I turn the key. Searching now on how to bench test the pump.
I checked out my fuel pump and the connector has power, but I don't hear the pump turn on when I turn the key. Searching now on how to bench test the pump.
Reply
0
0
08-01-2011, 03:24 PM
#48
Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Athens, Greece
Posts: 5,978
Total Cats: 356
Well since your dad put that fuse back in, you destroyed the Megasquirt's fuel pump relay driver. Jump FP to ground in the diagnostic connector and it will fire right up.
Reply
0
0
08-01-2011, 03:42 PM
#52
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Yes the LC1 is working, or atleast it has power, haven't got the car to start so I don't know if it is reading correctly or not.
I checked out my fuel pump and the connector has power, but I don't hear the pump turn on when I turn the key. Searching now on how to bench test the pump.
I checked out my fuel pump and the connector has power, but I don't hear the pump turn on when I turn the key. Searching now on how to bench test the pump.
There's another local guy who runs MS who called AAA or something because his timing belt broke. The tow truck driver tried to do him a favor by putting the "ST SGN" fuse in and it never worked again.
Reply
0
0
08-01-2011, 03:56 PM
#54
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,499
Total Cats: 4,080
Open your DIYPNP by removing the 4 screws on the db15 side. Slide out the main board.
Remove the two wires going to the High Side Driver Circuit (from FP to IN and from OUT to 1C)
Solder a wire from FP to 2O.
On your AFM connector jump pins 2 and 7.
done, never worry about the ST-SIGN fuse ever again.
Alternatively:
Buy a TIP125 (not at radio shack sorry)
Open your DIYPNP by removing the 4 screws on the db15 side. Slide out the main board.
Remove the TIP125 from the High Side Driver Circuit
Replace.
done.
Remove the two wires going to the High Side Driver Circuit (from FP to IN and from OUT to 1C)
Solder a wire from FP to 2O.
On your AFM connector jump pins 2 and 7.
done, never worry about the ST-SIGN fuse ever again.
Alternatively:
Buy a TIP125 (not at radio shack sorry)
Open your DIYPNP by removing the 4 screws on the db15 side. Slide out the main board.
Remove the TIP125 from the High Side Driver Circuit
Replace.
done.
Reply
0
0
08-01-2011, 05:03 PM
#60
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southlake,Texas
Posts: 3,219
Total Cats: 15
The fan fuse, 20A yellow, right above where the stsig fuse originally goes.
So I want FP to 4O? oui oui. and for that matter the bigger one or smaller one, even though it looks like both 4O has no leads running to it.
So I want FP to 4O? oui oui. and for that matter the bigger one or smaller one, even though it looks like both 4O has no leads running to it.
Reply
0
0
