<p>Aren't the LS coils similar to the Toyota COPS. 1 shared 12V line. And individual trigger wires to each COP. So you should have 4 inputs on your ecu harness for ignition.</p>

 

So I actually did stuff on the car today surprisingly. It was a nice day out so I figured I wouldn't totally waste the opportunity.


Got some paint stripper for the 99 valve cover


Still did some more cleaning after this point but didn't take a pic


awww yisss




Also ground off the double timing marks on the 99 cam gear and finally installed that/reset timing. Hopefully everything is good.





Getting bungs welded on to the intercooler piping tomorrow for my IAT sensor and meth injection nozzle and picking up my install kit for the Walbro pump.

After I get all that stuff on I think all the mechanical stuff will be done. All that'll be left are the brake/clutch lines and wire harness.

 

Had a couple bungs welded on my coldside intercooler pipe for the IAT sensor and meth injection nozzle and put that back in



Meth line running to the intercooler pipe


Then I had some friends come by to help me finish up the brake lines. I considered routing them through the car but didn't want to deal with pulling the dash in case something went wrong with one of them. The come back out on the other side of the engine bay and just run down the firewall.






Then I finally did some more work on mounting the fuel pump. Looking for opinions on this setup. I wanted to run 3/8 line from the pump to the rail so that meant finding a way to get 3/8 line coming off the pump.

It goes from the pump into the rubber line that comes with the install kit, into a 3/8 line that goes into the bulkhead fitting with a brass crush fitting that is supposed to seal it. Then from there it'll go into the -6 AN line to the front of the car.



Not a great shot but gives the idea of the bulkhead


Now all that is left is dropping the pump into the tank and the wire harness which I'm too uncomfortable with to actually trust myself to do lol

 

Thanks for posting up that lower rad hose #. Found it on rockauto for $7 and there's enough of it to do both my upper and lower hoses. Used your "brake line behind cowl plate" routing for my booster hard line since I lost my space in the bay from the new engine position.

 

Glad it helped you out!

I kind of like that routing for the booster. I should've done that lol. Oh well, way too lazy to change it now.

---
So I'm trying to figure out what I want to run for wheels and tires. The car is mostly going to be street driven, being totally realistic it won't make it out to a lapping day for a while. It will however make it to the drag strip since that's at least close by, but I'll have separate tires for that.

I'm trying to decide if I want to do some 15x9's with a 225/45 RS3 v2 or if I should just buy these:
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...is-245s-83891/

I'm just concerned the Maxxis will just go to waste on the street.

If I got the RS3's I was going to buy 2 more wheels to put some drag radials on for those late nights in Mexico

Thoughts?

 

I don't mind driving on my RC1's on the street mostly due to how infrequently I drive the car(when running). More of a weekend car for me so it doesn't matter much to me. Saying that, when funds allow, I'll pick up some RS3s to mount on my 15x8s to save my 9s for autocross/track driving.

 

I really need to stop reading these threads. You guys are making me want to start a build I don't have time/space for...

 

I have a couple 6ul 15x9s with Rc-1s for sale!

 

Boosted lookbup Dan Howard on Facebook(forgot his screen name here), I just remembered he has 15x10 245 RC1s for sale. Do it, so you have at least a desperate chance at traction!

 

I saw those, I'm just too cheap/lazy to buy 2 more lol. Although I do really like 6ul's.

Are they the set I posted the link to a few posts up? If so I was going to send him an offer the other night but don't want to bother him until i'm absolutely sure I want them.

The car is only driven on nicer days since it'd be a bad idea to drive it in the rain lol. But I still plan to drive it a lot once its running. I'm just concerned about burning through tires that actually cost some money too quickly. Cheap $50/tire tires I'll do burnouts on all day, but some 245 maxxis I would want to last me a bit.

How are the RC1's for straight line grip?

Maybe I'll man up and make an offer on those and just see how long they last me.

 

I've been extremely happy with mine driving on public roads. Way less tire spin events when driving like an *******.

 

That's good to hear, especially since I'd have slightly wider tires, although slightly more power too lol

Sent him a message. Looks like it could possibly be just the tires. He's in Ohio though so I could probably pick them up one weekend when I'm down there to save money. It would be awesome if it was wheels too.

 

The JPreston ad (15x10 Jong's w/ 245's) you linked earlier still seems to be available. I don't think you'll be disappointed. I've convinced several local guys to run them for autox and they are quite potent.

 

I'm really leaning towards those just want some more opinions from people running them on the street

 

Hmmmm

 

needs moar poke

 

Holy **** Paul...I don't think any stretching/pulling in the world is gonna help with that.

Going with fender flares or widebody rear&front fenders?

 

I'll give you more poke


Bro I'm just gonna buy some camber, should fit no problem then! Lol


I may have something in the works haha. Just a test fit for now, mostly just looking at buying these wheels now because they're my dream wheels for sale locally. Deciding if I want to spend the time doing flares this year or not though

 

Just get some air shocks and jack up the *** end like a Chevy Nova.

 

Great build!
Do you have any news about the driveshaft?