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Old 08-24-2010, 06:59 AM   #41
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I like it... especially the RHD thing.. no more burned leg on the hot transmission tunnel. At least not until the whole thing is heat soaked.
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Old 08-24-2010, 08:35 AM   #42
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That's an awful lot of paint if you're trying to go for the absolute lightest car possible, what are you planning on doing with the interior?
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:50 AM   #43
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I like how you removed the unnecessary metal between the trunk and the inside of the car. Looks great
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Old 08-24-2010, 01:03 PM   #44
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I still cant get over how much I like your cage. I'm curious about the legs on the main hoop though. Did that all get boxed in behind the doors or is that actually 2 seperate bars between the main hoop and the door bars?
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Old 08-24-2010, 05:45 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KPLAFIN View Post
That's an awful lot of paint if you're trying to go for the absolute lightest car possible, what are you planning on doing with the interior?
The paint is just thick enough to cover properly. The interior will just have a seat and from behind the seats to the back of the car will be flat sheet of carbon fibre. I will make a new dash from carbon fibre too.
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Old 08-24-2010, 05:53 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayne_curr View Post
I still cant get over how much I like your cage. I'm curious about the legs on the main hoop though. Did that all get boxed in behind the doors or is that actually 2 seperate bars between the main hoop and the door bars?
The main hoop runs all the way to the bottom. Our governing body for racing states there can be no bend, but we needed to bend it. So we boxed it back in with plate steel so that area is regarded as the bottom edge and the little bit of bar at the very bottom is there for "support". Anyway it should be very strong.
A lot of metal has been cut out from the seat belt towers and parcel shelf area. It is good too, as the cage can be built as close to the outer edge as possible.
After i get all the bolt on panels made in carbon fibre i will be cutting of the rear 1/4 panels and replacing them in c.f as well. So only the chassis will be steel.

Another pic.
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Old 09-05-2010, 05:50 PM   #47
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Any updates?
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Old 09-05-2010, 08:30 PM   #48
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My wife has me installing a couple of roof windows in our house, plus a few other things, like making a couple of c.f hardtops...... I did manage to get the wiring loom in and the pedals modified and installed. I should have it back together and running in the next couple of weeks. Probably 3 days work, but i don't have much spare time right now. It is also still cold here and the days are short, it just turned spring, so the weather should be getting better. As soon as it is running and able to hit the track i will start moulding the doors, and make a pair in c.f. I did learn a bit from making the first pair of doors for the NA. So it should be quicker and easier this time and should be even better. One thing i will do is leave them more together. Like leave the window rubber and glass in place when i mould the outer skin. Just take off the door handle. And i will put a flat sheet of alloy over the door on the inside, so it is flat. Last time it took me hours to get the layers in on the inside mould because of all the contoured shapes.

The cut out in the cieling is 8'7" square.

Last edited by lightyear; 09-05-2010 at 08:50 PM. Reason: add pic
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Old 10-22-2010, 08:11 PM   #49
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You asked for input so here are some of my random crazy thoughts that may not be legal. You may already be planning some of this but here goes.

1. Fill that trunk hole with the radiator and add some huge sucker fans to pull the air from under the car. Vent it out the trunk lid.

2. Then use the front opening only for the intercooler and vent it through the hood. Flaten the whole bottom of the car.

3. Inboard mounted brakes in the rear also cooled by the sucker fans. This will lighten the wheel weight.

4. If you are building the rear fenders from CF then trunicate the corner. Think corvette or the Winston cup MonteCarlo.

5. If you are building the doors then dont coke bottle the body leave it as wide as the fenders. Think IMSA wide body.

6. Get the 2" hole saw out and start drilling lightening holes and make sure you radius the edges for strenth.

7. Those steel braded lines are too heavy. Order up the nylon braded lines.

8. That factory manifold is heavy too. Sheemetal aluminum will save a few pounds.

9. Tubular K member and tubular rear suspension mounts will be stronger and lighter. They will also allow more adjustment. For that matter tubular control arms will lighten thing up a bit also.

10. That cast exhaust manifold can be replaced with a tubular stainless also.

11. Is that front bar solid? That would have to go.

13. Exhaust straight through the hood, cant get much lighter than that.

Greg
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Old 10-25-2010, 02:20 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOHCPanther View Post
You asked for input so here are some of my random crazy thoughts that may not be legal. You may already be planning some of this but here goes.

1. Fill that trunk hole with the radiator and add some huge sucker fans to pull the air from under the car. Vent it out the trunk lid. That could work

2. Then use the front opening only for the intercooler and vent it through the hood. Flaten the whole bottom of the car. I was going to do the flat bottom and ducted intercooler

3. Inboard mounted brakes in the rear also cooled by the sucker fans. This will lighten the wheel weight.I am not sure i have the skills for that, but it would be great

4. If you are building the rear fenders from CF then trunicate the corner. Think corvette or the Winston cup MonteCarlo.good idea, i was looking at doing super gt style body.

5. If you are building the doors then dont coke bottle the body leave it as wide as the fenders. Think IMSA wide body.If i did that i would have to put some big scollops in to duct air out from behind the front wheels

6. Get the 2" hole saw out and start drilling lightening holes and make sure you radius the edges for strenth. Thereis not a lot of places to drill out.

7. Those steel braded lines are too heavy. Order up the nylon braded lines.

8. That factory manifold is heavy too. Sheemetal aluminum will save a few pounds.

9. Tubular K member and tubular rear suspension mounts will be stronger and lighter. They will also allow more adjustment. For that matter tubular control arms will lighten thing up a bit also.I would like to get the front k member and tubular arms.

10. That cast exhaust manifold can be replaced with a tubular stainless also.[FONT="Arial Black"]That motor is the old motor, i was going to get this car going and then build it up over time, but i have another na to use for track days now./FONT]

11. Is that front bar solid? That would have to go. I will make a new front bar to match the guards

13. Exhaust straight through the hood, cant get much lighter than that.
That's true
Greg
I am getting the house reno's done slowly, i should be getting a fresh start on this in the new year by the latest.
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Old 02-07-2011, 05:31 PM   #51
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I have not been on here for a while, but i do have some progress. the car was coming together with all the running gear, motor - box - diff - 2004 sport brakes - wiring all from the old car. Then a guy offered me some money for the 1.6 motor, microtech computer and all the *** turbo gear. So now the car is stripped down again and only the diff is in and the rear brakes. Now i have a whole new package going in.
The new 1.8 motor is getting built with a bp26 gtr crank, acl bearings, eagle rods, 83.5mm arias pistons, fully balanced with 184mm twin plate clutch and matching flywheel, main oil galleries machined for hi flow, main gallery rifle drilled chamfered, etc.
Bp4w head cnc cut seats, valves, cc'd, tuckin '99 adj cam gears, inlet manifold modified to run 2 sets of injectors. Motec m800, car will be run on e85 fuel only. Will be tuned for about 260 - 270 rwhp as that's all he feels the driveline will take safely. It will have some power/torque pulled out of 1st gear and more taken out of 3rd and 4th as they are the weakest gears in the factory turbo 6 speed i have. It will have variable traction control too, as well as accelorometer and gps tracking.
While that is getting done i am putting in a spare motor to dummy up the exhaust and intercooler fabrication. And i will be moulding all the panels and making my own changes in the next couple of weeks. The motor will be ready by mid april, so the car should be going by the end of april i hope. I am also getting corvette rotors and calipers for it.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:27 PM   #52
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only 260-270? A good factory block is capable of that, a built motor can safely handle more than that and I always thought that the 6-speeds were stronger than that. What you described sounds like something a 5 speed would do.
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:49 PM   #53
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The motor is built to take 45lbs of boost. But he is tuning it to the max of the turbo 6 speed capacity ( he has found the limit on the track by popping gearboxes over a weekend). I know i can get 250 or so on a stock motor, a friend of mine has about that with bolt ons. But on a track his car wouldn't last at continuous boost for more than a few minutes at a time. I can have this combo tuned to a heap more power, but only after i get a stronger gearbox. The turbo is a custom garret job capable of a lot more power. I am sure it will be fast enough till i save up money for the box and then get it retuned. The guy tuning it has 300whp in his car with a restrictor, and stupid amounts of torque.
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Old 02-08-2011, 12:19 AM   #54
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****, I forgot to factor in the track stuff! how many 6-speeds has he effed up?
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:44 AM   #55
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So which gearbox are you all looking at? The Quaife gearset? Jerico? Some other stock trans?
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Old 02-08-2011, 04:31 PM   #56
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I can get 3rd and 4th done in the turbo 6 speed, that should allow for a power increase. Or get a whole quaife gearset, i think they only do it for the 5 speed. The car will be pretty light so hopefully that will help with keeping it from breaking. He went thru 2 6 speed in 2 weekends, then bought a brand new 6 speed from japan and broke that in a weekend as well.
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Old 02-09-2011, 02:02 PM   #57
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Look at those new Borg Warner turbos...

10/22/2010 - EFR Overview

What started as a dream-team of engineering partners designing a turbocharger lineup from scratch - refusing to be limited by availability of what already exists - resulted with EFR turbochargers. Engineering decisions were made that embody the state-of-the-art in high performance turbocharging. Top shelf aerodynamics were developed. Features like ceramic ball bearings, FMW compressor wheels, and Gamma-Ti turbine wheels were combined with Twinscroll stainless steel housings as our intention to maximize the performance of these turbos in every possible way. Read on for more detail...

EFR Hot Side (Turbine)
The most exciting technology in the EFR package is the low inertia Gamma-Ti Turbine Wheel. All EFR turbine wheels are made from a high performance lightweight material known as "Gamma-Ti". This material innovation is not quite metal and not quite ceramic, it is considered an "inter-metallic compound". Comprised primarily of titanium and aluminum (titanium-aluminide) with other trace elements, the Gamma-Ti turbine wheel is so light it's nearly the same weight as the forged-machined aluminum compressor wheel. This approximate 1:1 turbine:compressor weight ratio dramatically improves turbo response. Further strength benefits are realized at high temperatures as Gamma-Ti gains ductility and exhibits very high stiffness-to-weight ratios with good vibration damping characteristics. The EFR debut marks the first time Gamma-Ti has been offered to the public across a range of turbine wheel sizes and at an enthusiast's price point.
EFR Gamma-Ti Turbine wheels come in six sizes: 55mm, 58mm, 64mm, 70mm, 74mm, and 80mm OD (turbine inducer diameter) and utilize the latest generation Fullback/Superback turbine wheel blade aero designs specifically tailored for high turbine efficiency and high flow at elevated boost levels. The fullback wheel hubs employ a full aerodynamic back-disk, meaning that the hubline extends all the way to the inlet tip. This feature allows for incredibly smooth (low energy loss) guidance of exhaust flow out of the housing and into the blade channels. Going one step further, the Superback shape adds a curved profile to the backdisk and effectively lowers centrifugal stresses - improving stability at elevated rotational speeds. Impossible in the past due to material stress limitations, the combination of Gamma-Ti and the exciting new .fullback/superback. design works in concert to allow best possible efficiency, high speed capability and durability.

There are (4) investment cast stainless steel turbine housings that make up the initial release of the EFR series (with more to come). Sizes are available in .64 A/R T25, 0.83 A/R T3 and 0.92 A/R internal WG or 1.05 A/R external WG T4 twinscroll footprints, all use a 3" Vband outlet. Stainless steel is a superior material choice for manifolds and turbine housings in turbocharged engines which operate at extreme EGTs. From a performance standpoint, the combination of material properties and thinly cast wall thickness allow less heat energy to escape AND are lighter weight while also being more crack resistant. The investment casting process results in a perfectly smooth surface finish that resembles a ported/polished cyl head and serves to lower gas friction losses - all while looking beautiful in the engine bay (a perfect compliment to the Full-Race header it's attached to). Stainless Turbine housings offer exceptional corrosion resistance at elevated temperatures - far superior to rusty/corroded cast iron housings we are used to seeing in the past. These turbine housings are truly fit for street use, road racing, or even endurance racing and when polished they look like modern-artwork.
NOTE: These are NOT designed to be direct bolt-in replacement turbine housings for other mfg turbos so do NOT expect them to bolt up to your car/manifold without changes unless stated.

The optional EFR internal wastegate is truly designed for high flow, even for big-power setups. EFR optional internal wastegates are aerodynamically-optimized to offer the same performance as an external wastegate recirculated back into the downpipe - no 90 degree corners here. This is a real "value" feature of the EFR program, particularly in the case of twinscroll applications which require (2) external wastegates, (2) manifold wastegate ports (2) dumptubes for maximum performance. Furthermore, the manifold fabrication and installation are both simplified with the wastegated EFR models. Boost levels can be easily adjusted by swapping adjustable wastegate canisters available in three different spring rates/boost levels. Lastly, different turbo clocking positions are easy to accomodate without changing the wastegate bracket. This is because the bracket is bolted to the bearing housing backing plate - not to the compressor housing as is the case with most internal WG turbos. For space constrained applications which can not fit the EFR internal WG or Hardcore racers that want to keep their dual external wastegates mounted to the exhaust manifold - you can do that too!

EFR Internal WG Fitment is application specific: most longitudinal engines such as 2JZ, SR20, RB26, will fit the Internal WG, whereas many transverse engines such as some FWD Hondas and some AWD applications will not fit the EFR internal WG. Applications prone to boost creep may prefer large external wastegates for boost levels under 7psi. exceptions to the rules confuse this. Keep an eye out for a Full-Race fitment compatibility chart coming soon!
Cold Side (Compressor)
All EFR turbochargers use Extended Tip Forged Milled Compressor Wheels ***AKA Billet Compressor Wheels*** The six EFR compressor wheels range from 62mm OD (~50mm inducer) to 91mm OD (~67mm inducer). These Extended Tip Technology designs are unique in that they are BorgWarner's highest-boost capable wheel designs yet still produce outstanding map width and flow capacity for efficiency at all boost levels and engine types. EFR compressor wheels are manufactured from forged aluminum for maximum strength and light weight, then CNC machined on a 6-axis CNC Mill. The blade geometry utilizes State-of-the-Art aerodynamics that delivers efficiency, boost capability and surge limits beyond any turbo we have ever seen. The forging strength exceeds that of typical aluminum billet bar-stock and also exceeds the material properties of an aluminum lost-wax compressor wheel casting. These compressors define "top shelf" in terms of strength, efficiency, range/width, and of course pressure ratio (boost) capability.

EFR turbo compressor housings incorporate an integrated BOV. Yes, you read that right - the BOV is a recirculating style *built-in* to the Compressor Housing. The major performance advantage in this design is that it redirects the high-pressure compressed air from the outlet of the compressor wheel -> right at the low-pressure inlet of the turbo. This helps to keep the turbo spooled between shifts and offers cost savings/convenience while keeping MAF-based engine mgt happy. With this in place, there is no need for a BOV or flange on the charge piping. The only downside of this feature is the fact that it makes the compressor housing about 1" (~25mm) longer in axial length. For the hardcore racers who want to use an external traditional BOV, and for applications that can not fit or do not want to use the internal valve, we offer a disabling cover plate. This cover plate installs in place of the plastic cover and uses the original diaphragm to seal the port.
There are three compressor housing sizes and types - All housings come with the same features BOV, BSCV, V-band connection, hose clamp surfaces, etc. The first is a small compressor housing for the T25 turbos. The medium is used with the mid-sized 70mm and 76mm OD compressor wheels available. The large compressor housing is used with the 83mm and 91mm wheels. Lastly, exclusive to the large cover is a dual-machined outlet, useful for both a hose connection and/or a v-band connection. If the v-band feature is needed, the hose connection portion can be cut off and discarded. Full-Race will offer vband 90 degree bends for applications which require a tight bend, close to the turbo (such as RB26 and many subaru rotated setups). The medium and large housings both use an inlet recirculation groove (AKA ported shroud) for maximum compressor map width and anti-surge characteristics.

A Boost Control Solenoid Valve (BCSV) is included with every EFR turbo ** For electonically controlled boost levels, an Electronic Boost Control Solenoid (EBCS) is integrated right into the compressor housing. This solenoid is truly OEM quality and uses an industry standard fuel injector plug, making it easy to connecting to multiple boost control systems. Of course if the hardcore racers want to use an external solenoid OR a manual boost controller (without the integrated EBCS), that is very easy to do.
Speed sensor mounting provisions are also supplied on every compressor cover (speed sensors are sold separately). Turbo speed sensors are not new technology, but the installation procedure has always been difficult for even the most experienced tuners/installers. Traditionally the customer must remove their compressor cover and take it to a machinist. This machinist then has to set up the cover at a compound angle to precisely drill the speed sensor bore while carefully hitting the contour area of the wheel bore at the right angle. The BorgWarner EFR solution provides this precision machining already done to every compressor cover. The hole stops short of protruding into the compressor wheel bore. If a user decides to buy a speed sensor as an upgrade accessory, they simply remove the compressor cover and extend the hole the rest of the way through to the wheel bore using a hand drill. A " drill bit is used and the length required to be drilled is quite short. This hole allows the tip of the sensor to come flush with the contour surface. The hole does not have to be precise, as no sealing takes place in the small hole that the user just created.

Center Section
All EFR turbochargers use high-end Ceramic Ball Bearings for Enhanced Turbo Response ** Even though BorgWarner has been known as a long-time manufacturer of high end journal bearing turbos, the engineering team developed ceramic ball bearing cartridges for the uncompromising EFR series. EFR bearing cartridges house dual-row ceramic ***** in special alloy bearing races to provide substantial friction reduction. The biggest benefits of ball bearings are most clearly realized at low turbo shaft speeds (spool-up region) and they also help improve turbocharger response/boost recovery as found between gear shifts. Once the engine is at full boost, ball bearings offer no advantage in performance - BUT - there are huge performance benefits for getting up to the desired boost level FAST and delivering quick throttle response for on-off-on-off aggressive driving. From a durability standpoint, the EFR cartridge bearing system provides a huge increase in thrust load capacity over conventional systems and requires much less oil supply. From a fuel efficiency standpoint, parasitic loss is reduced at low turbo speed so MPG increases can be realized. Lastly, the EFR bearing system includes the latest in turbo seal technology reducing oil seepage/burning problems often found in aftermarket installations (more on this later!!)
EFR bearing housings have the option for water-cooling. Water cooling is recommended where possible to do so, but not mandatory. If watercooling is not connected, be sure to use clean, high viscosity synthetic oil (15W) and do not repeatedly perform "hot engine shutdowns".
A properly sized "restrictor" aka oil metering orifice is integrated into the bearing housing so EXTERNAL OIL RESTRICTORS SHOULD NOT BE ADDED TO EFR TURBOS. A -4AN male fitting has been provided on the EFR turbo and a -4AN (") line is recommended. Oil return is tapped to 3/8NPT as well as 2 bolt flange comaptible.

EFR Summary
The BorgWarner EFR turbo is set to become the new world standard for performance turbocharging due to the high-technology feature package, unbeatable performance, and installation convenience. The EFR turbocharger was designed and manufactured with only one purpose in mind: to dominate the street, track, and strip. (7) different sized turbos, optimally matched for the 250-1000hp per turbo segment - and in (4) different turbine housings are the result. The combination of this top-shelf geometry and the Gamma-Ti turbine wheel significantly raises the bar for performance aftermarket turbochargers. Combined with our ball bearing technology, it is the most responsive range or turbos that are available anywhere, at any price. The EFR series covers all applications except the hardcore drag racers. For those hardcore customers, we still offer the highly popular S400SX and S500SX product lines, and will continue to update those turbos during the next year.

Last edited by jacob300zx; 02-09-2011 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 02-10-2011, 03:16 AM   #58
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Excellent thread.
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Old 02-13-2011, 04:28 AM   #59
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Started on the bodywork. Should be able to make all the moulds in the next 2 weeks.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:42 AM   #60
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Holy crap!
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