When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The confusing part: I'm saying that whether you choose to use MAT or CLT to set initial values, your values are presently all the same regardless of CLT. Thus, the rows mean nothing. You are not getting the benefit of a 3D control.
The confusing part: I'm saying that whether you choose to use MAT or CLT to set initial values, your values are presently all the same regardless of CLT. Thus, the rows mean nothing. You are not getting the benefit of a 3D control.
Ahh, that makes sense. The reason why it's all the same is because prior to the other day I thought that the "y" axis on that table was load not temperature. I am guessing originally the map pre loaded in the numbers in celcius which is why I thought they were load not temperature.
And, I never noticed any difference in required VE based on very very small changes in load.
Ok, made a bunch of adjustments based on advice. I bedded my brakes tonight and on my "cool down" I did a log. Some pulls were done when I got behind an STI with an exhaust. He didn't pull on me.
WHEN my EGO is running it seems to be doing a good job. For some reason though it doesn't seem to run when running "idle VE". I did almost stall out a couple times. I need to do some logs early on in my driving so as to catch those issues in a log for you all to see.
I will post more logs tomorrow, but for now here is my current tune and log from tonight.
#185 is just sitting in traffic I believe? You can see my idle varying quite a bit to the point of almost stalling.
#186 is a few miles down the road pulling into my subdivision and parking. I notice that the power steering pump will almost stall the car. That makes for a dangerous situation.
So, unrelated to the last post I decided to look at my tune a bit since it was a little too cold to drive on my tires today. I remembered noting that the Flyin' Miata Hydra ignition base map looked a lot more aggressive than I remembered my map to be.
Here is what I started with: And looking at that map and comparing it to even the DIYautotune BASE map I saw that I was pretty far retarded all over. Now, I don't want to throw my tune into chaos by just copy/pasting especially considering that this tune has been safe for my rods thus far, but at the same time I seem to getting quite hot and my fuel economy isn't very good. I am figuring that perhaps the retarded timing is causing my engine to run hotter than it otherwise would, so I copied the DIYautotune base map to all cells below 100kpa and kept my boost ignition timing.
When I do the engine build I will go to the dyno and get a proper cell by cell MBT calibration, but this should be an improvement.
Here is my result:
I do notice that my 20, 25/40 load cells are the same all the way across the RPM band, so I will probably re-scale my map at some point when I decide where I want some extra resolution.
I went out for a drive today with the new ignition map. It APPEARS that I am using quite a bit less fuel. My Tunerstudio fuel economy gauge spent a bunch of time in the high 20's to mid 30's. I need to figure out how to set it up to average out the economy over a certain distance.
Also, I set my boost control to "basic" closed loop and set sensitivity to about 480 before it seemed to do anything. That seems awfully high.
Aside from it being terribly sensitive to power steering and even power window electrical loads (stalling) it's running pretty damn good.
Bias duty for idle valve? Not well enough. I think the biggest issue with tuning for me is that I take such long drives. By the time I get home or somewhere I can fiddle with stuff I am so tired of being in the car that I just pull the logs and walk away. When I come back to it later I have forgotten enough about what I was actually looking for.
I was a bit high on duty (2-4%) in the 170kpa area and by setting the slider and delta I was able to let the MS give me some better bias duty values. I know I am kinda cheating but it's working. 180-185kpa bias duty seems to be spot on. Unfortunately though 185kpa is a little higher than I would like, so until I got the closed loop stuff working I was progressively lowering my duty to try and hit 170kpa.
you have a clicking noice when this happens? I had something similar with a clicking noise and it ened up being the main relay (green one in the engine bay , passenger side)
changed it and the problem came back a few weeks later, turned out to be the connector was a bit open and would loose contact after a while, snug it up a little with needle nose pliers and it has been fine for over a year
02-20-2017, 03:17 PM
0
