I still see issues, like it seems you have bad connections or interference in the wiring or something:
1) your TPS reading is erratic every now and then. on the hot start log you can see it just start spiking all over the place.
2) your IACV looks like it's doing the same thing: first it's stuck at 32 steps in the hot start log, then starts spiking all over the place too, then stuck at 32 again. That's not right at all, seems like there's some electric gremlins there.

Another issue is with boost control: it doesnt' look right at all. where are you getting your signal and how is it set up? we're targeting 15% boost duty across the board, yet it spikes to 8, then dips down, then creeps like crazy to 18 after 5 before it hits boost cut. I think it's getting stuck, then opening, and then getting stuck and not opening properly up top. I think you may need to re-clock the turbo correctly. No way on earth is that turbo supposed to be doing that on the regular wg canister and with these boost duty cycles. We had a very similar issue on G's car except it wasn't creeping like yours.

 

Wow, look at that. A genuine Vlad etune also comes with unparalleled diagnostic support.

 

Don't give him too big a head, then he'll start charging more. I'm a few weeks away from commissioning him to look at my tune.

 

lol

Diagnosing issues is probably 80% of the actual workload of doing a tune. The other 20%, making power, is actually the easy/fun part. I wish all the tunes I had to do were all easy/fun, but that's not how it works. On the flip side, after a car with multiple issues is finally figured out and dialed in, it's that much more rewarding

 

1) - I rechecked all my wiring - the TPS looks fine, my IACV connector is smushed up against my inter cooler piping, so that could have something to do with these readings. I re-adjusted the TPS, made sure everything was tight and re-calibrated before i started the car, everything seemed completely perfect.

2) TIll i got to the hot start, then it just immediately creeped up, i tried calibrating again and hot starting and it still went up - the calibration readings are withing 1-3 points from each other - so low will be like 115 and high like 743
only thing i can think of is to get a new pigtail for the connector on the IACV, I'm thinking the wires are slipping here.


3) Wastegate re-adjusted, no creep, but now rattling again, so I'll probably need some more preload - but not as much as i had - i really went overboard before here trying to get rid of that god damn flapper noise.



Boost should be much better now, i didn't see any creeping, just a **** ton of rattling. Getting my signal from the Boost Control Solenoid Valve on the EFR - It then goes to the EBC / Wastegate




Quoting for the truth

No way the car would get dialed in to this level at any local shop.

Cant wait for 20 pounds, i need the feels

 

revision 8 sent. let's try BOOZT!

but yeah, I dunno whats up with the tps, seems to work relatively well during driving/boost, and just spazzes out from time to time at idle

 

Screw TPS, i need me some more boost

 

I've been having this problem ever since I installed MS3x in place of MS1. Sometimes it goes away sometimes it's really bad. I have tried multiple TPS. I also have a '96 but that's about the end of the similarities in our setups.

 

to me it seems like an electrical/wiring issue. Interference of some sort

 

revision sent.
I'm gonna try to make a thread tonight about boost control and ms3 1.4.0 and how to set it up, but in the mean time we just made really good progress with @Lexzar's boost control on his tune, I'm sure he can give you a quick breakdown on finding the range and roughing in the bias table

1) test the boost control valve and find it's range of operation
2) with closed loop in setup mode, rough in a quick bias duty table
3) send me logs of the resulting (hopefully much more stable and less spikey) curve and msq with updated bias table

 

make sure to take a shitty phone video of boosting 20 psi all through 3rd gear

 

Make sure to turn overboost projection on

1.) Sit in garage, engine off, key on, laptop open.
2.) Open I/O test mode under CANbus enable test mode, set frequency, under PP3boost click Pulsed

• note, with my EFR ebc soleniod, 26Hz worked better than 39Hz, which makes sense since BW says, "the wave frequency should be less than or equal to 32 Hz."

3.) Now, change duty cycle % to 0, increase by 5 until you hear the boost control solenoid pulsing

• Once it starts pulsing, decrease it by 1 until it stops, then click back up 1-2%. Record this as Min Duty %

4.) Continue to do step 3, but start at 100% and decrease by 5 until it starts pulsing, then increase by 1 until it stops, then decrease 1-2% to get it to pulse again. Record this as Max Duty %.
5.) Open up boost control settings, set to Setup Mode, set Delta to something like 25kpa, plug in your Min and Max Duty % here.
6.) Now open up Boost Control Bias Duty table and set everything to your Max Duty % (As anything higher, the solenoid isn't going to do anything, so something like 100 is redundant and makes the algorithm work hard for no reason)

• This will keep the wastegate closed completely, so boost should rise as fast as possible.
• Also, you'll need to fill out the KPA target table, just put your targets at your max pressure everywhere.

7.) Go for a drive,
Make sure to turn overboost projection on
Make sure to turn overboost projection on
Make sure to turn overboost projection on

8.) Start in 3rd gear at around 2krpm, go WOT, watch your boost pressure until at some rpm it reaches your target, let off of the throttle, open up the Bias table again and every rpm after that some rpm you hit your target, reduce the Bias accordingly.

• note, I had to have my wastegate full open at 4krpm to not explode rods with my 6258, so I set everything after 4krpm equal to my Min Duty Cycle % and intrepolated between when I hit my target pressure and when I knew the wastegate would have to be fully open.

9.) This process, step 8, can continue until you are holding your target to redline, either increasing or decreasing the Bias table. Taking logs helps see any weird spikes.
10.) Then go to Simple closed-loop tuning and max out the slider. You'll probably get some overboost or oscillation. Keep decreasing until you don't get either.


I will leave PID tuning to the pros, I don't know quite how that works very well.

 

He has a built motor, no need for overboost protection. Running ALLOFIT is the only answer.

 

hahaha, for now his boost cut is set at 210 iirc, so 15ish psi

thanks for the writeup Ryan, that's gonna be really helpful

 

turn overboost to 300kpa

 

Needs to be at least 400kpa. Sonofthehill was running 290kpa on a stock block. OP should be able to do a good bit more.

 

This is how I got my signature

 

why are you all beating around the bush?
disabling it altogether is so much easier

 

cap off wastegate?

 

My *** feels great after removing overboost

my car wont turn on now tho?!?