Cordycord's epic tube frame build
#61
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The rendering looks extremely cool, however you should know that most of us are they type of people who prefer to DIY and don't tend to drop $20K on this sort of thing, but then again some do. It defiantly looks like quality.
I'd daily that. It'll be street legal as a kit car right?
I'd daily that. It'll be street legal as a kit car right?
This car won't be for everyone, but then again I don't think it will cost $20k to build a good example.
#63
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'73 Spitfire is a great looking car--one of my favorites. After having to adjust the hood a couple of times for engine clearance, I'd think you'd have that same issue with the Spitfire.
#69
You'll end up with an exocet. http://www.mevltd.co.uk/exocet_gallery.htm
#71
I think the nature of these cars based on the stock Miata subframes is a high front end. Which is probably Stein's reference to the Z4. It's hard to avoid when you're trying to produce low/sleek profile but are stuck with the OE engine position in the cradle. IMO this design does a far better job than the exocet which to me just looks incredible front heavy.
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I think the nature of these cars based on the stock Miata subframes is a high front end. Which is probably Stein's reference to the Z4. It's hard to avoid when you're trying to produce low/sleek profile but are stuck with the OE engine position in the cradle. IMO this design does a far better job than the exocet which to me just looks incredible front heavy.
#74
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The Sonic7 is based on the ko7 by Ken Okuyama, designer of the Enzo and a few other cars. It comes in at around $175,000 per car, which is one main reason why I opted for the copy.
#75
this looks awesome. I would love to swap all, most of the miata parts from a totaled miata to a tube frame and then skin it to look like a miata and have it come out 1000 lbs lighter. I wonder how much such a frame would cost? I would totally pull the trigger on something like that as a winter project.
#76
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this looks awesome. I would love to swap all, most of the miata parts from a totaled miata to a tube frame and then skin it to look like a miata and have it come out 1000 lbs lighter. I wonder how much such a frame would cost? I would totally pull the trigger on something like that as a winter project.
#77
http://www.geekologie.com/2008/10/ma...ni-countac.php
#78
I live in Chicago, live in an apartment and rent a small garage about 10 miles away. I build all kinds of things in the apartment and I have a heavy duty dolly cart to move stuff. it is not ideal, and waste time with tools left at the other location but planing goes a long way and it works fine. I would need to take it up a notch to build a car but not by much.
a miata tube frame would be the perfect solution to a crashed track car. you could buy pieces of a miata body for pretty cheap if you look around. buy a parted tub, stick a palate on it and call AAA for a tow. sawsall and done.
a miata tube frame would be the perfect solution to a crashed track car. you could buy pieces of a miata body for pretty cheap if you look around. buy a parted tub, stick a palate on it and call AAA for a tow. sawsall and done.
#79
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I live in Chicago, live in an apartment and rent a small garage about 10 miles away. I build all kinds of things in the apartment and I have a heavy duty dolly cart to move stuff. it is not ideal, and waste time with tools left at the other location but planing goes a long way and it works fine. I would need to take it up a notch to build a car but not by much.
a miata tube frame would be the perfect solution to a crashed track car. you could buy pieces of a miata body for pretty cheap if you look around. buy a parted tub, stick a palate on it and call AAA for a tow. sawsall and done.
a miata tube frame would be the perfect solution to a crashed track car. you could buy pieces of a miata body for pretty cheap if you look around. buy a parted tub, stick a palate on it and call AAA for a tow. sawsall and done.
Having said that, I stripped the first Miata body in less than 3 hours. About the same amount of time was taken labeling and removing the wiring. It's a good idea to push wires through instead of pulling. The unibody can come off in the first day.
From there everything is easy to remove, fix, clean or replace. Unless you want to make this a winter project, it should go much more quickly.
Last edited by cordycord; 03-23-2012 at 02:47 AM.
#80
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Although the MX-5 is longer and wider, it looks very similar under the skin.
When the car is free of the unibody, it's pretty easy to remove the rear sub-assembly for cleaning and upgrades. We take the bushings out and replace them with the AWR Delrin kit. The a-arms and sub-assembly goes for powder coating. There's no real need to heavily clean the metal as they all get sand blasted prior to powder coating.
The NA subs did not have rear bracing or even allowance for it, so we welded on a bracket to allow for installation. They also include Tony's upper a-arms that are adjustable for camber.
When the car is free of the unibody, it's pretty easy to remove the rear sub-assembly for cleaning and upgrades. We take the bushings out and replace them with the AWR Delrin kit. The a-arms and sub-assembly goes for powder coating. There's no real need to heavily clean the metal as they all get sand blasted prior to powder coating.
The NA subs did not have rear bracing or even allowance for it, so we welded on a bracket to allow for installation. They also include Tony's upper a-arms that are adjustable for camber.