Danger To Manifold or: How I Learned To Stop Worrying And Love The Boost.
12-01-2015, 06:41 PM
#1
Danger To Manifold or: How I Learned To Stop Worrying And Love The Boost.
First step is to buy a car. So, I found some Russians and they sold me a 96. It's currently completely stock. Won't stay that way for long.
Next step is to order a Megasquirt II and learn to tune with it. Still researching turbo sizes. Power goal is a modest 200whp.
Next step is to order a Megasquirt II and learn to tune with it. Still researching turbo sizes. Power goal is a modest 200whp.
Last edited by VRRMPSH; 12-11-2015 at 01:13 PM.
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12-24-2015, 04:33 PM
#4
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NorthWest NJ
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Make some. 3/8" rod ends off McMastercarr, 3/8-24 threaded rod, couple 3/8" bolts and some 3/8" quick pins and washers and bob's your uncle. Mine have lasted 2 full autocross seasons and about 16,000 miles so far.
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01-07-2016, 10:42 PM
#6
Boost Pope
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Props awarded for photo of cat and suspension components.
You'll do well here.
(Ditch the rear swaybar. I ran none at all, some prefer to run the stock rear and aftermarket front. Miatas are slightly tail-happy to begin with, and become downright unpredictable on the street when a turbo and a stiffer rear swaybar are installed.)
You'll do well here.
(Ditch the rear swaybar. I ran none at all, some prefer to run the stock rear and aftermarket front. Miatas are slightly tail-happy to begin with, and become downright unpredictable on the street when a turbo and a stiffer rear swaybar are installed.)
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01-08-2016, 12:20 PM
#9
Boost Pope
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Yeah, I missed it at first glance.
The plastic tank on the top starts out black when its new. As it ages (due to heat), the color begins to lighten into a sort of greyish-brown, which accompanies the material becoming brittle. When it gets to the point yours is at, it's quite likely going to crack soon.
The plastic tank on the top starts out black when its new. As it ages (due to heat), the color begins to lighten into a sort of greyish-brown, which accompanies the material becoming brittle. When it gets to the point yours is at, it's quite likely going to crack soon.
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01-08-2016, 12:40 PM
#12
Boost Pope
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None at all. OEM-style rubber hoses are extremely durable and long-lasting. I'd go ahead and replace them while you have the radiator out, but only with stock-style parts.
My preference is the Gates brand which NAPA sells. Never had a problem with one of those, and they're cheap.
My preference is the Gates brand which NAPA sells. Never had a problem with one of those, and they're cheap.
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01-08-2016, 12:44 PM
#13
None at all. OEM-style rubber hoses are extremely durable and long-lasting. I'd go ahead and replace them while you have the radiator out, but only with stock-style parts.
My preference is the Gates brand which NAPA sells. Never had a problem with one of those, and they're cheap.
My preference is the Gates brand which NAPA sells. Never had a problem with one of those, and they're cheap.
I see a couple options as far as thermo spacers in the classifieds here; any opinions on which direction to go as far as re-route kits?
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01-08-2016, 12:58 PM
#14
I've always done the Kia waterneck/GM truck hose reroutes myself. The best spacer is this one:
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...fitment-82451/
It has fully-supported bolt holes. I've used BEGI spacers in the past, and went through several waternecks as a result.
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...fitment-82451/
It has fully-supported bolt holes. I've used BEGI spacers in the past, and went through several waternecks as a result.
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01-08-2016, 01:01 PM
#15
I've always done the Kia waterneck/GM truck hose reroutes myself. The best spacer is this one:
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...fitment-82451/
It has fully-supported bolt holes. I've used BEGI spacers in the past, and went through several waternecks as a result.
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...fitment-82451/
It has fully-supported bolt holes. I've used BEGI spacers in the past, and went through several waternecks as a result.
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01-08-2016, 02:33 PM
#17
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You can just drive a freeze plug into the hole left when the thermostat housing is removed. Can't remember the exact size, but it's a common one that the auto parts stores all carry.
Or if you need a threaded hole in that area (such as for a 1.6 fan switch), you can get some flat aluminum plate from the hardware store and drill a few holes in it.
Blocking the front is the easy part.
Or if you need a threaded hole in that area (such as for a 1.6 fan switch), you can get some flat aluminum plate from the hardware store and drill a few holes in it.
Blocking the front is the easy part.
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01-08-2016, 07:16 PM
#18
You can just drive a freeze plug into the hole left when the thermostat housing is removed. Can't remember the exact size, but it's a common one that the auto parts stores all carry.
Or if you need a threaded hole in that area (such as for a 1.6 fan switch), you can get some flat aluminum plate from the hardware store and drill a few holes in it.
Blocking the front is the easy part.
Or if you need a threaded hole in that area (such as for a 1.6 fan switch), you can get some flat aluminum plate from the hardware store and drill a few holes in it.
Blocking the front is the easy part.
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