If you can physically fit them in place, they're very nearly the best available solution. Extremely reliable, and they perform well. OEM fans, and the shroud which goes around them, are designed to last forever and perform well under all conditions. Aftermarket fans are mostly designed to look cool (no pun intended) and be somehow noticeably different from the competition.

As deezums noted, this can be an issue with some radiators.

That having been said, you don't need a massive radiator for a street-driven car at modest power levels. I had some unremarkably average aluminum radiator (CSF, maybe?) in my turbo '92 (dynoed at ~ 210 WHP) and along with a rear-thermostat reroute and stock fans wired in parallel, I never had any overheating issues. This included multi-hour cruises in the canyons of SoCal, driving across the Sonoran desert in August, and regular stop-n-go driving in south Florida. The OEM fan housing fit just fine with an RB solid front bar. Not even close to interfering.

 

Sledgehammer and sawzaw, drill holes in radiator brackets to move it forward. Hit the top core lip over so it don't wear holes in radiator tanks. Make AC condenser tabs go bye.

I still have stock swaybar though, no way it'd work with anything more.

That's about all I've got on this one so far.

Oh wait, the fan threaded nubs didn't line up to stock fans on my ebay radiator. I used 1/8" strapping to make them fit. I can get pictures if you are confused.

They are the best fans to run, they kick *** and are free.

 

Tentative shopping list:

Altrom Imports ATM1541302 - Thermostat - OE Specified Temp 190 Degree F / 88 C
Engine Coolant Thermostat Cover & Gasket Kia Sephia Spectra 98-04 #0K247-15172A
Coolant Reroute Kit for Mazda MX-5 Miata 1989-2005
Radiator Coolant Hose-Molded Coolant Hose Upper GATES 22436
CXRacing-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-for-Miata-90-97-MX5-MT-Mazda

I did some research on the CXRacing radiators and they get pretty rave reviews.

The re-route kit includes a spacer and block plate: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272082680363...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Well, well. Look what arrived today. Guess what I'm doing this weekend?




Now that I've actually inspected it, it looks pretty intimidating.

 

Went driving with the new suspension. I ended up installing the Eibach front sway bar and removing the rear OEM sway bar as suggested. Clicked the Flex's up to 4 start with.

Initial impressions: The car feels way more planted and road feedback is better. There's still a bit of predictable oversteer--although, as a former MR2 and Boxster driver, what you guys call oversteer, I call tail wagging--but I attribute that to the absolute garbage tires that came on the car.

I was a bit surprised at how decent the ride quality is. Definitely happy overall and eager to go get an alignment. New wheels and tires are on the way, as well.

 

Also, wanted to post a picture of my Christmas present from the fiancee. She loves cars and is completely on board with the turbo miata. Dual income, no kids for life!

Momo Gotham steering wheel:

 

 

Yeah, definitely a keeper. She's made me promise her we can do a 240z and 911 build someday. I'm crazy about her, obviously.

 

You get GF cats.

 

Well, that was fast. The welds aren't too terrible; I'm sure it'll work for street duty.

 

Why did you buy that? That's not the radiator you are looking for...

 

You're right. I double checked and they sent me the NB radiator instead of the NA. Thanks for the catch--I might have left it in the closet until install day!

 

No biggie, glad to help!

 

New shoes.

 

Went for the heliums afterall, eh? Should be a nice upgrade over the steelies.

 

For 11.2 pounds each, the price was too good to pass up.

I've got a set of Nittos en route as well. Can't wait to get rid of the Fuzion HR1 tires that came with the car. (480 UTQG and T-rated. BARF.)

 

Making (slow) progress on the DIYPNP. Some of these solder joints are really small!

 

Serious question:

What kind of iron are you using, what tip does it have in it, and what type and size of solder do you use?

And which solder joints are you finding to be small?


I ask because, for someone with a little experience and decent tools, the solder pads on a DIYPNP are huge and laughably simple to work with. Normally, people only complain when they need to do fine-pitch surface mount work.

 

I agree, you aren't using a woodburning iron are you?

The tri leg transistors had the closest pin spacing IIRC. What are the small round flat faced ones called?

 

I know, I'm a soldering amateur and I have huge fingers.

It's a Weller cordless. I'm using the original tip as my local hardware store doesn't carry soldering iron tips.

I'm fairly certain the solder is 0.03, 60/40.