I despise all non-butane portables.

You need a simple plugin 20-30W weller deal from ace hardware.

 

I may hold off until I can get a plugin. I actually went to the hardware store yesterday to get one, a new tip, and some more wick.

Not only did they not have tips, the guy behind the counter had never even heard of solder wick. I had to google it and show it to him on my phone.

Suffice to say, I'll be making the long drive into town to shop at a real hardware store from now on.

 

I just saved you a ton of time:




buy the $7 radio shack 45watt iron.

 

Thanks, Brain-- I didn't see this on their site.

I have the "V1.5B" board, does that make any difference?

 

It's a slight revision, bet it's still all the same. You don't need the stuff Brian pictures, and this is why.

 

Excellent. Many thanks, guys. I'm going to grab a plugin and some wick today and re-tackle this bastard.

 

guess they raised prices after they close all their stores -- cause that's good business.

https://www.radioshack.com/products/...ant=5717856645

I used that for years and years and years.


but im now using a REALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLY cheap weller that I hate compared to it.

 

+1 on the Radio Shack irons.

All the Radio Shack stores around my area are still open, thankfully. They've even kept the Radio Shack brand name.

Of course, I'm they're nightmare customer -- the guy that comes in to buy a package of resistors for $0.76 when they really want to be selling cellphones or something.

 

Depending on where you are in California Fry's Electronics might be an option as well. They aren't what they used to be in the electronics area but last time I was at my local Fry's they still had a bunch of stuff that you couldn't easily find anywhere else. They have saved my bacon many times.

 

I found a nearby Radio Shack rebranded as e-stuff+. Go figure. I got the generic soldering iron, fine tip, some more 0.03 60/40, solder wick and a new pair of snips. Ready to rock.

 

It's about a million times easier with this soldering iron. I didn't even have problems with those three-legged capacitors.

Progress: (Ignore the four resistors in the IAC section, I soldered those before Brain posted.)

 

Gaz inspects my soldering.

 

No, not 60/40. You want 63/37. It is eutectic and therefore easier to use and make good joints. I suggest "no-clean" core. Make sure that you do not move the parts as they cool. There are lots of guides on the internet. Here is one: 7.1.1 Soldering Basics

 

So I've finished everything except for the adapter board jumpers. Before I continue, is there anything custom or non-standard that I should do?

I have a 1996 and I'd like to run boost control through MS. I will be using an IAT to delete my MAF.

 

You can use evap purge valve wiring for ebc if I'm not mistaken. I think the clutch switch might be there too, for launch control. Go look up a ECU wiring diagram for your year and poke about.

 

For radiator fan, I've got:

Relay 1 Mainboard PA0 to ConnectorBoard 1A

Does that look right?

 

Maybe, I have mine on wled or aled.

Looks like I use pa0 for EBC. EBC won't work on wled or aled, so I'd probably use one of them.

 

Can I jumper the evap purge signal pinout to the boost control in, or do I need to run it through something else?

 

The diypnp grounds a 12v feed to switch the valve on, so you can use the evap line as that ground line. You have to use the boost transistor circuit, though, not direct. PA0 -> boost in, boost out -> then to ecu jumper.

I think there's 12V right there too, at least on my 1.6. Pretty sure that's how the evap solenoid works, anyway. Too bad it's not meant for boost stock.

 

The evap purge solenoid (in stock form) is fed 12v by the white/red wire (same Main Relay wire that supplies damn near everything else) and expects a closure to ground on the yellow / red wire at 4T.





Does this valve actually work reliably when PWMed for EBC? Never tried it.