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Old 11-03-2009, 06:51 PM   #1
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Default DJP0623's Build Thread

Until about two weeks ago this has been more of a collection process than a build process. My current setup is in my sig. The new setup will include a 95 1.8l with 99 head and intake, 84mm supertech pistons, mtuned rods, COPs, 550cc RX7 purple tops, diyPNP, six speed manual trans, ACT extreme PP and performance clutch disc, china 2860 (same as levnubin's), begi cast mani mated to my existing FM downpipe/exhaust.

The block, pistons, and rods were dropped off today at the machine shop. The diyPNP is in the car. The car starts and idles perfectly, but I still need to drive and tune it. I have already built the COP harness. I plan to tune the current setup with the diypnp, cops, and sequential injection before i pull the current motor and trans.

I will upload the pictures that I have so far when I get a chance.
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Old 11-04-2009, 04:48 PM   #2
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in for pics!
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:09 PM   #3
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Looking forward to those pics!
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:10 PM   #4
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Default A few initial pictures before the 1.6 gets pulled

Here's my diyPNP build.









I did remove excess heat sink paste






I should have taken one final pic before install. There are a few more wires connected in the completed ECU.



I'm going to try to mount this ecu in the stock location. I made need to make some spacers to mount the cover panel. I might then run the 9 pin serial into the glove box or the center console.

COPs





Six Speed



99 Head



Spare 1.8 that is a 38k jdm engine. I bought it for $600 shipped and it came with ACT extreme PP and organic clutch, FM conversion kit, etc etc. Basically a complete spare parts engine with some extra goodies.
My other block is at the machine shop as stated above.



Current Situation



Attempt at a somewhat artistic photo of my miata.

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Old 11-05-2009, 12:15 PM   #5
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Looking nice.

I put my ECU in the glovebox thinking it was slick and found out I hate driving and datlogging with glovebox open. It bounces a lot and early 90s plastic likes to crack.

I also took out my window switch last night and now I KNOW I should have done it differently. I now plan to run a serial to that spot a la Brain.

If I could go back the MS would be in OEM spot or behind center dash pillar with a cable run to center console. Keep the laptop cables and cool breeze scooped closed in the glove box.
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Old 11-18-2009, 12:03 AM   #6
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Default Doner block tear down

Donor engine is starting to serve it's purpose. Block (with pistons and crank) and head will be for sale.

Start:


Finish:
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:28 PM   #7
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How hard was it to wire up the M.S.? and good luck!
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Old 11-20-2009, 11:04 AM   #8
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Physically wiring and soldering everything is pretty easy. Going from a LINK where everything is hands off and fairly automated to MS where everything is hands on was initially a pain.

Fortunately we have patient forum members and diyautotune has fantastic customer support. I feel that this new MS was also used as a segway into TunerStudio, which I really like. I have never used megatune so I can not compare, and I have no confusion between the two platforms.

For those thinking about doing this, I say go for it. Between Ben's 99 diypnp, and the other large diypnp thread I think that most questions related to the miata are covered. I asked many many newb questions since it was my first venture into MS. There are also many other MS threads that helped me along the way.

Here are my wiring instructions. With a lot of other applicable info that I have found on this site.
Attached Files
File Type: xls Installation instructions.xls (846.5 KB, 132 views)

Last edited by miatauser884; 11-24-2009 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 11-28-2009, 02:30 PM   #9
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Default Getting nonlinear AEM wbo2 working in tunerstudio

I managed to finlly get my non linear aem gauge working in tunerstudio. The values I am getting in tuner studio makes sense. i.e 19.5 afr while car is off and about 13 while it is idling.

There are two locations in tunerstudio that have to be setup correctly to get the proper o2 readings. The first is in the project settings. There is a selection for non linear AEM gauges in this section. AEM uego 23xx. The second area is under tools -> calibrate afr. This it seems, is where the afr table values are sent to the ecu. There is no setting in this section for the nonlinear aem gauge.

There is however an inc file "aemWBo2.inc" in the tunerstudio -> inc directory. I plotted these values against the data set that AEM sent me. They are spot on.

So

I went into ms2referencetables.ini and scrolled down to the calibrate aft table section. I then added the following line:

solution = "AEM Non_Linear AEM-30-23xx", { table(adcValue*5/1024 , "aemWBo2.inc") }

This now adds a "AEM Non_Linear AEM-30-23xx" selection to the tools->calibrate afr drop down menu.
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Old 12-18-2009, 12:34 PM   #10
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I just got my engine back from the builder and I am quite pleased. It was a little more expensive than I expected, but I think the added insurance is worth it. The total for all assembly, full gasket set, bearings, weld bung onto oil pan, bead blast valve cover came to $886. There was a $75 cleaning fee that I though was in the $195 short block assembly, but it was not. However, when I called about this they said that every part has to be cleaned before assembly. Translation: If motor dies because crap was found in it, then I am covered. I will also post my work orders so others will have a better idea of what to expect when haveing an engine built.

I'll get pics up as soon as I get the motor out of the xterra and on the stand. It's raining and cold today so I don't feel like fooling with it. Plus I am in the middle of remodeling my living room.



Last edited by miatauser884; 12-21-2009 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 12-18-2009, 01:42 PM   #11
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I spent more than that at the machine shop, and had less done.


In for pics
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Old 12-21-2009, 11:42 AM   #12
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Short block is back!




Last edited by miatauser884; 12-21-2009 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 01-27-2010, 11:45 PM   #13
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Default 99 head rebuild

I just got my 99 head back from the head shop. Southern cylinder head in Huntsville, AL $320 included disassemble, reassemble, back cut valves and 3 angle valve job on the intake and exhaust.









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Old 01-29-2010, 03:33 PM   #14
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I'm getting ready to order my oil and water line stuff.

I'm going to get ARtech's water line kit


with banjo upgrade


This oil feed kit since I have to tap into the sender:
stealthmode//performance


This adapter
stealthmode//performance



My drain line is going to be a custom one from Paragon:
Stainless Steel Braided PTFE Hose, Heat Pump Hose, Fan Coil Hookup, Power Trim Hose,Fiberglass Resin Transfer Hose, Biodiesel, Brake Lines, Fuel Lines,, Heat Pump Hoses, Silicone Hose, etc.

-10 hose with female swivel nut ends and coated with clear coating. I will then use a -10 to 1/2 NPT to go into my oil pan, and one end will be -10 to 3/8 NPT to go onto the turbo.

It should be a really nice setup. I wish the oil feed line wasn't 48", but their $42 price tag is really difficult to beat/ Especially with the adapter they include.

Last edited by miatauser884; 01-31-2010 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 01-29-2010, 03:47 PM   #15
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Your price for machine work is unbelievably cheap. I am jealous. You started almost to the day that I started, and I'm not even in shortblock status, nor do I even have a usable head.

You suck.
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Old 01-30-2010, 07:27 PM   #16
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The engine is starting to come together. I was going to plug the front water passage, but now I'm going to use the stock neck for the water supply for the turbo and just use a block of plate.

Please comment on my timing setup here. I followed info in another thread. I and E almost vertical, 19 teeth between to sprocket marks, crank marker lined up at same time. It seems like it should be golden. My picture that should the crank sprocket alignment is corrupt and I already put my engine away for the evening (in corner covered in plastic)

I put my adjustable cam gear on the intake cam. This should be bueno after looking at Y8's results.





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Old 01-30-2010, 07:53 PM   #17
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Timing looks good to me, although I can't comments on the adjustable gear, I've never played with one. Why not use a block off plate instead of the water neck and drill and tap it for a hose barb? Or since you seem to have the hook up for tig welding, cut off the thermostat housing and weld a plate over that with a hose barb sticking out. Much stealthier than a huge thermostat housing sticking out of the engine, solely for the purpose of a 3/8" water line.
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Old 01-30-2010, 07:54 PM   #18
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Looks good, it will fire right up given that everything else is done is working properly. Timing is on, as long as the mark on the crank is lined up properly.
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Old 01-30-2010, 08:06 PM   #19
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Make sure those cam gears are tight! Lol i put my motor back together and im pretty sure i cranked those down to the recommend torque specs, and the exhaust side backed out like a tiny bit. Then i had a crazy ticking noise i thoguht i broke a lifter, guy whole built my motor told me to pull it so i did. But it was cause the cam gear bolt backed out and the cam gear was loose so everytime it turned the cam it was ticking cause it was sloppy from it being loose it made bigger hole in the cam. Whata PIA and waste of time.
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Old 01-30-2010, 08:14 PM   #20
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Very cool. Looks like you're enjoying this build.
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