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Old 01-31-2010, 03:20 PM   #21
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Default sheet aluminum

Just an fyi.

I'm sick of looking at the bullshit prices that are being charged for block off plates Here is a 12" x 12" 6061 aluminum sheet 3/8" thick for $30

Sure, my blockoff plates won't have nice rounded edges because I only have a bandsaw to work with. I might have to get a cheap harbor freight bench grinder.

Make two of your own blockoff plates and it pays for itself. Make a few for friends for $10 bucks and you got 'em for free. You also did your friend a favor.

McMaster-Carr

Here's another site, but I don't understand all of the plus thicknesses. Could be cheaper, but I have to place an order with Mcmaster for t-bolt clamps anyway.
http://www.onlinemetalstore.com/item...omments=&qty=1
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Old 01-31-2010, 03:37 PM   #22
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VERY nice build man.
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:47 PM   #23
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Default 3" Exhaust plans

Now that my build is really moving along I decided to look into my exhaust situation.

I'll be using a begi cast manifold, and an older FM 2.5" dp. (maybe 2.25", I have to check)

I'm going to the two pieces of dp welded into one. Right now it rattles because the stud that is used to hold them together snapped 1/4 of the way up and you can't put a nut on there to tighten it.

The exhaust guy can't get ss tube so I'm buying it from Columbia river bending. Just as the DP starts to bend under the firewall I'm going to have him weld on a 2.5" to 3" cone and a mild steel vband fitting.

Then I'm switching to 16ga 304 3" stainless. It will start with an SS vband fitting onto a piece of 3"flex. Then 3" tubing to a dynomax muffler, more tubing then a test pipe, then split into duel exhaust.

I'm keeping duel exhaust because my rear lip is cut for it and I think it will look goofy without it.

Unfortunately I have to have a cat in place at the time of welding (or the state can fine him 10k), but he is going to make me a test pipe.

What is the cheapest way to modify my FM 2.5" cat to fit on 3" pipe? 3-2.5 reducers and new 3bolt connectors? I really don't want to spend a lot since it will be pulled off as soon as I get to the house. Can 2.5" pipe be stretched to 3"?
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:05 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
I wish the oil feed line wasn't 48", but their $42 price tag is really difficult to beat/ Especially with the adapter they include.
djp, I am going the same oil feed route as you, from the OP sender/oil filter side. If 48" is too long, what's just right? I think I'm going to have Abe at ARTech fab me up a custom length, along with the water and drain lines. I already have the tee (I think it's -4) from FM.

I'm still jealous of the progress of your build. You still suck.
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:12 PM   #25
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To be honest I haven't measured anything. I'm thinking 42" to 44" would suffice, but it probably depends on how you need to route it dued to manifold and turbo orientation. I'd rather it be 6" to long then .5" too short. I tried to get Abe to start doing the later 1.8 oil setups. Pressure him and maybe with enough interest he will start. Just make sure you get a tee that has the appropriate npt and bspt threads. Remember, just because a tee as a male bspt end to go into the block doesn't mean it has a bspt femal end for the oil sender. A lot of them only have the right thread to go into the block. That stelath site has the special tee for 20 bucks.

Overall my water and oil line setup is costing me $240. Ouch. I didn't want to deal with a lot of rubber hose and hose clamps.
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:31 PM   #26
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nice build
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
To be honest I haven't measured anything. I'm thinking 42" to 44" would suffice, but it probably depends on how you need to route it dued to manifold and turbo orientation. I'd rather it be 6" to long then .5" too short. I tried to get Abe to start doing the later 1.8 oil setups. Pressure him and maybe with enough interest he will start. Just make sure you get a tee that has the appropriate npt and bspt threads. Remember, just because a tee as a male bspt end to go into the block doesn't mean it has a bspt femal end for the oil sender. A lot of them only have the right thread to go into the block. That stelath site has the special tee for 20 bucks.

Overall my water and oil line setup is costing me $240. Ouch. I didn't want to deal with a lot of rubber hose and hose clamps.
Thanks a lot, man. I bought the tee from FM with one of my last orders, not even sure what the oil feed end size is. I will either figure this out and just have Abe build me up a 48 incher, or wait and have the local hose guy build it up for me custom. The rest, I'm going to go with the standard stuff that Abe has, stainless to silicone. I had been thinking about drilling and tapping the mixing manifold with NPT and putting a 1/8" NPT ell on it, but now I say **** it, that can be part of next year's project. I've also given up on doing the freeze plug in the front of the head, because I just don't want to reinvent the wheel with grabbing water for the turbo and fan switch. So, eff that, too, I'll just use the blockoff plate on the neck.

That being said, I just picked up my first little batch of fittings for the fueling, like you, I think I'll have over $200 in the little bit required to go from the 5/16 car hard lines to the dual rail to the afpr and back.
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Old 02-02-2010, 05:43 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webby459 View Post
Thanks a lot, man. I bought the tee from FM with one of my last orders, not even sure what the oil feed end size is. I will either figure this out and just have Abe build me up a 48 incher, or wait and have the local hose guy build it up for me custom. The rest, I'm going to go with the standard stuff that Abe has, stainless to silicone. I had been thinking about drilling and tapping the mixing manifold with NPT and putting a 1/8" NPT ell on it, but now I say **** it, that can be part of next year's project. I've also given up on doing the freeze plug in the front of the head, because I just don't want to reinvent the wheel with grabbing water for the turbo and fan switch. So, eff that, too, I'll just use the blockoff plate on the neck.

That being said, I just picked up my first little batch of fittings for the fueling, like you, I think I'll have over $200 in the little bit required to go from the 5/16 car hard lines to the dual rail to the afpr and back.
I just ordered my 12" x 12" aluminum sheet to make my blockoff plate at the head. I can probably use a hols saw to make the groove for the o-ring. If you do a coolant rerout the begi spacer has an extra port where you can put the fan activation switch. This is what I will be doing. Stephanie at begi said you could actually tap a freeze plug and use some fitting to get you rturbo water feed line.

"Use a bushing like fitting. Corky says it would be ok too. I would
not be surprised if you had to buy the fitting, and then pay to machine the
fitting needed."

I don't understand what the bushing like fittin gis, but it might be worth looking into.

The water neck sticking out will bother you. It just doesn't look right.
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:12 AM   #29
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I just measured the diam. of my FM dp, midpipe, cat back.

The dp and midpipe seem to be 2.25" and cat back is fm high flow cat with 2.5" ss duel exhaust.

I'm reconsidering my previous plan to modify my dp. I now want to leav it so that I could sell it later if I wanted.

Is it still ok to go from 2.25" to 3" or should I really be looking into upgrading my dp?
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:28 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
Just make sure you get a tee that has the appropriate npt and bspt threads. Remember, just because a tee as a male bspt end to go into the block doesn't mean it has a bspt femal end for the oil sender. A lot of them only have the right thread to go into the block. That stelath site has the special tee for 20 bucks.
Strange, but unless the bspt and npt are close enough to be equivalent, my old B6 block and the op sender (large, real) seem to both be threaded 1/8" npt. Does this make sense? Also, it seems FM sent me an npt tee, one AN ell, and some unidentifiable AN to coarse thread thingy. I should probably count on by BP block to be threaded bspt, and get a bspt to npt coupler, and use the tee that I already have.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
I just ordered my 12" x 12" aluminum sheet to make my blockoff plate at the head. I can probably use a hols saw to make the groove for the o-ring. If you do a coolant rerout the begi spacer has an extra port where you can put the fan activation switch. This is what I will be doing. Stephanie at begi said you could actually tap a freeze plug and use some fitting to get you rturbo water feed line.

"Use a bushing like fitting. Corky says it would be ok too. I would
not be surprised if you had to buy the fitting, and then pay to machine the
fitting needed."

I don't understand what the bushing like fittin gis, but it might be worth looking into.

The water neck sticking out will bother you. It just doesn't look right.
+1 on the water neck bothering me. The deal is, the m-tuned spacer I'm using has 4 ports total. One for the upper rad hose, one for the heater hose, one for the one-wire H2O sender, one for the two-wire green H2O sender. This leaves me needing two more water ports, one for turbo feed, and one for the front H2O sender, which I think is the fan switch. I'm thinking of just using the front neck from the later motor, which I have a block off plate for. I'd run the turbo feed from one of the metal barbs coming off the side of the neck, and block off the other. The block off plate has a threaded hole that will fit the one wire front sender, and afaik, I'd be done.

BTW, is there consensus on running water to the throttle body? I didn't plan on it. I am using the tb from the 1.6.

If you want me to stop hijacking your thread, just write **** off in a post, and I will probably get the hint. My feeling won't be hurt.

Oh, and there is no ******* way I would tap a freeze plug to grab water. If I were that desperate for another water port, I would make some sort of mani or tee assembly.
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:34 PM   #31
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source the water for the turbo off the side of the block next to the oil feed. exhaust it to the upper or lower rad hose..
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:30 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webby459 View Post
One for the upper rad hose
one for the heater hose
one for the one-wire H2O sender
one for the two-wire green H2O sender.

This leaves me needing two more water ports
one for turbo feed
and one for the front H2O sender
which I think is the fan switch
rad hose = done
heater hose = done
one wire h2o sender triggers the fan with the stock 1.6 computer
I put the 2-wire water temp sensor in the head but the m-tuned location works
the little, 1/4" npt single plug sensor is for the water temp gauge

I'm using the 99 throttle body on my 1.6 MSpnp, I recommend you do the same. I have the settings for the 1.8, 1.8NA, and 1.8NB IAC. Email me at [email protected] later tonight when I'm home so I'll remember and I'll send them all to you.

I'm currently triggering the fans off the boost control output (JS2?) vampire-clipped into the 1.6 fan switch wire. There are some configuration istructions for this which I can post later if you need it.
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:30 PM
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:02 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webby459 View Post
Strange, but unless the bspt and npt are close enough to be equivalent, my old B6 block and the op sender (large, real) seem to both be threaded 1/8" npt. Does this make sense? Also, it seems FM sent me an npt tee, one AN ell, and some unidentifiable AN to coarse thread thingy. I should probably count on by BP block to be threaded bspt, and get a bspt to npt coupler, and use the tee that I already have.



+1 on the water neck bothering me. The deal is, the m-tuned spacer I'm using has 4 ports total. One for the upper rad hose, one for the heater hose, one for the one-wire H2O sender, one for the two-wire green H2O sender. This leaves me needing two more water ports, one for turbo feed, and one for the front H2O sender, which I think is the fan switch. I'm thinking of just using the front neck from the later motor, which I have a block off plate for. I'd run the turbo feed from one of the metal barbs coming off the side of the neck, and block off the other. The block off plate has a threaded hole that will fit the one wire front sender, and afaik, I'd be done.

BTW, is there consensus on running water to the throttle body? I didn't plan on it. I am using the tb from the 1.6.

If you want me to stop hijacking your thread, just write **** off in a post, and I will probably get the hint. My feeling won't be hurt.

Oh, and there is no ******* way I would tap a freeze plug to grab water. If I were that desperate for another water port, I would make some sort of mani or tee assembly.
npt and bspt are very similar. Apparently most people jsut cross thread the bspt.
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:03 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
source the water for the turbo off the side of the block next to the oil feed. exhaust it to the upper or lower rad hose..
My block isn't tapped for the water or oil feed lines on the turbo side.
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:22 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
My block isn't tapped for the water or oil feed lines on the turbo side.
get the water from the nipple on the back of the head that feeds the oil cooler/heater. I run water to the t-body because I sometimes drive it when its cold out and I don't want to be "Toyota'd."
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:24 PM   #36
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Alright people. Last time before I buy......

This:

TITLE
TB28 Turbo Charger
APPLICATION
Universal, Fits all cars and trucks, Modification maybe required
DESCRIPTION
Designed for quick spool application
Perfect Upgrade for GT25 Silvia S13 SR20det Turbocharger with difference downpipe flange
2.5" Inlet Diameter
Journal Bearing - Wet Float Type
Internal wastegate set at Approx 10 Psi
t25 Flange
Oil Lub, Oil/Water Cool
Ideal for smaller displacement engines making up to 350hp
Compressor Wheel
0.60 A/R Cold Side
Ind: 42.50 mm
Exd: 60 mm
Trim: 50
Turbiner Wheel
.49 A/R
Garrett 4 Bolt T25 Flange
Ind: 52.90 mm
Exd: 45.47 mm
Turbo Comes With Its Own Serial Numbe, WELL BALANCED.

OR

TITLE
GT28 Turbo Charger (The blue hose and fitting are not includes)
APPLICATION
Universal, Fits all cars and trucks, Modification maybe required
DESCRIPTION
Perfect Upgrade for GT25/GT28
3" Inlet Diameter
Journal Bearing - Wet Float Type
Internal wastegate set at Max 25 Psi
t25 Flange
Oil Lub, Oil/Water Cool
Ideal for smaller displacement engines making up to 420hp
Compressor Wheel
0.60 A/R Cold Side
Ind: 54.00 mm
Exd: 70 mm
Trim: 60
Turbiner Wheel
.64 A/R
Garrett 4 Bolt T25 Flange
Ind: 52.90 mm
Exd: 45.47 mm

With Installation Kit as shown in Pictures
Turbo Comes With Its Own Serial Numbe, WELL BALANCED.

I promise I won't ask this again
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:28 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
npt and bspt are very similar. Apparently most people jsut cross thread the bspt.
My builder already just ran a 1/8" npt tap through the bspt port, so that's all set.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
My block isn't tapped for the water or oil feed lines on the turbo side.
Neither is mine, it's a 97 block. It just has a flat where the oil port machining used to occur, like the nub where my ***** once was. There are no plugged water ports on either side of the block, either. I asked this before elsewhere, but what about making or sourcing a little npt manifold block, run a hose from the mtuned spacer to the new water manifold, and profit by using this water for the turbo and the fan switch? Would it be ok to use water from the back of the head to feed the turbo? Would the low-ish flow through this mani **** up the temp for the switch reference?

Also, what about the water to the tb?
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:34 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
get the water from the nipple on the back of the head that feeds the oil cooler/heater. I run water to the t-body because I sometimes drive it when its cold out and I don't want to be "Toyota'd."
Artech already sent out my water line kit. I'm not sure if I will have enough hose. If yes, then I will do this and block of the front water port on the head with a freeze plug
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Old 02-04-2010, 06:59 PM   #39
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Here is the turbo I selected. I offered $280 and it was accepted. Free shipping. Speedy racer out of Indianapolis.

GT28 Turbo Charger (The blue hose and fitting are not includes)
APPLICATION
Universal, Fits all cars and trucks, Modification maybe required
DESCRIPTION
Perfect Upgrade for GT25/GT28
3" Inlet Diameter
Journal Bearing - Wet Float Type
Internal wastegate set at Max 25 Psi
t25 Flange
Oil Lub, Oil/Water Cool
Ideal for smaller displacement engines making up to 420hp
Compressor Wheel
0.60 A/R Cold Side
Ind: 54.00 mm
Exd: 70 mm
Trim: 60
Turbiner Wheel
.64 A/R
Garrett 4 Bolt T25 Flange
Ind: 52.90 mm
Exd: 45.47 mm
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Old 02-07-2010, 04:33 PM   #40
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I finished my waterneck blockoff plate. It's not the prettiest machined part, but it should work. I tapped it for a 1/4 npt. The problem is that I can't test it for leaks until the engine is in the car. If the fitting leaks, then I will probably just jb weld it onto the aluminum. If the blockoff plate leaks, then damn, that is going to be a pain in the ***. I cut a groove for an o-ring, and used the gray sealant so it should be golden.

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