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Old 05-02-2010, 04:51 PM   #61
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Which valve cover should I use. I planned from the start was to use the non miata valve cover. However, there is something to be said for having a little bit of protection around the timing belt.





I forgot to mention in my previous post that I got the trans hooked up and lines bled. I'm really glad I purchased the hose that deletes the curly-Q. It was really easy when installation began. The slave cylinder had a slight leak so I'm glad I had already planned on rebuilding it. I removed the old nasty fluid using the trick with a rubber hose into a bottle with a little fluid in it. Air escapes, but can't get back in. The clutch feel is much stiffer with the new clutch. I replaced an exedy stage 1 with an ACT xtreme/organic disc. I'll also be using the FM clutch override switch. I forgot to check the vetical position of the trans when the ppf was tightened, so I will have to double check this.

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Old 05-04-2010, 02:45 AM   #62
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Default poly bushing install

My prothane bushings arrived tonight and I decided to give the install a try. It took 30min per corner (this did not include sway bar or endlinks) Most of the time is spent applying the lubricating goop. Someone needs to find a spray-on goop.

I would never recommend anyone attempting the endlink bushings unless you have a press. I used a 3 point puller on one, and realized that it was a waste of my time. I'm taking the endlinks to have the old bushings removed and the new bushings pressed in. I spent an hour getting 1 bushing out and couldn't get the new one in.

Prothane bushings come in 2 piece and 3 piece setups.









I have a concern about the zerk fittings with the solid 1 piece bushing. There is no way for the grease to get down to the metal core. Should I drill a hole through the bushing to the metal insert so that the grease can get there?

My next concern is that the front endlink bushings came with the metal cores. The rears do not. I guess I am supposed to burn the rubber off of the rears. There would be too much slop if I just use the rear bushings as is. What's the opinion on this?

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Old 05-04-2010, 03:29 PM   #63
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I have a concern about the zerk fittings with the solid 1 piece bushing. There is no way for the grease to get down to the metal core. Should I drill a hole through the bushing to the metal insert so that the grease can get there?
Yep - that's what I did at least, and is what's advised in Emilio's write up:
http://949racing.com/installingzerkfittings.aspx
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Old 05-05-2010, 12:59 AM   #64
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After searching the interweb a little more, I decided to give the endlink bushing removal another go. This was also after a very reasonable shop said they would remove and install the bushings for $70. ouch! I burned them out and it went very smooth. Rather quickly actually. I'm going to try and press the bushing in with a vice int eh next couple of days. If nothing else, it will cut the bill to have them installed in half. Torch at HF was $17 after coupon. I already had the propane cylinders.

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Old 05-05-2010, 02:47 AM   #65
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Pressing the old ones out by hand SUCKS. Even with a HF bushing press tool, I couldn't get everything just right. Took hours. Burning looks much easier.
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Old 05-05-2010, 03:24 AM   #66
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Old 05-05-2010, 11:06 AM   #67
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Because they are equally gay? Not that they don't get the job done for cheap, but I think even on a street car, the amount of binding with that style "dogbone" link is far less than ideal. To me some kind of joint, like the NB links, or the 949 links are almost required, especially on non stock anti-sway bars.
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Old 05-05-2010, 10:02 PM   #68
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I was able to get the bushings in with ease using a table mounted vice. One side of the bushing will pop in, then I had to apply a little pressure to the other side as the bushing started to flex. I just kept cranking until they went in. The supplied metal sleeves slid in with eas. The rears that I reused needed the vise to help them along. The poly lube is nasty stuff. I didn't have gloves on and found out how hard it is to wash off. I had to used WD40 to get if off. Soap wouldn't work. It's very waterproof stuff.
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Old 05-06-2010, 10:12 PM   #69
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SO the diff bushings are a bitch. I tried the in car removal method and it was a no go. I removed the diff (about 20 min), which was surprisingly easy and worth it. I burned out the rubber bushing. Then found out, when I went to install the new bushing, that the rubber bushing sits inside a metal sleeve. After beating on the frozen in place sleeve with a hammer and punch, I decided to give it some PBblaster. It is currently soaking. I am now going to return to the garage and whack on it some more.
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Old 05-06-2010, 10:59 PM   #70
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I think I'll pay a shop when I do mine!
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Old 05-07-2010, 12:27 AM   #71
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I think that there is a chance you could get them out with an air hammer if you hit them with PBblaster. I also think that it is a slim chance. I had to beat the **** out of that metal sleeve with a punch and a 5 lb hammer. I think that I could have probably avoided torching the rubber part if I realized it was encased by the metal sleeve.

Regardless, the diff is back in the car with fancy new poly bushings. Good times. Total out of pocket for bushing replacement. $173. It really was a good buy on the bushings. Complete set from ebay member $155 shipped priority mail. I don't know how they compare to energy suspension. I can already tell it has firmed up the diff just by shaking the diff by hand. I could move the the middle of the rubber bushing by hand.
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Old 05-10-2010, 01:08 AM   #72
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The car finally cam e alive tonight. It wasn't without a fight. I had forgotten to tighten the oil feed line to the turbo. Of course when i decided to turn the motor over with no spark to prime the engine I was left with a nice bit of oil under the car. Oh well, that's why you check for leaks before adding spark.

Then it wouldn't start because I had the fuel supply and return mixed up. Fixed that and still nothing. Checked for spark (ok), checked for fuel (ok) , checked that timing belt was good (ok). Wait a minute, what the f***! That should be everything you need to run. Well, it turns out that I timed the intake cam wrong because I was unfamiliar with the adjustable cam gear and didn't pay close enough attention. When everything is at TDC, the little notches on the end of the cams should be facing at 12 oclock. Then the intake cam sprocket has an I at 12oclock and the exhaust sprocket has an E at 12 oclock. I out my intake sprocket on with the cam notch at 3-oclock, yet I everything lined up because the adjustable cam sprocket has so many ways it can be set up. Fortunately I was able to fix that and get it timed again in about 45 min.

I advise people to keep a journal when doing a build. I remember leaving the oil supply line loose in case I needed to adjust it. I was then going to tighten it when I did a once over. So much other stuff distracted me, that I didn't go back to that. If I kept a journal that I filled out after each day of work, I could review my thoughts and know what I needed to go back and do.

I have an exhaust leak at the head/turbo manifold junction. I'm not really sure what to do. I'm not running any gaskets, and I haven't heat cycled it yet. I idled just long enough to set the base timing.

Tunerstudio was great at getting the idle dialed in. I set the wideband so it would work at anything above 0 rpm, then set the min coolant temp in the autotune to zero. I let tunerstudio autotune the idle. It immediately smoothed out the idle. I'll have to post some sound clips. Maybe my shock mounts will get here this week and I can get it off the jack stands.

I'm going to bed. It was a stressful day, but it ended up being rewarding. I can't wait until this project is done so I can start enjoying all of the hard work, time, and money that has gone into it.
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Old 05-10-2010, 05:54 PM   #73
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Definitly post some vids!
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Old 05-13-2010, 02:23 AM   #74
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For those that are confused about exhaust gaskets. Apparently you ARE supposed to use one at the head/manifold junction. I misinterpreted and didn't put an exhaust gasket anywhere. I fixed it tonight so hopefully there will be no more exhaust leak.

Here's a couple pics of the diff bushing install.







Bushings went in pretty easily when the metal sleeve was removed.

I also clocked my turbo for the final time. I bought a 90 degree elbow so I could clock it down. I bought a 4 ply elbow on ebay for 17 shipped. It had enough straight tube on each side of the 90 that you can cut the ends off to get 2 straight couplers and a 90 elbow. Great deal, and good quality.

It's not the most direct route, but it works. I'm tire of rotating the turbo and cutting pipe. It is what it is now.



The WG actuator arm is nice and straight now, which I like. No weird torque on the diaphragm.



The way I modified the turbo piping is nice. It no longer goes between the motor and fans, which made it a pain if you needed to get to the front of the motor.



Good times. I should have my suspension on this weekend and ready or an alignment Monday. Then happy days will be here again!
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Old 05-14-2010, 11:39 AM   #75
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I put all of my suspension components back on last night. I have to tighten everything tonight. I'm going to see if I can reasonably duplicate my alignment positions so that the ride over to the alignment shop isn't too unpredictable I received my FCM mount/bumpstop kit so I couldn't resist getting in the garage.

A couple of things I ran into. The threads on a couple of my shocks had to be cleaned up a bit. the special nut that comes with the FCM kit was getting hung up.

If you replace your bushings....... DOUBLE CHECK THAT YOU HAVE THE RIGHT METAL SLEEVES IN THE CORRECT LOCATION!

I don't know if it was the instructions, or I made a mistake. On both L and R I mixed up the bushings from the inner upper and lower outer control arms. Let me tell you how happy I was when I went to slide the final bolt in place and it didn't slide through the sleeve. I think the instructions were mislabeled since it happens the same way on both sides. When installing theses sleeves, have the bolt that slides through it handy so that you can test fit.

Tonight I should have everything tightened up. With any luck I will have it at the alignment shop Sat. AM. I'll take some pictures of the suspension. I'm going to run the FM alignment numbers.
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Old 05-15-2010, 05:08 AM   #76
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I've got the suspension all bolted up, torqued, and tires installed. With any luck I'll get to drive it tomorrow and not spring any unforeseen leaks. I still need to fab a new hold-down bracket for my COPs. I was able to setup the new alignment bolts to the old marks. It' has taken a lot longer than expected to get the suspension back together. I'll have to take a video of it running when I get everything buttoned up.
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Old 05-15-2010, 11:59 PM   #77
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My tires rub after my alignment. My ride height is lower than it was before the suspension change. What is the best solution to fix this problem?

EDIT: It may just be the liners. Is everyone here running with or without the fender liners?

Ride height: 11.5F/11.75R

I used the FM alignment data:

FM Recommended

Front
Caster: 5.0 degrees
Camber: 1.0 degrees negative
Toe: 1/16" total (1/32" per side)
Rear
Camber: 1.5 degrees negative
Toe: 1/16" total (1/32" per side)

Was my alignment choice stupid? I was planning on running RS3 225/45/15, but no way it will work at this point. I did read in a thread by hustler that Tannr's alignment was:

Camber : 2.7 f / 3 r
Caster: 6*
Toe: 0
"Ride height is ~11.5/11.75. I do want some more front camber next time i go back."

We have ~ the same ride height, so i would think that the tires would clear.

I can handle another $60 alignment if it fixes my problem, but I want to make sure it will.

What are my options? alignment, file the lip in the wheel well, fender roll, flares ????

I don't want the f***ing tires to rub anymore. Should a new alignment be in my future????
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Old 05-17-2010, 09:41 PM   #78
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I've got an oil leak coming from the front of the engine. sucks. The only thing I can think of is the front crank seal. This sorta pisses me off since I had an engine professionally put together, and now I have an oil leak fro a spot that would have been easy to fix when he motor was out of the car.

I guess the bright side is that timing the motor is easy, and the seal can be changed without removing the the oil pan. Any other guesses on where a leak from the front of the motor could come from?

Suspension still feels soooooo planted when I'm driving. My bumpstops rattle around though while I'm driving. I'm thinking about gluing them in place up towards the shock mount. Gorilla glue or silicone, I haven't decided yet.

I removed the frone wheel liners and I don't get rubbing under normal bumps. However I hit and up hill turn and really put the wheel in the fender. Makes me wonder if I should have kept the stock mounts on the front. Looks like I might have to get the spacers for the front. $5 bucks a pop, and Shaike recommends three on each side. Easy fix though since the washers can be cut and put on without dismantling the suspension. Well worth a $30 fix in my opinion.
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Old 05-19-2010, 01:44 AM   #79
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I replaced the front crank seal tonight. It appeared to be the source of the leak. No leaking after a short idle. I'll see tomorrow how it lasts under load.
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Old 05-19-2010, 02:20 AM   #80
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All looking excellent. Don't you love tire rub. Mine is about the same ride height as yours, mine may be .25'' lower all around though. Makes our terrible roads that much more noticeable.

So... you gonna give me a ride I think you're about the only person within 150 miles of me with what looks to be a damn nice, recently built turbo Miata. Maybe I will join you soon. Bama represent!!!
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