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Old 02-10-2010, 10:01 AM   #41
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hey, that's a good looking block off plate. looks like a great way to eliminate the water neck!
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:07 AM   #42
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Claimed Turbo specs:

Ideal for smaller displacement engines making up to 420hp
Compressor Wheel
0.60 A/R Cold Side
Ind: 54.00 mm
Exd: 70 mm
Trim: 60
Turbiner Wheel
.64 A/R
Garrett 4 Bolt T25 Flange
Ind: 52.90 mm
Exd: 45.47 mm

Rough estimate actual turbo specs measured with crappy plastic caliper:

Compressor
Ind53.1mm
Exd 69.7mm

exhaust
Ind 51.7mm
Exd 45.7mm

I have no idea what this means, but I guess it means it is close to a 2870 as claimed. Good Times!

My estimate is very close to their stated claim, so I'm gladI went with this turbo. Levnubhin 2860 that speced as 2871 might not be the norm.



It's got a casting imperfection on the intake runner. The exhaust nut has clearly been cut for balancing. It has a little shaft play, but I'm hoping that it won't be an issue when oil is running through it.
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Old 02-20-2010, 05:36 PM   #43
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Default Pulled engine today

I pulled the engine and trans today in 4 hrs. I figure that isn't too bad for a first timer. I wish I had a set of ratcheting wrenches. One of the bolts that attaches the radiator to the bracket broke of in the radiator. Now I have to get it out somehow.



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Old 03-13-2010, 07:37 PM   #44
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I did a little work today. I abandoned the diy fuel rail. I just don't have the time to fool with it. I spent today swapping over the accessories, adding the injectors and fuel rail.

Anyone know the belt part number for a car with no PS, but using AC?







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Old 04-01-2010, 10:21 AM   #45
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New exhaust. I will take pictures of mani and DP when it is in hand.



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Old 04-01-2010, 10:47 AM   #46
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That piece is kinda sexy. Can't stop staring at it!
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Old 04-01-2010, 01:13 PM   #47
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Hey djp, you suck.

What tps are you using on the 1.6 throttle body?
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Old 04-01-2010, 01:30 PM   #48
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Bando 4pk865 is the belt you need.
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Old 04-01-2010, 01:37 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webby459 View Post
Hey djp, you suck.

What tps are you using on the 1.6 throttle body?
It's the BMW one that railz sell every once in a while.
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:12 PM   #50
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I was doing fine at work today. It was busy, but manageable. Then, I received an email from fedex. Your package has arrived from Artech. From that point forward the only thing I wanted to do was get home and tear into the box that was waiting for me.

I arrived home from work and summoned the family to the deck. I grabbed a beer, scissors, and then hauled the box from the garage. With a hint of sarcasm i told my wife: "Be prepared to say wow." I pulled the smaller parts from the box and started to display them on the deck in the order in which they were to be assembled. I eventually pulled the DP from the box. "Wow, that is strangely pretty, it's almost like art. I didn't expect to see that.", she said.

It is really, really beautifully crafted. It really is a piece of art.





It was time to put it up. I absconded with he DP to the garage, but strangely, I found myself pacing back ad forth. I couldn't set it down. There wasn't a place nice enough, or worthy of this finely crafted breathing apparatus. It deserves better.......



The pictures really don't do it justice.

Thanks ArTech!!!
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Old 04-09-2010, 11:42 PM   #51
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I just got back inside after starting on my suspension dis-assembly. I hit all the control arm bolts with PB blaster last night. I was able to loosen them all tonight. It should make shock removal move swiftly tomorrow.

Once I get the springs and shocks separated I will move on to bushing removal. Bushing removal will be attempted using the three jaw puller method. http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=343801 However, some of my bushings look like they will fall out. I am going to try the "in the car" method for diff bushing replacement.
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Old 04-10-2010, 10:42 PM   #52
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I removed all the control arms. Unfortunately I have to replace the boots on the outer endlinks and the upper control arms. I found a thread that explained how to do this very easily. I think I am going to purchase some ES endlink caps. I think the poly will last longer than the rubber.

This is how the job went. Overall time was 3 hrs to remove the control arms and all of the bushings using the 3 arm puller.

For those that attempt this job; here are a few tips. Some of the alignment bolts may appear to be ceased. Double check that the bolt hasn't twisted in the alignment washer. The bolt is D-shaped, and the washer has a D-shaped passage in it. I found that a few of my bolts had twisted in this washer and become hung. I had to tap the washer with a punch until it was oriented correctly on the bolt. I was then able to pull the bolt free very easily. Before I moved the washer, the bolt would not budge while being hit with a hammer.

My next tip is to get a cheap electric impact gun. The three jaw puller works very well on the bushings that have a nice thick metal lip. The bushing housings on the control arms do not have the same wall thickness. Some are thinner than others. When removing the bushing with the thin wall; The hooks on the three arm puller would dig into the bushing. This caused the resistance to increase tremendously as you were now ripping the rubber as the bushing is ejected. I tried to stop and reorient, but it didn't help. Some bushings took 3 min, others took ten when the arms penetrated the bushing. An electric impact gun would make quick work of it in both situations. It would probably have shaved an hour off my time.

My rubber bushings were in really good shape (until I removed them, which rendered them unusable.) They had mazda part numbers on them, but I don't know if they were stock or stiffer mazda bushings. In other words, they probably didn't need to be replaced.

For the sake of time; If I did it again I would remove all the control arms, then see how much it would cost to have the old bushings pressed out at a shop. I would probably drop up to $50 bucks for the luxury of dropping off my parts and then picking them up later with no bushings.

All in all, it was still much easier than I expected. I'll let everyone know how easily the new bushings go in.

I also bought a tool at harbor freight for removing ball joints. $15 bucks after %20 off coupon. It takes 5 min to put on tool and pop of ball joint and endlinks. The process is violent, so be careful. When it lets go, it really pops off with a quickness.
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Old 04-11-2010, 04:36 PM   #53
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Update: I'm tired of spending money! Ohh, and uhh, I'm tired of spending money!
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Old 04-13-2010, 10:21 AM   #54
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I'm making headway.







I have to trim the water lines still, but it's coming together.
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Old 04-25-2010, 11:56 AM   #55
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I had a busy Friday night, but I made a lot of progress>







Nordlock washers were used on manifold/turbo (with 12.9 studs and 10.9 nuts) and turbo/DP (12.9 hardware) mcmaster sells them 5 for 7.50 iirc

Thank god my wife wondered where I was and came looking for me. I could get the motor 95% in, but I couldn't get the motor mounts into position. I had her control the hoist, and I was under the car lifting, twisting, and pulling. It only took about five minutes with help.

I decide to reclock the turbo last minute.



Unfortunately the wastegate orientation on the new turbo did not allow me to clock it like the previous FM setup. Outlet pointing at hood.

Now some of you are probably wondering why I selected the goofy orientation for the turbo. Two reasons.

1: This is my custom build, and one of my main goals is to have everything easily accessible for maintenance. When the turbo was clocked downward I needed a 90 degree elbo and it was sitting on the ac compressor. It basically made it impossible to access the ac compressor easily.

2: I wanted to be able to modify my current IC piping to fit on the new orientation so that I wouldn't have to purchase new piping.

The current orientation allows me to use the current piping, and provides plenty of access to anything that I need to work on. I hope to have the IC piping finished today.
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:54 AM   #56
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Default Coolant reroute hose

Autozone part XL 1215; It goes from kia water neck to radiator. No hardline is needed and it routes nicely.

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Old 04-26-2010, 09:02 AM   #57
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Get 'er done... Lookin good!

Can't wait for ya to join me at Barber soon. Think you'll be ready by June PCA event?
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Old 04-27-2010, 06:42 PM   #58
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June is out. Spending too much money going to Indy at the end of May, then bonnaroo in June. Studying for Part 2 of the ABR exam until September. I'd like to get to something this fall for sure.
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Old 05-02-2010, 02:40 AM   #59
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I'm starting to button everything up. hopefully I will have it running by next weekend. I definitely respect the guys that have nice clean/tucked engine bays. Mine engine bay looks pretty much the same as it did before. This is after I tried to tidy up some of the wires. In my effort to preserve my intercooler pipes I have created a lot of work. Mainly because the WG rod supplied witht he turbo doesn't allow my to clock the turbo in the orientation that my FM2 setup. I kind of wish I had just bought a new WG bracket, rod or whole WG setup. I might have been able to avoid spending all of the time fabbing the new setup out of old parts. I now have to decide which orientation for my air filter is less shitty.



I had to clock the turbo again because it was not allowing the hood to close.



Here are my two options for air filter location. Obviously I have to cut the pipe and attach it, so use your imagination. On orients the filter at a 45 degree angle and the other at a 90 that places it at the front of the motor.



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Old 05-02-2010, 01:19 PM   #60
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THe first air filter location reminds of the old dustpan fm/begi intake
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