Good idea for water lines? Or nay?

 

Looks good to me

 

I'm not sure those clear. its really ******* tight in there.

 

Which would you suggest?

 

Running pretty much all standard MS3 basic settings from Reverant and when the car starts, it idles well then oscillates between running correctly and getting really really lean like 18-19AFR, almost dying, then returning to normal and then back again.

Any diagnosis? Logs don't tell me too much.

 

They should fit. I used banjo to AN fittings and they fit just fine, so I suspect these, at a smaller overall diameter, to fit as well.

OP, just be careful to route your lines AWAY from the turbine side. Easy way to a BBQ.

 

Base maps get you started, and that is it. Tune the fuel and spark maps in the idle zones while running open loop idle until you get it stable.

 

Will do. I have the stainless wrapped in that vulcan heat wrap.

That's the thing, the idle is perfectly stable in open-loop, then transferred into closed-loop, everything is perfect 14.7 AFR at 10* timing.

My issue is narrowed down to just after start up for about 1min, IACV sounds wide open, fluctuates between a stable 13AFR (warming up) and then 20AFR sometimes dying because of that 20AFR if I have just started the car and it is full cold. Might try going open-loop then trying the start up procedure again, not sure if closed-loop is fighting my WUE or something.

I'll try to get a log and post it.

 

Is this on a cold start or a hot restart?

 

Both, much more severe on cold starts.

 

Nuts; I thought I was going to be useful for once, and suggest that it may be a IAT heat soak issue, but that would only happen on a hot restart.

Something that helped me understand the MS better was to open up my AFR, spark, and VE tables, and just watch them when the engine did strange things. If you haven't already tried that, it may help you understand the relationships between the tables better.

 

These maps look okay for my first runs into boost? I am still looking for a turner in SoCal that can really tune it probably sometime around June as I will have the turbo on and car going in March hopefully.

 

Noticed something weird. I have had this boost gaguge hooked up and it has never worked, but I was reversing yesterday and saw the gauge doing this. It only does this when in the car is in reverse. Otherwise the gauge just reads maxed out. Maybe I wired it in wrong?

 

Looks like a low buck ProSport........Yeah, they are not the most reliable at times.

 

I think that means that your turbo is on backwards so it only hits boost in reverse.

 

Probably a grounding issue or something. Or a faulty gauge/sender.

 

****, I will go fix that right now.

 

 

Boost to kpa, help me out. Kpa is pressure right? So it is always the same for all boost pressure's regardless of how large that turbo is/air it is pushing?

So 6psi turbo pressure would be roughly 140kpa? Even on my 6258 vs say a gt2554r? They would both hit 140kpa at 6psi, even if the 6258 is going to be pushing more air at 6psi?

 

KPa is a unit of pressure. PSI is a unit of pressure. Absolute pressure is just that, absolute. Gauge pressure is the measure of pressure above (or below) atmospheric. Atmospheric pressure is 100 KPa absolute, or 14.7 psi absolute. 100 KPa = 14.7 PSI. So, 6 PSI gauge = 141 KPa absolute. 14.7 PSI gauge = 200 KPa absolute = 100 KPa gauge.

They would both hit 140 KPa at 6 PSI because 140 KPa absolute IS 6 PSI gauge. Yes, you are correct that even though the pressure is the same, flow is not equal, and thus power is not equal for a given pressure.