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Sooo....I need some quick help if possible. Concealer404 and I pulled my transmission out to replace the clutch yesterday, and we saw that the rear main seal is leaking. I'm going to order a replacement, and I would like to just 3D print my own installation tool instead of ordering one from FM. Does anyone have the FM tool to measure the depth of the lip? Or has anyone ever measured the proper installed distance from the crank nose to the seal? The bolt pattern I can get from the flywheel, so that shouldn't be hard.
Sooo....I need some quick help if possible. Concealer404 and I pulled my transmission out to replace the clutch yesterday, and we saw that the rear main seal is leaking. I'm going to order a replacement, and I would like to just 3D print my own installation tool instead of ordering one from FM. Does anyone have the FM tool to measure the depth of the lip? Or has anyone ever measured the proper installed distance from the crank nose to the seal? The bolt pattern I can get from the flywheel, so that shouldn't be hard.
Already on it, My FM tool is on its way to his house
Small update to what is probably the most boring build thread ever.
I finally got the fuel pump upgraded to a Walbro 255 so I'm not running out of fuel in boost anymore. Lars also sent me a turbo adapter with the correct size wastegate flapper, so no more leaky wastegate. It's still creeping, though, so I'll need to port the wastegate some more.
Here is the list of projects that need tackling, in probable chronological order:
Thermal management - ducting first, then radiator
Tune spark (it's currently really conservative) and then fine tune fuel again
Replace funky fuji LSD with real Torsen
Still creeping so need to port wastegate more
Depower steering
Need new shocks - will enlist Concealer404 for help on Bilstein setup
EBC
Swap VTCS for VICS manifold
I'll try to post pictures of my ducting work when I get a chance to work on it, hopefully in the next few weeks.
I still have all stock cooling and A/C. My coolant temps while cruising on the interstate are getting up around 220F. When I do a few pulls, it gets up about the same temperature. When I'm in city traffic, it stays around 210F. Idling it goes down to like 205.
My first attempt at test ducting made a small difference; it kept it to about 215 during pulls. All I did was connect the bumper to the OEM splash guard, which is mostly intact. I'm guessing even if I make a sophisticated ducting structure and seal everything up tight, it still won't keep it below 200 under load. Plus, it'll still be over 200 when idling and in stop and go traffic.
So, before I go and buy a new radiator and at least one slim fan (the other stock fan should still fit), I just wanted to do a little sanity check.
A) Are the temperatures described above actually a concern for a street car? Am I making this a bigger deal than it needs to be?
B) Would a robust ducting setup help get the temperature down better than I'm thinking? Should I do that first?
C) Should I stop being a pansy, buy a damn radiator, AND build a robust ducting setup?
Last edited by Engi-ninja; 08-07-2018 at 09:42 AM.
New Koyo Hyper-V 37mm radiator (I have) or CFS from Supermiata (looks good) and ducting is next.
My build thread shows a fairly simple ducting made with plastic sheet. I did this same time as re-route, so I don't have separate data. However, after my little wreck, I ran a while without the ducting, or a bumper cover and CLT stayed below 210F (by conservative memory, perhaps only 205F). This would be with the Re-route and Koyo radiator.
New Koyo Hyper-V 37mm radiator (I have) or CFS from Supermiata (looks good) and ducting is next.
My build thread shows a fairly simple ducting made with plastic sheet. I did this same time as re-route, so I don't have separate data. However, after my little wreck, I ran a while without the ducting, or a bumper cover and CLT stayed below 210F (by conservative memory, perhaps only 205F). This would be with the Re-route and Koyo radiator.
I must be retarded, I can't find any pictures of the ducting in your build thread. I bought some of that rolled 1/8 inch plastic sheeting for the purpose; I'm trying to decide if I should buy a sheet metal brake to bend it, or cut it up and use angle brackets.
I guess I hadn't planned on doing the reroute because I have an NB2, and based on this discussion, there's some question as to whether or not it's necessary/effective/detrimental with the NB2 head gasket. Thoughts on this?
CFS was the radiator I was planning to go with. I need one low profile fan due to my intercooler return piping, and I was going to get the silicone intakes one because I'm cheap.
The fact that you were still above 200 even with a koyo probably confirms that I need to just do both (rad and ducting) in order to get back to reasonable temperatures.
Latest comments from Emilio is that any year, any head gasket, will be improved by re-route. Look Here
My apology on build thread. I don't have pics. I will see if I have some on phone. NOPE. Dang, I just got it put back together. I do like how it worked, so I'll pull the undertray off this evening and get some shots.
I did a combination of press brake, including making flanges on the side pieces, then used pop rivets made for plastic to join things together. Not real elaborate, but functional. I looped below FMIC by about 1.5" to get more air to the condenser / radiator per Sixshooter and others.
You can also heat with a torch, get it soft, and then form it. In fact, IIRC, some of the angles I put in with the press brake, I set with heat.
EDIT: At idle, you will always get to your fan settings, which, for me, turn on at 205.
Latest comments from Emilio is that any year, any head gasket, will be improved by re-route. Look Here
My apology on build thread. I don't have pics. I will see if I have some on phone. NOPE. Dang, I just got it put back together. I do like how it worked, so I'll pull the undertray off this evening and get some shots.
I did a combination of press brake, including making flanges on the side pieces, then used pop rivets made for plastic to join things together. Not real elaborate, but functional. I looped below FMIC by about 1.5" to get more air to the condenser / radiator per Sixshooter and others.
You can also heat with a torch, get it soft, and then form it. In fact, IIRC, some of the angles I put in with the press brake, I set with heat.
EDIT: At idle, you will always get to your fan settings, which, for me, turn on at 205.
Haha, I literally looked through it like 4 times thinking I was just missing the pictures. I'd appreciate some pics, though, if you have a chance to take some!
I stand corrected on the reroute; I daren't contradict Emilio :-) I'll add that to the list.
10-4 on the brake and heat...I don't have a torch, but I could probably pick up a HF heat gun for cheap.
Good point on the coolant fan temp setting; for some reason I was assuming it was set to stock, but given that my base tune came from vtechkiller, it's possible that it's set at 205. I'll check it when I get home.
I am trying to complete some things before my first track day, so I was not willing to take this off the car for better pictures, but I can explain what I did.
First picture is the bottom, and the main event. The lip to the left is at the bottom of the opening of the bumper cover. Then the part goes down, under the FMIC and on back. What is obscured by the under-tray is that there is a 90 bend up such that a flange goes between the A/C condenser and the radiator. It is about 3" tall. It guides the air to the bottom of the Radiator. It does not block any flow, as it does not extend past the bottom tank. It helps position, and also yields rigidity.
Then I cut the front most flange off the under-tray as the main body of the tray is not at the same level as the duct. 3 holes and push fasteners can be seen, tying the front of the under-tray roughly as it used to be to the stock air director.
You can also see the pop rivets that hold the sides onto the main ducting body.
Another shot of the pop rivets. The sides are mirror images of each other. They have flanges bent 90 to be able to mount to the main body. At the rear mounting location, they also have built in flanges (where the stud is that also mounts the under-tray).
(from the other side) The front mount was made with a simple angle piece riveted to each side. I could not find a way to integrate those.I made a little square piece to add thickness for the shoulder bolt that goes in that location (stock bolt).
I don't have anything on the top, other than some foam strip to seal the top of the radiator to the cross member. I also stuffed foam along the sides where needed to stop the air from going around the radiator.
08-27-2017, 05:34 PM
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