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I got old and lazy. Really the manual steering is a bit tougher then I liked when driving in parking lots and such. I drove a friends car with the EPS and was happy with it. So while I am in swapping over to DBW and a new ECU, I decided to go with the EPS on top of it all.
Out of curiosity, what DBW TB and pedal are you using?
Prepped for surgery Added a metal shaving evacuation device Initial cuts Stage 2 Smashy Smashy More cuts needed After breaking a chunk off and beating on it with the chisel longitudinally Finally able to pull it off with a pair of channel locks
I have another question. The 14point7 WB instructions say to connect the heater power to a source that's only active after the engine is running. They say this is so that the heater doesn't get the sensor hot, and it get's hit by some moisture coming through during cranking and temp shock the sensor. As far as I can tell, there's no such power source in a miata...everything I've seen is either directly to the battery, or if it's switched, it comes on as soon as the key turns. Does anyone else know of something I'm not aware of?
One thought I had is to wire just the heater power to a switch, and manually flip it on after the engine is running. I'm powering it through the dedicated power source in the MS3.
My other thought is that this is not actually a concern, and I should just leave it wired directly.
I have another question. The 14point7 WB instructions say to connect the heater power to a source that's only active after the engine is running. They say this is so that the heater doesn't get the sensor hot, and it get's hit by some moisture coming through during cranking and temp shock the sensor.
My other thought is that this is not actually a concern, and I should just leave it wired directly.
Anyone have any other thoughts/advice?
I’ve also read that you should wire it to avoid the cold shock thing.
However mine comes on with the key and has been this way for 13years and the thousands of ‘cold shocks’ it apparently would have received over that time don’t seem to have made any difference. It still works just fine for me..
im guessing it’s one of those things that sound correct in theory but in real life make stuff all difference.YMMV
I’ve also read that you should wire it to avoid the cold shock thing.
However mine comes on with the key and has been this way for 13years and the thousands of ‘cold shocks’ it apparently would have received over that time don’t seem to have made any difference. It still works just fine for me..
im guessing it’s one of those things that sound correct in theory but in real life make stuff all difference.YMMV
Thanks for the input! Do you have a 14point7 wb? Or something else?
I guess they're all Bosch sensors, so maybe it doesn't matter...unless the spartan heats it up faster or something...probably unlikely.
Last edited by Engi-ninja; 04-18-2023 at 07:08 PM.
Thanks for the input! Do you have a 14point7 wb? Or something else?
I guess they're all Bosch sensors, so maybe it doesn't matter...unless the spartan heats it up faster or something...probably unlikely.
My controller is a Innovate MTX-L but uses the same bosch o2 sensor, so is still relevant.
Almost all the guys in my club just wire them the same and I haven't heard of any having any issues related to cold shock.
I'm sure its just internet folklore spread by the manufacturers who are covering their butts for the 0.1% who do have issues that may have been caused from cold shock...
You can use a timer relay (look up 555 timer) to trigger the WB power a certain amount of time after switching on. Ideally I would use a spare ECU output activated by runtime (RPM>600), time delay and coolant temp to trigger a relay that powers up the WB.
My controller is a Innovate MTX-L but uses the same bosch o2 sensor, so is still relevant.
Almost all the guys in my club just wire them the same and I haven't heard of any having any issues related to cold shock.
I'm sure its just internet folklore spread by the manufacturers who are covering their butts for the 0.1% who do have issues that may have been caused from cold shock...
Yeah, this is most likely true. Sometimes my -----retentive tendencies get me hung up on the 0.1% stuff...it's probably therapeutic to let it go :-)
Originally Posted by HarryB
Ideally I would use a spare ECU output activated by runtime (RPM>600), time delay and coolant temp to trigger a relay that powers up the WB.
I like this idea; I may try to implement this at some point just to see if I can figure it out. I was thinking it would be cool if you could program the MS3 WB heater power, but your suggestion would be a way to effectively do the same thing.
Made some good progress on the rack. Last thing is to set the tension correctly...I think I'm going to borrow an in-lb torque wrench from Autozone, since all mine are ft-lb. Then I'll finally be ready to reinstall it! Getting excited about that. Got the pinion welded by miata-source. No binding at all, so it appears good! There are some notchy points in the bearing, but I'm not sure if it was already like that before I sent it to them. Hopefully I won't feel it at the steering wheel.
Good welding
Plugged holes with gasket maker
Putting the rack back together
I also made some progress on clearancing the downpipe. Last step it to finish deburring and paint it. Then I can finally reinstall the downpipe and check the Spartan 2! Prepped for surgery
Reference marks
Initial cuts with the sawzall...then realized I couldn't really do anything else with that tool
Tried drilling holes...my thought was I could bend it back and forth and break it off
Not enough throw to break it...
Got some carbide blades for my oscillating multi-cutter thingy, and it cut right through, though I missed getting all the holes.
Used a dremel to clean it up...in hindsight, it probably would have been faster and easier to do the whole job with the dremel...though it would have generated a lot more chips.
After I got the downpipe tightened up, I realized I misjudged the edge of the cutout... I was worried about the brake line being so close, so I hand filed it...it's better, I'm hoping it won't contact while cornering...we'll see Finally got around to disassembling the stock Bilsteins VMAXX Classics ready to go
Got the butterflies out of the intake manifold. Also cleaned up the transition between the casting cores and machined ports while I was in there. Probably a negligible improvement, but it only took a few minutes. It looks rough, but they're pretty smooth to the touch. Lower manifold out! Took forever to find all the nuts around the flange...
I just noticed all that crap in the water passage from sand paper and scotch bright pads...I'll have to see if I can wipe that out before I install the Qmax.
Cleaning off ALL the old gasket material is ESSENTIAL for the QMax block, I did mine with the engine still installed and it took me 3x attempts before the leaks stopped.
Any time you spend cleaning it ALL off ONCE is worth it since doing it 3 times takes 10X as long when you factor in getting everything installed, including coolant, to find if it leaks or not.
I'd read other installations and one recommended using a normal gasket instead of the Permatex sealant in the kit since it was easier and there should be no issues with "not enough or even sealant" by the time you mated the block to the engine securely (it's REALLY hard to do this with the engine still in the car).
THAT leaked and the thread that mentioned it subsequently reported the same thing (AFTER my 1st installation was complete :( ) - they switched to using the packaged Permatex sealant too!
I didn't think of removing the stud which would have helped.
Initially I just used touch to verify that all the old gasket material was removed, the 2nd attempt a small Android phone's camera, then I bought an endoscope for the 3rd attempt (mostly to get a good look around that stud).
Sorry for the delayed response, I have a 2 week old baby, so when I have to choose between working on the car, and talking about working on the car, I usually go with working on it :-)
Thanks for the input! Makes me feel a little bit better that I wasn't going OCD overboard, which I'd wondered about at the time. Removing the stud made a huge difference, I'd still be dicking around with it now if I hadn't thought of that. That first picture is what it looked like when I thought it was clean by touch, haha! I'm really glad I thought to snap a pic "just to make sure."
I just got everything back together and started it up a few minutes ago, and no leaks after a few minutes of running! I'm super relieved, not going to lie.
There's some kind of rpm-dependent intermittent screeching sound coming from the right side of the engine bay which DEFINITELY wasn't there before I took it apart. I'm really hoping it's the intake manifold vibrating against itself from the one 'longitudinal" bolt behind the throttle body that I missed to put back in. When I put pressure on the manifold with my hand while it was making the sound, the screeching changed a little or went away sometimes, so there's a good chance that what it is. I don't have time to take the throttle body back apart tonight, but I should be able to knock that out soon.
After that, it's just putting my shitty undertrash and front wheels back on, and it's time for test drive! I also need to load a much more rich tune (in boost) to account for the butterflies being removed...
I forgot to mention, I also did the reroute with the entire intake manifold out, which made access to the back of the head much easier than otherwise. Especially for getting the adaptor back there without wiping all the sealant off.
04-06-2023, 11:12 AM
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