Faelflora breaks his promise, time to part out car. GIT THE SAWZALL!
#3461
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Updates.
Put fuel system back together. AN fittings are a pain in the *** to tighten properly. Too much and you fucky upy the threads. Too little and leak.
Replaced a meth line that had a pinhole leak that bukakke'd Soviet. Snapped a nozzle in the process (the Aquamist nozzles are dinky as fucky) but it's ok because I have a pile of them.
Found the exhaust leak. The vband flange at the turbine was misaligned. Was surprisingly unsooty for the sound of the leak though.
Started car up. Set FPR to 60psi with no vac, 50psi or so with vac source. BTW I idle at about 1200RPM because it keeps me from stalling as much with the twin ceramic clutch.
Was ready for a test drive, but first checked the vband flange. Strangely, still heard exhaust leak.
saw a strand of header wrap flapping around.. stuck hand behind manifold and found... THE OTHER EXHAUST LEAK. I have had many an exhaust leak in my time and this one is a big 'un. Gonna have to be fixeded before redyno...
Note that I do not blame ARTech in any way. My turbo weighs exactly 50lbs. QSV weighs about 4lb, intake 3lbs, downpipe about 15lbs or so, plus exhaust is attached too. That is A LOT of weight. Plus, as you read above, high boost means high retard. That means A LOT of combustion is taking place in the manifold, turbine, and downpipe. Which means a lot of stress on the metal. Note that this is mild sched 40 biggie wall thickness.
Anyways, another day another problem.
Put fuel system back together. AN fittings are a pain in the *** to tighten properly. Too much and you fucky upy the threads. Too little and leak.
Replaced a meth line that had a pinhole leak that bukakke'd Soviet. Snapped a nozzle in the process (the Aquamist nozzles are dinky as fucky) but it's ok because I have a pile of them.
Found the exhaust leak. The vband flange at the turbine was misaligned. Was surprisingly unsooty for the sound of the leak though.
Started car up. Set FPR to 60psi with no vac, 50psi or so with vac source. BTW I idle at about 1200RPM because it keeps me from stalling as much with the twin ceramic clutch.
Was ready for a test drive, but first checked the vband flange. Strangely, still heard exhaust leak.
saw a strand of header wrap flapping around.. stuck hand behind manifold and found... THE OTHER EXHAUST LEAK. I have had many an exhaust leak in my time and this one is a big 'un. Gonna have to be fixeded before redyno...
Note that I do not blame ARTech in any way. My turbo weighs exactly 50lbs. QSV weighs about 4lb, intake 3lbs, downpipe about 15lbs or so, plus exhaust is attached too. That is A LOT of weight. Plus, as you read above, high boost means high retard. That means A LOT of combustion is taking place in the manifold, turbine, and downpipe. Which means a lot of stress on the metal. Note that this is mild sched 40 biggie wall thickness.
Anyways, another day another problem.
Last edited by Faeflora; 08-17-2012 at 02:56 PM.
#3466
How are your fuel pumps wired? Do you have a beefy enough power supply to them? As the graph shows above, the current draw really jumps over 100psi (~7.5bar). At ~115psi those pumps are drawing approximately 16 amps each.
If lowering your base fuel pressure doesn't work I'd consider checking the power delivery to your pumps. Maybe even try to measure it during a dyno run and make sure you get a constant 12v to both pumps.
Just a thought...
If lowering your base fuel pressure doesn't work I'd consider checking the power delivery to your pumps. Maybe even try to measure it during a dyno run and make sure you get a constant 12v to both pumps.
Just a thought...
Last edited by Efini~FC3S; 08-17-2012 at 04:59 PM. Reason: where was that "t"?
#3468
For those questioning higher than stock fuel pressure:
ID1000's actually LIKE higher than normal fuel pressure. In fact, it helps with atomization and "cleaner" more efficient burn. So 70-90 isn't bad at all.
And iirc NB's run 60psi stock vs 45 for NA's. Don't quote me on that tho
ID1000's actually LIKE higher than normal fuel pressure. In fact, it helps with atomization and "cleaner" more efficient burn. So 70-90 isn't bad at all.
And iirc NB's run 60psi stock vs 45 for NA's. Don't quote me on that tho
fuel pressure is more for spray imo, because flow is rated at the injector
#3469
I run 60psi at idle and the fpr goes to 70 with 460s @ 10psi in the miata, and I am at a half-bandaid w/ wideband and overboost protection. and I get 13.6 full boost and 12.5 idle ( a wee rich, i need a MS again)
fuel pressure is more for spray imo, because flow is rated at the injector
fuel pressure is more for spray imo, because flow is rated at the injector
You of all people have been here long enough to know how terrible band aids are. C'mon now
#3470
I run 60psi at idle and the fpr goes to 70 with 460s @ 10psi in the miata, and I am at a half-bandaid w/ wideband and overboost protection. and I get 13.6 full boost and 12.5 idle ( a wee rich, i need a MS again)
fuel pressure is more for spray imo, because flow is rated at the injector
fuel pressure is more for spray imo, because flow is rated at the injector
#3471
For those questioning higher than stock fuel pressure:
ID1000's actually LIKE higher than normal fuel pressure. In fact, it helps with atomization and "cleaner" more efficient burn. So 70-90 isn't bad at all.
And iirc NB's run 60psi stock vs 45 for NA's. Don't quote me on that tho
ID1000's actually LIKE higher than normal fuel pressure. In fact, it helps with atomization and "cleaner" more efficient burn. So 70-90 isn't bad at all.
And iirc NB's run 60psi stock vs 45 for NA's. Don't quote me on that tho
#3473
How are your fuel pumps wired? Do you have a beefy enough power supply to them? As the graph shows above, the current draw really jumps over 100psi (~7.5bar). At ~115psi those pumps are drawing approximately 16 amps each.
If lowering your base fuel pressure doesn't work I'd consider checking the power delivery to your pumps. Maybe even try to measure it during a dyno run and make sure you get a constant 12v to both pumps.
Just a thought...
If lowering your base fuel pressure doesn't work I'd consider checking the power delivery to your pumps. Maybe even try to measure it during a dyno run and make sure you get a constant 12v to both pumps.
Just a thought...
#3474
I run 60psi at idle and the fpr goes to 70 with 460s @ 10psi in the miata, and I am at a half-bandaid w/ wideband and overboost protection. and I get 13.6 full boost and 12.5 idle ( a wee rich, i need a MS again)
fuel pressure is more for spray imo, because flow is rated at the injector
fuel pressure is more for spray imo, because flow is rated at the injector
13.6 afr in full boost?
Flow is rated at the injector AT certain psi.. commonly ~40psi.
You better believe that the same injector will flow A LOT more at say 60 or 80psi.
Take a water bottle with the button cap. Open it up and hold it to yoru face. Squeeze it a bit... Then squeeze it as hard as you can. That's what pressure does.
#3475
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 8,682
Total Cats: 130
getting 14.4 volts to them would be even better. I havent heard about it on these cars but on a lot of other cars they're do a rewire of the pump so it pulls power with some big, like 14ga wire straight from the alternator or main fuse box to the pump relay and then to the pump. I did notice that our stock wiring is only some little 18ga when I had to cut the melted bits out of my harness for the fp relay.
Btw my aystem voltage off the NA alternator is like 13-13.5v
#3476
Hyper?
13.6 afr in full boost?
Flow is rated at the injector AT certain psi.. commonly ~40psi.
You better believe that the same injector will flow A LOT more at say 60 or 80psi.
Take a water bottle with the button cap. Open it up and hold it to yoru face. Squeeze it a bit... Then squeeze it as hard as you can. That's what pressure does.
13.6 afr in full boost?
Flow is rated at the injector AT certain psi.. commonly ~40psi.
You better believe that the same injector will flow A LOT more at say 60 or 80psi.
Take a water bottle with the button cap. Open it up and hold it to yoru face. Squeeze it a bit... Then squeeze it as hard as you can. That's what pressure does.
As for injectors, pressure only flows to a certain point, then it gets restricted quite a bit.
#3480
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 8,682
Total Cats: 130
I was very industrious today.
Among other things, I pulled the manifold off the car and unbolted everything. It took about two hours and I wasn't working slowly. Just a lot of awkward nuts and bolts.
I was very sad to take it off, but oh well. I found the crack and it really is quite a big one. It goes 3/4 away around the collector flange.
My build thread is infamous for its lack of pictures so let me try to make up for it. Here are pics of my hotside in all of its glory. I am being serious, it really is quite glorious. It just needs to prove itself. While all the parts were off, I inspected them. Turbo is, of course, totally fine and happy. This Turbo is the honey badger of my build. Quick Spool Valve is fine and dandy too. Good job Sound Performance. Tial WG is just fine too.
Yes, the assembly is as a whole, very very heavy. I am not sure what ARTech will do. I think it definitely may need some major major gussetting? I am not convinced about the efficacy of a crane. Maybe the whole thing should be dipped in cast iron?
Anyways, pics. I know you guys love pics for failure analysis and so do I. This failure root cause it pretty obvious.
Among other things, I pulled the manifold off the car and unbolted everything. It took about two hours and I wasn't working slowly. Just a lot of awkward nuts and bolts.
I was very sad to take it off, but oh well. I found the crack and it really is quite a big one. It goes 3/4 away around the collector flange.
My build thread is infamous for its lack of pictures so let me try to make up for it. Here are pics of my hotside in all of its glory. I am being serious, it really is quite glorious. It just needs to prove itself. While all the parts were off, I inspected them. Turbo is, of course, totally fine and happy. This Turbo is the honey badger of my build. Quick Spool Valve is fine and dandy too. Good job Sound Performance. Tial WG is just fine too.
Yes, the assembly is as a whole, very very heavy. I am not sure what ARTech will do. I think it definitely may need some major major gussetting? I am not convinced about the efficacy of a crane. Maybe the whole thing should be dipped in cast iron?
Anyways, pics. I know you guys love pics for failure analysis and so do I. This failure root cause it pretty obvious.